Greenstang

Round Die Chips are not uncommon. They start off as a pin hole in the die and through continuous striking, it slowly enlarges the hole into a round shape.  

Could be a small die chip
Also welcome to Forum

What are you seeing as errors? Please explain so we know what to look for.
 All I see is staining and minor damage.

What are you seeing as errors? Please explain so we know what to look for.
 All I see is staining and minor damage.

It is possible for a counterfeit, contemporary or not, to be made from silver, same as there are many counterfeit  sovereigns made from gold out there.
Even taking into account variations in older coins, there are still areas that can be looked at in determining if it is genuine or not. I will try to explain what I look for in determining the originality of a coin.
One of the first places I look at is the date. For some reason counterfeiters cannot seem to get this right. Looking at the photos, you can see a definite difference in the style and location of the counterfeit compared to the genuine one.
Another good place to look is the location of the peremiter lettering in relationship to the devises .Notice the difference of the location of the "R" in relationship to the ribbon, not even close.
There is usually a difference in facial features, especially the eyes, they never seem to get them right.
The style of the lettering is another good place to look. Notice the difference in the top of the "T" and the difference in the thickness of some of the lettering.
Sometimes there are slight differences in the design itself See how the end of the ribbon one coin points up while on the other it points on an angle. Also see how the wreath on one coin has a gap between it and the rim while the other coin has the wreath almost touching.
These are just  some of the things to look for but the best way when checking for counterfeits is to compare your coin with a known genuine coin.
 

Just found this interesting article on where some of the 2 real counterfeits were produced.

It is possible for a counterfeit, contemporary or not, to be made from silver, same as there are many counterfeit  sovereigns made from gold out there.
Even taking into account variations in older coins, there are still areas that can be looked at in determining if it is genuine or not. I will try to explain what I look for in determining the originality of a coin.
One of the first places I look at is the date. For some reason counterfeiters cannot seem to get this right. Looking at the photos, you can see a definite difference in the style and location of the counterfeit compared to the genuine one.
Another good place to look is the location of the peremiter lettering in relationship to the devises .Notice the difference of the location of the "R" in relationship to the ribbon, not even close.
There is usually a difference in facial features, especially the eyes, they never seem to get them right.
The style of the lettering is another good place to look. Notice the difference in the top of the "T" and the difference in the thickness of some of the lettering.
Sometimes there are slight differences in the design itself See how the end of the ribbon one coin points up while on the other it points on an angle. Also see how the wreath on one coin has a gap between it and the rim while the other coin has the wreath almost touching.
These are just  some of the things to look for but the best way when checking for counterfeits is to compare your coin with a known genuine coin.
 

Tomorrow when I get time, I will do a side by side to show some of the differences on both sides to prove it is counterfeit.        
I don’t state that a coin is counterfeit unless I am 100% sure. I have reported and had removed by eBay hundreds of coins and never had one rejected yet.

No evaluation needed, its a counterfeit.
Please shoot your photos head on. shooting on an angle distorts the features.

I agree with Die Deterioration. See the flow lines close to the rim which has also affected the mm.

I bought the same one for my granddaughter who collects coins.
That is one of the '20 for 20'' series the RCM issued. You paid $20.00 for a $20.00 silver coin.
I think they have discontinued the series now.

Go by the Eagle on the reverse.
If there are four feathers left of the perch, it is Type 1
If there are three feathers left of the perch, it is Type 2

Two more I can think of are the 1943 copper which should have been steel and the 1982D Small Date which should have been copper plated zinc. All three are rare and hard to find.

"Should I send it in for grading"
No. That is a soft Maple Leaf.
It is only the Hard Maple Leaf that has any value.

"Should I send it in for grading"
No. That is a soft Maple Leaf.
It is only the Hard Maple Leaf that has any value.

Sorry but we will need a full picture of each side of your coin before we can evaluate it.

Sorry but we will need a full picture of each side of your coin before we can evaluate it.

Sorry but we will need a full picture of each side of your coin before we can evaluate it.

Sorry but we will need a full picture of each side of your coin before we can evaluate it.

Looks like a small die chip.

Welcome to the Forum
A rule of thumb for grading is if a coin is worth $150.00 or more, it is financially feasible to have it graded. There are other reasons though such as personnel preferences like using a coin in a Registry Set, wanting protection for the coin etc. 

Welcome to the Forum
A rule of thumb for grading is if a coin is worth $150.00 or more, it is financially feasible to have it graded. There are other reasons though such as personnel preferences like using a coin in a Registry Set, wanting protection for the coin etc. 

Even that is sometimes debateable. Where do you draw the line between a Brass or Bronze coin.
You need a  XRF test to tell for sure.

3.11g is the target weight on a Lincoln copper cent. There is an acceptable tolerance of  .12 g so anything between 2.99g and 3.23g is acceptable. All of your coins fall within this range.

There were hundreds of millions of each state coin produced so unless they are in high MS condition, they are only worth face value.                                               As far as popularity, it probably depends on which state you live in. I would just keep the best one of each series and spend the rest.
Your 2001D quarter is just badly damaged.