Greenstang

To give a grade, the photos have to be clear so that all the detail can be seen. Can’t really tell anything from photos supplied.

They are all Large Date. You got it correct on your previous post now your back to being wrong again.

Correct except it is called a Large Date, not a big date.

Agree, of the 17 1982 cents you posted, the only small date is the one in the middle of the 4th group.

Powermad5000 You were close, you had the right words but in the wrong order, it is “ Progressive Indirect Die Transfer”. and is a form of Die Deterioration. I just call it “ghosting “ as it is easier to remember and not as long to type

That is what is called a “Texas cent”. It has been intentionally hammered between two pieces of leather. As the zinc core expands, the copper plating falls off and leaves you with an oversized zinc cent. Not uncommon and only has value as a novelty item.

Even if it was a die clash, which it’s not, you would be spending about $60.00 to get it certified when it would be worth a couple of dollars at the best in that condition.

I hope that $1000.00 is a typo and not what you are asking for it, it’s worth 50 cents at the most.

Hard to tell from picture, is that mark raised or incuse?

Environmental toning. It happens depending on the circumstances under which they were stored.

Welcome to the Chat Board That is a business strike and is also not a FBL but is a nice album filler.

It does have a population of 23 and $17,500 is the NGC listed price. Trouble with auctions are if you get two people with deep pockets wanting the same coin, then this will drive the price up as they bid against each other. By the same token if only one person is interested, he can put up a lowball price and if no challenges him, then he gets a bargain. It sometimes is a crapshoot with auctions. It is the same with eBay, depends on how many are interested. The only thing you can do is put up a high starting price but then this will drive away some bidders. To answer the second part of your question, here again we will need more information.

It would help if you describe what coin you are referring to and would be even better if. you were to supply pictures of the coin and holder.

Welcome to the forum Save your money by not sending it in. It would just come back as a detailed ( damage ) coin. As Sandon states, there is no way this happened during the striking of the coin. It doesn’t really matter how it was done, damage is damage. You are right when you say it is probably one of a kind, most damaged coins are.

Not an error of any kind. It is just damage, exactly what caused it doesnt really matter. Damage is damage4.

It is possible that they occured at the mint but they are not errors, they are called "bag marks" as they most likely happened when the coins were put in bags for shipping. It is only an error if it happens during the actual striking of the planchet, once the coin has been ejected, anything that happens to it after that is considered damage.

This is probably the most asked question on any coin forum. If you are looking for a Small Date 1982D copper cent, then the correct answer. is don’t waste your time, you won’t find one, spend your energy elsewear.

Yes, a common 1982D zinc cent with billions of them minted. It is in nice shape and would make a good album filler.

Shygirl2020. You should really start your own post instead of piggybacking on someone else’s, this only causes confusion As far as your coins go, there is noway that could have happened during the striking of either coin. They are both just damaged and worth face value.

Not sure what you see wrong, it is a normal Mint Mark but the 5 has a Die Chip.

At first I thought it may have been double struck but looking at the new photo, a double struck would not have the bubbly fields seen on the lower left. I want cannot figure how this would happen during the striking of the coin so by default is PMD ( Post Minting Damage)

It is best to post each coin on it’s own thread with the proper heading. This will avoid confusion. Post a clear photo of each side of the coin. with a closeup of the area of concern and state what specifically what your question is. Looking forward to your photos ( we like pictures here)

Welcome to the Chat Board, hope you enjoy your new hobby. Would you please take another photo of the obverse but with less glare ( like the reverse photo) so that we can see the details more clearly. Also it would to crop your photos, this will make them larger.

Josh Lemons Please start a new thread when posting about a completely different coin from the original. This not only causes confusion, but anyone looking at the headings would not even know this post was here.

Welcome to the forum Agree with @Sandon Known as a magicians coin, we see these periodically on this site. Only value is as a novelty coin.