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I agree. Obviously lighting is very important HOWEVER the orientation of the coin (rotation & degree of tilt off the horizontal) is equally important as each of these three things can be used to hide imperfections on the coin. I can change the orientation of the coin, the light' or the camera. I cannot believe everyone posting does not know this and INSISTS that the coin remain flat.. I have a plan using quality images of the entire coin to stump the "experts." If it does not work using a digital camera I will admit to being an ignorant old fool who knows absolutely nothing about digital photography. BTW, I proudly admit when I'm wrong and learn something new that changes my position - ON ANYTHING! I also answer direct questions. Otherwise it is just and NOT A DISCUSSION. I wish everyone did the same.

I am constantly frustrated by the way you can twist things in your own mind enough to attribute absolute nonsense to my comments with your "clairvoyant " umptions. It has nothing to do with me or my realistic outlook on life. I'm going to make this as simple as I can for you. I have noticed that many folks in the younger generations have lost the "edge." Technology plus the dumbing-down of the American Education System is is just one cause. The simple comprehension of the written word, even occurring on these forums by some members is an example. Computers have taken the place of spelling and math. The art of hand writing is mostly gone. In emergencies, folks are unprepared. Why store necessities when you can shop for them every day. With those examples, who would wish to live in a time before computers, cell phones, HDTV, digital cameras, huge tennis racquets and golf drivers, frozen pizza, NGC chat forums, etc. You should get the idea by now. I'm not against most change. I don't wish to crank my automobile to start it. Sorry, this response is no longer simple. This is better: A computer has allowed me to authenticate coins that formerly would have been held for weeks until we took a trip to a museum. So YES, I consider a computer a CRUTCH. A very helpful crutch and one I need and would not throw away; nevertheless, a crutch. Ditto for modern cameras that make taking photos child's play. Even more relevant to this forum, I consider TPG to be a CRUTCH. A good and necessary crutch for the ignorant. These "crutches" were not around when I started collecting.

I like swiss watches and women.

99.8% of the images I take are done under florescent light. It is not the best for photographs but it is best to show the coin's surface at higher power.

...and the software (CRUTCH) can be used to manipulate the final image. Before digital, I found that the best images - prize wining images - could be done by a rookie (me) by just running a bunch of film through one of my cameras (usually a motorized Nikon F-2AS).

Laughter is the best medicine! No, I will not leave my desk, "book" time or give a coin to them to be imaged (unless color or the entire coin is needed) for the reasons given several times previously. Please tell us more!

I'm writing this with the biggest grin on my face - you've got all of us laughing around here. Thanks kid. Please, Please, Please! Stop letting what appears to be jealous hatred cloud your basic ENGLISH COMPREHENSION SKILLS. Just because you are totally uninformed about what is going around you in real life I HAVE NEVER QUESTIONED your numismatic photography skills. CLEAR? UNDERSTAND? You have challenged me to take a photo. I am going to use MY COMPANY'S CAMERA, Light box and setup to photograph a coin. I'M DOING IT . Understand now? I'm putting the coin under the camera, adjusting the light, and cameral settings and I'M TAKING THE IMAGE. You don't get to modify your smug and stupid challenge. Changing your request is asking me to hit a fastball with a ping pong racquet. Shame on you. Furthermore anymore "snowflake" whining and you'll get nothing more from me. PS Photographing a coin is EASY USING A DIGITAL CRUTCH with the right setup! Everyone is doing it (including you) and posting images. Best of all, I'll bet most of those folks can READ and comprehend a post.

It is not damage!!! I thought some kind of die fatigue too. Due to the responses I now wonder if the planchet was not annealed properly and the upset mill did this.

You may have the answer. The new cameras don't tolerate tipping. I'll see for myself next week.

I'm not interested in proving you wrong. I'm interested in showing you in particular how to respond to a DIRECT QUESTION! Therefore, I will take a full image of a coin for you just his one time next week because as I posted before, our folks are busy using our equipment to take images for customers. Also - the main reason - what I usually show does not need a full coin image, color correction, one of the edge, etc. PS I NEVER CLAIMED to take professional quality photographs of coins. I have had three of my photographs on display in a Georgetown, DC Gallery in the 1980's. That was before many folks with a digital camera CRUTCH were born. The hundreds of images in my columns over the decades don't count as professional quality.

You have always answered any direct question I've addressed to you. This part of my post was directed to a young man who has NEVER responded to a direct question from me. Unfortunately, his posts are too funny to put him on "ignore" and the guy is trying to sound informed. As for MauleMalls... He joined the other guy.

History tends to repeat itself. I'll bet you didn't know that when the major TPGS's started to "detail" coins they are doing the exact same "technical grading" that we did about fifteen years before.

Your wish: 我希望我能讀中文 My reply: 我希望我也能讀中文

A final question: There are about six of you posting on this thread. Has any one of you ever tipped a coin while imaging it? Yet you know it does not work. Interesting.

Your post "smacks" of something "not right." First, you attack the professionals at TPGS for playing guessing games. I'm accused of preaching and having infinite numismatic knowledge, yet you have never answered a direct question so I'm not going to ask you to confirm what it looks like is going on. In spite of your attitude and shortcomings, I will not "ignore" you. you are helping to revive the old girl. Today must be the most active day in years. What I will do is take your suggestion and see if anyone here can adjust the white balance on the camera I use.

Gale Spring, Adjunct Associate Professor of Scientific Photography at RMIT University in Melbourne, Australia demonstrates a method used to provide even lighting for a highly reflective object. Hummm... BTW, most suggestions from members are valid: Proper color, whole coin, sharp focus, etc. I have not disagreed with any of them (except tipping a coin in some cases). Unfortunately, folks will just have to use the images I choose to give them. End of discussion.

Tipping objects in the light is a common practice of professional photographers. I didn't come up with that "tip" all by myself. I was taught that in a photography class in 1982. Perhaps you should read a book on Photography.

Gee, Wally, I'll guess you'll need to ask "someone" who knows. Only kidding, You have asked a great question. There is a great explanation of color progression on the Internet. As for my images, sorry. I do the best I can.

This is the "halo effect" on a buffed coin. Note the area around the relief where the wheel did not reach.

SELF EDIT Yes. Some would call me a coin doctor. I've been cleaning coins professionally since 1972 when I worked for the ANA and at the four TPGS I've been with since then. I helped start NCS at NGC. What I do is actually called coin conservation because when I do it, your ilk cannot tell and the coins are preserved for future generations. It is not very funny when a English comprehension challenged individual makes an ignorant statement so I'll try again. This is an example showing one of the characteristics attributed to NT. It has been given many names over the last fifty years. One prominent numismatist called it "Draft Toning." The commonly used term at this time is "pull-away." The term "halo" is used when a relief device on a coin has a different color or surface around it producing a "Halo Effect." This is an especially common characteristic when coins are mechanically cleaned. One member noticed the "halo" of yellow color around the "H" on the 8 Rls. This is a chemical "Halo."

Well, this thread has been dragged into the toilet by the uninformed. As posted by others, the coin is 100% AT. The clues include the wrong color progression, vivid colors, and halos completely around the letters. I PERSONALLY toned it as most students would be attracted to its color. The coin was left in a warm solution of a common chemical for several hours. Since the experiment, the coin has been returned to its normal color.

You do? As a proclaimed long-time numismatic photographer, you have pointed out the basic concept of DEPTH OF FIELD. It allows the entire coin to be in focus when each of its sides is a different distance (when tipped) from the camera lens. your "dodge" using "micro-anything" does not apply when imaging the entire coin.

I told him it was worth 1C

عملتك عبارة عن تمر صغير زنك يساوي سنت واحد

I disagree because I was there. Perhaps one day, after you have been collecting for at least two more decades, and have seen tens of thousands more coins, you MAY have a chance to approach the knowledge of those supposed "experts" making wild guesses who just may be laughing at the moment. Let's try and salvage your comments. Consider this: In many cases, we don't get to pick out the circumstances surrounding the environment when we get to examine a coin. In this case, the entire coin is not imaged and several members have indicated it is a terrible micrograph. Those members have swung and missed or just let the ball go by for a STRIKE OUT!. NEVERTHE LESS, other members have stepped up to the plate and hit a home run in the rain with the wind blowing in their face. I encourage to step up to the plate again. Do you think the toning on the 8 Rls.is "market acceptable?"