Coinbuf

What you have is just some put together sets, the mint did not issue any SMS sets for either of those years.

I do not think he is not going to actually send it for grading, heck I'm not even convinced that he has this coin at all, just fishing for a buyer. Smells like a scam.

I wish I could say that I have finished all the registry sets that I would like to, but then again I may never actually finish as many as I would like too. But I've never been a plastic snob, the brand of plastic is just not important to me like it is to some; I guess if resale was my only concern, it would be more an issue for me. I have said for years on the forum ats that people were wasting money by crossing coins into P plastic due to some perception that they had to even thou they were not selling coins into the market. Now, if the new CAC grading company becomes a market force; many of those same people will be spending loads of money to transfer their coins into the new plastic of choice. Hey its not my money so no skin off my back, just rather funny. Personally, I hope that the CAC grading company is a big success, as a collector of slabs I have selected five raw coins to submit to the new service once it opens. Looking forward to adding a few gen 1 CAC slabs to my holder collection.

Yep just a common large date, sorry that you wasted your money.

Sorry but you do not have one. The only coins that are considered as 1964 SMS coins are the handful of coins that came from the mint director's (in 1964) personal collection. If you did not personally receive this from that mint director (and have documentation of such) or buy this coin from the auction where those few coins were sold (again you would need the proper documents) your coin will not be an SMS period.

Yep that has happened to many, you're in good company.

Welcome to the forum, sorry to hear of the passing of your family member. On the main NGC website is a dealer locator Find a dealer; the locator uses your zip code and will give you the information of any NGC authorized dealers in your area, if any exist. Unfortunately I live on the west coast so I cannot be of any direct help, also very few coin dealers are going to be able to help with comics for that I suggest you do a google search for any comic book dealers in your area. Best of luck, if you have any questions or would like to double check any valuations of your coins you can post photos of each coin (one at a time) and the members here will do their best to provide you with information and grade/value assessments if possible. I would also suggest that you get a copy of the Redbook, this is a publication that has mintages and other useful information on every US coin. That will help you to know if any dealer that you visit is being honest and forthright with you on what you have.

Edit, I see you started another thread with the photo. Next time all you have to do is edit your thread, no need to start another.

Welcome to the forum, do you know what kind of coins you are interested in? I do not know of any shops on the west side, I live in Gilbert, the only local shop I give any business to is Xavier Coins in east Mesa. The owner is a bit gruff but fair and I have over the years bought a few nice coins from that establishment. There is a Phx coin club as well as the mesa coin club, I have heard many good things about both but am not a member of either. There is a monthly coin show in downtown Phx titled "Camelback Collectables Coin Show" and held at the Phoenix Shrine Auditorium; 552 N. 40th Street. The next show is Nov 13th, this is one venue that would be great for you to see lots of coins and to meet a few of the local brick and mortar dealers, as well as many local vest pocket dealers. This is a one day show usually on the second Sunday of the month but once a year it has an expanded two-day show. The Mesa coin club holds an annual two-day show, that will be on Jan 28th & 29th. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out via DM here on the forum, I'll be happy to help if I can.

Congrats on the newp Hog!! Looks to be a real luster bomb.

In the op he says that the coin has already been sent for grading, unless he is willing to share the submission number with us there is no way to verify the validity of his claim. I have strong doubts that we will ever see this thread updated with any results.

Looks like two coins glued together from your photo.

Yep as Bob wrote that is an obvious wheel mark, unfortunate as it looks like a nice coin otherwise.

The new photos do seem to confirm you have a winner, congrats on the find, shame that the condition is not better.

I really love the photography work of Mark Goodman and have had him shoot all the coins in my 1940 mint set. This year I had upgraded a few coins and wanted those new coins to have the photos they deserve and to keep the look of the registry set the same. So last week I sent these (and a few others) off to Mark, as usual he did not disappoint. So here are the photos of this year's upgrades to my 1940 mint set, hope you all enjoy them.

Photos?

Maybe, need to see if there are more of the PUP's to match it up. If you can post some closeups of In God We Trust, especially the last T in Trust.

Looks like MD to me also.

Don't be sorry, remember that we are really grading a photo vs the actual coin. Some coin photos are easier than others and photos of toned coins are sometimes very tough, let me expound on my guess. 1) The surfaces, the surface of your coin looks to have been dipped in the past. That is not in itself something that will disqualify a coin from a high grade, but it usually limits the coin to MS67. Notice that the PCGS coin you used as your example has a creamy frosty look, full mint bloom is evident on that coin and it is entirely possible (tho not impossible) that it has never been dipped. Your coin is nice and bright (especially the rev) but the surface doesn't have that buttery smooth look that virgin surfaces should have. 2) The strike is full, nice almost full cheek, hair lines, and breast feathers, however when I look at the cheek, the top of the cap, and the leaves there sems to be the hint of color change which could be signs of the slightest friction. This is one area where a static photo and the toning make it difficult to assess if these are areas that did not fully strike up, hints of slight friction, or just how the coin and tone make it look, at least to my eye. Without being able to view the coin as it rotates under a proper light source I went with the conservative approach with my AU call. 3) and lastly the color, this color looks too even and uniform which is a look that is easier to create and almost always makes me think AT. Also if you look at the stars and date on the PCGS example, you see how the tone is not right up to and over those design elements. There is what is called a "pull away" effect where the tone is slightly separated from the stars and numbers. It may just be the photo but I'm not really seeing that on your coin, it seems that the tone on your coin goes right up and over all the design elements. When I see that I tend to think AT is possible, I have never seen or heard of anyone that has been able to duplicate that pull away look on an AT'd coin. In summary when I look at your photos of your coin the tone looks suspicious to me and there are some signs that point to possible friction points, I might have a totally different opinion if I had the coin in hand under proper lighting. As such I hope that I'm just being too critical and that it straight grades for you, and I hope that you will stop back and update once you have the grading result.

I saw your post ats, congrats on the finishing of this set. It is quite a rush when a collector finds that last coin he needs to finish, very well done and a fine looking year set.

AU details questionable color is what I see, I hope I'm wrong. Please come back and update with a photo of the slab once you get it back, always nice to see the results.

The current registry software has no provision to contact another member, this is one feature that has been asked to be addressed in the next software update. As such nobody searching the registry can contact you other than via PM, which you can also turn off. If you're really that bothered or concerned over your contact info you can make the sets private or not list them at all. Totally safe that way.

Not a "die clash error" just a die clash, while not an everyday find die clashes are not really that uncommon.

Welcome to the forum, I am inclined to agree with @Oldhoopster, it sounds like an issue with the strike or a worn die. A pic of what you're seeing would be very helpful to better understand your question. However, in general minor issues like this seldom find a large collector base.

I think the MM matches RPM-006 the best also, were you able to confirm any of the other markers for that RPM as listed on VV?