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Posts posted by powermad5000
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I went to the World's Fair of Money last year here in Chicago and I described it as CSNS on steroids. I would say if there was ANYTHING specific that you were looking for to complete a set it was there somewhere. I also found several dealers willing to engage in reasonable bartering and deal making which helped me to complete my mission there reasonably quickly. I will definitely go again.
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On 5/21/2023 at 2:00 PM, bobbyboshay said:
I accept your apology
What do I need to apologize for? I highly respect @Coinbuf @Sandon @EagleRJO @J P M @Hoghead515 @VKurtB @RWB @ldhair @Just Bob and many other highly knowledgeable and well educated members on here who I am learning from despite my 45+ years in this hobby.
On 5/21/2023 at 2:00 PM, bobbyboshay said:why would you say I don’t own any of my coins I post
Because you don't tell us that you do own them. This post began with 1925 S Peace Dollar. No comment. No information. No question. Perhaps it would be better to start the post off with "My 1925 S Peace Dollar".
On 5/21/2023 at 2:00 PM, bobbyboshay said:you talk about things you don’t know about
This has never been me. Ever.
On 5/21/2023 at 2:00 PM, bobbyboshay said:you are commenting to be negative and being hateful
I would say 100% of people on here and that know me in real life would disagree.
On 5/21/2023 at 2:00 PM, bobbyboshay said:who cares about anything in life when you only here on this earth 🌍 for a short time
I care.
On 5/21/2023 at 2:00 PM, bobbyboshay said:so get out of your feelings
?????
On 5/21/2023 at 2:00 PM, bobbyboshay said:remember the coins can’t talk
I agree. They cannot. And moving forward, I choose to not comment on yours. I wish you the best of luck and many blessings.
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Very nice coin!
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Dear members of the forum,
Do we have time to look at coins with no proposed question on what are possibly random coins that the OP does not even own? I feel like I am being tapped for basic self grading info that I spent the years of time and did the work to hone and learn on my own. A 1925 S Peace Dollar is not a key date in the series. While I have no problem with helping answer a question, I have limited time to be on this forum to answer legitimate questions. I also am aware of a nasty interaction between the OP and @Coinbuf which has me not inclined to comment on the OP's posts.
- bobbyboshay and Coinbuf
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CSNS is a close drive for me. About an hour. I've gone there almost a decade now to buy raw coins. I typically am able to shop out quality raw coins on a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of value. Anytime I can buy a coin worth twice what I paid for it is good. One year, I did score a pair of MS 65 FBL Franklins for $12 and $18 respectively so that worked out very well. I have made out on some Peace and Morgans as well as a handful of Washingtons and Mercs. This year, I ventured into the $100-$250 price range on some raw Morgans to fill some holes in the set so I will have to wait to see how those pan out. It was just a letdown that there wasn't much raw worth buying (and I did look but found a lot of cleaned specimens or overpriced flips).
I went to the World's Fair of Money for the first time last year, and I didn't make it through the whole show because I had a mission and completed it, but I don't remember seeing much in the raw. It seemed like a slab fest. I will attend again this year and spend more time walking as I will have no specific goal in mind to tend to during the visit.
I suppose I would entertain looking at some of the big auction house coins but none of my sets are at that point that I need those last few that might only be found there (plus I am so cheap and will still growl at the buyers premiums).
I am going to be very interested in the return box of the roughly 38 coins I submitted at CSNS. This is also the first time I got an email about an extra charge for a tier upgrade for a coin that I apparently severely undergraded as they felt it to be in the next upper grading tier. The box opening is going to be more exciting than the CSNS show...LOL!
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I have an 1875-S in MS and looking at the reverse, the coin you presented has the same die crack traveling across and through AMERICA. I am not sure whether a scanned coin would be able to pick up the detail in that die crack, so I am willing to say the coin in question is legit. You might just be seeing the eagle's head as "different" due to the amount of wear on it. I should have pics of my MS to put here so you can compare.
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I am in agreement with @EagleRJO. If you got that offer, I would take the $2K and run! For that price, I would let whoever put up the offer deal with trying to get the coin out without damaging it, and you would have the $$$$ in the event the coin isn't genuine to begin with and is maybe just a replica. Assuming the coin cannot be removed without damaging it, I would think you are ahead money wise in the whole deal if you accept the 2K.
- Fenntucky Mike and EagleRJO
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It is possible that if freed from the onyx (somehow) (being it is stone I might try to carefully break the stone if you don't care about saving the onyx) if I am not mistaken, NCS could be able to remove the glue residue if it were glued to the stone.
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I believe that is the pointed 9 variety, but I am not sure if that would even tickle the fancy of a Roosy collector even if it were in MS. Once it was discovered that it was quite common, it lost desirability and might now only be requested on a TPG label by a hardcore Roosy collector putting together a type set or registry set.
On the other note in this thread, the time you are spending on your project simply cannot be measured. I guarantee you will look back on it some day with cherished memories.
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Definitely post mint damage. It almost looks to me like someone put it in a lathe the way the reverse has those grooves in it. Does the outer rim have marks on it possibly where it was gripped by the fingers of a lathe? In either case, it was not created this way by the mint, and has no value to a Lincoln Wheat collector.
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I guess what I was trying to say in my earlier post and didn't convey the message properly, is that hairlines are not necessarily just an indication of a coin having been cleaned, but could also be caused by improper handling of a coin with dirty fingers rubbing on the surface. This secondary condition would be better described as "damage" hairlines from improper handling.
If the graders determined the hairlines on this Morgan were not from cleaning, but improper handling, then that could be why they straight graded it. I know NGC will give a details grade for scratches, but I think that is given for actual gouges, and not just hairlines from bad handling practices.
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I don't see gunk inside the P of Pluribus, or the inside the two 8's, and the hardest spot to try to get it out from if it was cleaned would be the insides of the CC's. I didn't see it in those spots when I first looked at it and I didn't see it in the closeups. Besides, not everybody's hands are clean when they touch coins. What if someone with dirty hands was rubbing the coin between his fingers out of boredom one random day to put all those hairlines in it? I am going to hold to my position that the coin was not cleaned.
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Either that or set in some type of clasp as in to make jewelry (a necklace for example).
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Not an error. If anything, there would have to be a substantial amount of them minted with the same line through the 7 for it to be attributed as a variety. Variety, not error.
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The color looks normal to me as does the wear for a circulated Morgan. I am not sure if what you are considering as hairlines in the fields is nothing more than bag contact marks as would be found on a coin in a bag that happened to be moved and handled a lot more than other bags. I do have some low end MS specimens in my slabbed Morgans that have a lot of marks in fields which I would think are from overhandling of the bag they were in.
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Based upon the denticles, and more blaringly the size of the wording on the reverse versus the size of the letters on a legit coin is telling me it is fake. Regardless of the size of the mintmark, the lettering on the dies was all the same regardless of which mint struck the coin.
It also has an unnatural "sheen" to it.
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We need clear, cropped photos of both the obverse and reverse in order to give you the best possible advice.
That said, the only coin you have there that could be worth anything is the Proof Ike. The 1964 Kennedy half is too common, and the Walkers would need to be in fantastic shape just to get a moderate price of $30-$40. The Kennedy looks lightly circulated (AU) and the Walkers are in very bad shape (VG and details grades for both).
The ONLY way the Proof Ike is worth anything is if you took a big chance on submitting it in the original holder it is currently in and having it graded and returning back as a PF 69 UC (NGC has graded zero of these in this year at PF 70 UC). Then it would be worth a price guide value of $80 with a realistic value of around $60-$65. The problem is it will cost you more to submit it hoping to get that grade than you would get back for selling it graded.
I am guessing the dealer is willing to shoot you a price for all of the coins just to get the Ike and may be able to make it a part of a submission on his end so he can have it graded (cheaper than you could) and put it in his case with a good markup when it returns.
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On 5/13/2023 at 9:17 AM, GoldFinger1969 said:
I'm gonna run a pool on these forums with an Over/Under on how many times Sandon has to clarify some misguided coin belief and post his links like he does above !!
With all the YouTube coin experts out there nowadays, I'll take the over
The OP's coin is suffering from some mild environmental damage. I am thinking the plating was bubbled after the coin was struck and before the environment got to the reverse. For the OP, there are still tons of these cents in circulation from 1983 on which you will see various levels of the plating over zinc which has bubbled up, cracked, pock marked, pocketed, or in some extreme cases has partially fallen off. None of these conditions meet the criteria for a mint error.
As for finding errors in change, I have in my 45+ years of collecting have found no circulating error coins in pocket change coins pre 2000. I have found three post 2000 struck through errors (of course submitted by me and certified as errors by NGC). That said, however, I know the difference between physical damage and an actual struck through coin. Three may sound like a lot but they are not common to find in cash register change (I welcome coins in change and I inspect both sides of every coin that passes through my hands before they get thrown back into the wild). What always astounds me is the number of sellers and the ridiculous quantity of supposed "error" coins for sale on eBay that simply are just NOT errors at all, and are being sold by sellers who either have simply no knowledge whatsoever of numismatics even in the most general sense, or who are sellers who have decided to take extreme full advantage of new collectors trying to enter the hobby with their limited knowledge and will simply get robbed blind by these unscrupulous sellers.
- J P M and GoldFinger1969
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I am not so sure about a lamination error on the reverse seeing there is varying levels of environmental damage, I would lean more towards post mint damage to the reverse. As for the 7, IF that were to be created by a die gouge, it still would not be classified as a mint error but would rather have to be attributed as a variety by a numismatic expert panel with other samples of the same attribution also known to collectors.
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Welcome to the forum!
Clear, cropped photos could possibly help in the investigation of your claim. Are you supposing that it is magnetic, or have you put a strong magnet to it and coin sticks to the magnet? Also for this case, the weight of the coin in grams to two decimal places would also be helpful. 1975 D Lincoln Memorial Reverse cents were made of brass with a weight of 3.11 grams +/- .02 grams of mint tolerance. Hopefully you have some way to weigh the coin.
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On 5/10/2023 at 10:25 PM, Hinkle said:
With the modern coins they we're single pressed.
To be specific, the dies were made using the single squeeze method. You presented good photos to check out the coin, but I am leaning towards mechanical doubling as I can't find any evidence on the rest of the coin to tell me otherwise. Due to the high speeds of modern coin presses, there are a lot of instances of mechanical doubling and it is well within mint tolerances.
Unless someone else sees something I don't, MD is my consensus.
1943 copper I know everyone is very serious when it comes to this coin and its rarity so to let everyone know I'm not trying to be funny I really wanted advice from the right place that's why I'm here
in Newbie Coin Collecting Questions
Posted
Hopefully this helps you see the 2 better. I could see the bottom of the two faintly in both of the provided photos. The following pic is of a 1942 from NGC Coin Explorer.