Coinbuf

Too late, between your and Kurt's presence here this forum has already devolved to the lowest point it can possibly ever go. So long as NGC allows the chaff to remain this forum can never be a place of professionalism or true learning, just a place for trolls. @physics-fan3.14 my apologies, as my reply has only served to further derail the purpose of your thread, I will not lower myself to the troll's level again. I sincerely hope your roommate gets through this with flying colors.

First welcome to the forum. Your other photos are too blurry to see much, this one is decent (although it would be much easier for us to view if you had it oriented correctly) and from what I can see in this one photo there is no strike doubling on this coin. I see a very slight bit of worthless strike doubling or die deterioration doubling on the date and mintmark; also, there is only one DDO for this date/mm and that is the doubled ear variety. In the future I suggest that you consult the listings on Variety Vista Link to VV, there you can see all the known DDO and DDR's for many series. Looking there first will save you alot of time looking for things that don't exist.

Sounds like this place will see even more newbies arguing, I can hear it now, if it's on the app it must be true.

Lovely cents as always @robec1347, glad you were able to reacquire those. Sweet 58-D @Coin Cave.

The answer depends on how badly any dealer needs to turn inventory and create cash flow. As an example, dealer buys 5 saints for $2000 each, he is then able to sell 4 of those coins for a total profit of $1800. He still has one saint but at a net cost of $200, in this case he really does not have to sell the coin unless cash flow becomes an issue, and even if he subsequently sells that last one for $1600 he is still $1400 ahead on the entire deal. Just one of many possible scenarios to explain why a dealer could be willing to hold out for that one buyer. And yes it is also possible that a few dealers who get themselves overextended during a bull run might end up folding, it seems that there is always someone that is left without a chair when the music stops. A few years back there was a fellow on the PCGS forum who tried his hand at being a vest pocket dealer, buying and selling on the BST of that forum; he ran into some trouble and overextended himself and began to rob Paul to pay Peter. Sadly in the end he took his own life as a result of how badly in debt he was.

While often coin dealers deal in bullion gold and silver, there is a difference in how they operate between bullion and collector coins. Yes bullion is bought and then sold almost immediately by coin dealers to the bullion wholesalers. They then do what they do to move it along the pipeline, all this takes a few hours to a day or so at most. But collectable coins are different, a dealer who bought inventory when gold was high, (important to remember that most dealers still leave room for markup), he may not have been able to sell all those coins before the price fell back. So depending on how badly that dealer needs to turn that inventory he may be perfectly happy to sit on it at high prices and wait for the next price run up. Also collectors and speculators who bought gold coins at full retail from a coin dealer or auction site while prices were at the top might be trying to sell now through places like GC or Ebay and setting high reserves to try and recoup all or most of the purchase price and fees. And fees are a big consideration for higher priced items like this, if you don't have a store on ebay the fees will be 5-8% higher. The gold coin market has lots of nuances and players with different motivations and considerations when it comes to pricing collectable and bullion gold coins. Add to that the seemingly endless strong demand for both bullion and collector coins and it's really no surprise that we are still seeing high asking prices. I also think that many sellers believe, as you have predicted in some of your replies on gold, that the spot price still has some upside potential. Thus, if they believe that then there is no reason to take a loss unless the cashflow becomes an issue.

One reason for the continued high gold coin prices is that many bought them at the height of the price bubble and are reluctant to sell at a loss. And gold is just in high demand even now.

I would hold onto it, I cannot say for sure from these photos but a couple of areas seem to match up to one of the four known DDO's for the year/mm.

Not so tasty tho.

Another reason that you might see some stronger bidding for NGC coins with CAC stickers is there are some folks that are looking to buy NGC coins with CAC stickers and cross them to the new CACG once that is open. CACG has already said that every coin with a green bean will automatically cross and some will upgrade to a + or perhaps even a full grade. They feel that removing the NGC holder stigma and placing those coins into the new holder will result in a huge price jump. Not saying that is the case here as anyone with that motivation would want to get it cheap, but a small wrinkle in the market for NGC/CAC coins.

The date is unimportant as the coin is heavily damaged and has no numismatic value, I would say that it most likely is a 1936 minted at the SF mint. In 1936 the SF mint coined just over 29 million coins for that year, and while like your Mercury dime this coin is old there were more than enough saved so even high grade examples can be found for just a few dollars. Value for this coin is 2 or 3 cents at best to a collector, however, you will see coins like this, and your Merc dime, offered on sites like etsy and ebay with much higher asking prices. Unfortunately some folks are sucked in and ripped off by those unscrupulous sellers.

You have a damaged (gouged/scratched) Mercury dime from 1943 minted at the SF mint. SF minted 60.4 million Mercury dimes that year, while this dime is old there is no shortage of dimes from that year or timeframe in general. Often people automatically assume that old equals valuable, that is true sometimes but more often not. As such there is essentially no demand for a damaged coin when a collector can easily find a nice high grade example often for under $10. If you received this as part of an inheritance or from a family member there may be some sentimental value for you, as the dime is silver it does have a greater than face value for that silver. Currently today the melt value of that dime is just over $1.50, the value changes with the spot value of silver and you can check the value of any US coin at this link. Click here

First as nobody has said so welcome to the forum. Second, I do not believe Greenstang was being snarky with his reply, unfortunate that you took it that way. And I will also echo what has been said, your coin (and that of the OP) are simply damaged coins. If you are interested in learning about coins there are many great sites, not the youtube type of sites that are only looking for clicks and likes; but sites where you can really learn how coins are minted. With that information you will be able to identify true errors from simple damage that occurs after the coins leave the mint.

To all those who have served.

This condition properly belongs in the "split plate doubling" category, which is a form of strike doubling. I find that terminology can be confusing to for some collectors to understand (especially new collectors) for coins like this where the copper plating did not actually split. So, while I often use the ghost doubling term it is not the proper term and I should probably get out of the habit of using it to avoid confusion.

I think you will now have to explain to him what a burner phone is.

That is a great outlook and I hope one that you never lose, but when it comes to numismatics, I have seen all sorts of unsavory behavior and have witnessed first-hand the cheating that is done with the registry system. A few years ago a member of the two forums openly admitted having a coin that he crossed from NGC to PCGS at a lower grade because he wanted the coin in PCGS plastic even with the lower grade. Nothing wrong with that by itself, however he then boasted about continuing to use the old higher grade NGC cert number in the NGC registry, even though the coin was no longer in that holder. And that is just one of many similar transgressions that I have read/heard/seen over the years on these two forums. If you were a type collector there is a registry that could accommodate your wishes for raw coin inclusion, but that registry is primarily geared to seated and type coins. Should you ever dive into areas outside the Morgan dollar it might be something to look into. Here is a link to the registry on the GFRC site GFRC registry

As there were no SMS coins issued by the US mint in 1964, do you think it is an SMS coin?

Well to be fair, the registry is there for a couple of reasons, not the least of which is to attract collectors to submitting coins and promote the brand. So it makes sense that the TPG's that run competitive registries have an incentive to only allow certified coins. And it is the only true fair way to do that, allowing raw coins would involve the coin's owner to set the grade, which has far too many inherent problems and would require far too much work for the registry staff to manage. I can only imagine the flood of complaints the team would receive over grades as defined by the coin owner even in a noncompetitive set like custom sets; heck there is already quite a bit of cheating and inaccuracy within the registry as it is. For these reasons I would not really ever expect any TPG registry to include raw coins into the registry system. That is unfortunate for the honest coin collectors, but as usual it only takes one bad apple.

Congrats on a cool find Hog!!

Great idea, not likely to happen here because of one or two individuals, the mods here need to take action and show a couple the door as they have been on other forums. And actually this thread just emphasizes what is so wrong with this forum, a few jerks are always taking threads in the wrong directions so they can feel good about themselves.

Building a custom set is not difficult but requires the user to decide what the makeup of the set should be, with traditional registry sets the registry team has already designed and built the design of the sets. Also the custom portion of the registry is still on the old NGC registry system which is not as user friendly as the new registry system. That is not to say that it is difficult just different and requires you to plan and design how you want the set to look. Plus you can choose from the available categories of custom sets that the registry team has setup that best defines what your custom set represents. The real benefit to customs sets is the same as the drawback, you get to decide what the makeup of the set will be instead of being limited to the predesigned sets of the competitive registry. I have a couple of custom sets and have plans to do a couple more in the future, just need to dedicate the time and get started. Unlike the competitive sets you can include coins that have been certified by companies other than just NGC and PCGS. However, while the software will accept those coins, only the owner of the set can actually see those coins. Visitors to the sets will only see the NGC and PCGS certified coins, something that I have been asking the registry team to change, maybe that will happen someday before I die. Just an FYI, you can use the same coins in both a custom set and a competitive set, in fact you can use the same coins in multiple competitive sets. For example, you can enter your Rossie dimes in the 1946 to 1964 circulation issues, those same coins can then also be used with your proof coins to start the set 1946 to date complete. So there is a fair amount of flexibility to how many and what sets you can create with the same coins. Above all have fun and enjoy your sets.