Coinbuf

Welcome to the forum, those marks happen when the reeded edge of another coin (likely another quarter) bangs into this quarter and damages it. Edited to add: These are called, appropriately, reeding marks.

Yes, I would say that does look like a strike through.

This thread is right up @Hoghead515's ally for sure.

Thank you @Cozdred for the explanation and the photos, that does indeed help to understand the difference.

The forum has an ignore function and it is very useful for just this type of problem, my suggestion is you may want to look into using that feature so you do not want to see or read his nonsense.

Putting together sets like this is what makes coin collecting fun and a great way to start and enjoy the hobby. As you move along try and look at as many coins as possible be critical and ask questions so you can learn, nobody knows it all. If you can I highly suggest that you go to a local or reginal coin show, do not go looking to buy any coins, just look. It is very eye-opening for anyone that has never been to any shows to see just how many coins are actually available, it is a great learning opportunity. Here is a link to a site that lists most/many of the local coin shows for each state, select your state to see if there are any local shows close to you. Link I've been collecting for almost 50 years and I still learn something almost every day, just yesterday I found out that the reverse design of the 2018 Palladium $25 coin is actually a design that was first used on a medal issued 115 years ago. Just keep learning and growing and enjoy collecting coins, most of the problems with new posters arise not the questions but with those new members that insist they are right or when they continue to ask the same questions over and over again, that is when some of us older folks get grumpy.

Clashed coins are indeed very cool, that is a very dramatic clash.

A fool and his money are soon parted, an old but wise saying.

A bit late to this thread, kept meaning to reply and then would get sidetracked. It was my maternal grandmother that helped me get started with coins. When I was roughly 10yrs old my grandmother gave me a group of old Indian Head cents and a trifold holder. These intrigued me but they were dark and rather gungy so I asked if I should clean them up, she said I could so I grabbed a can of Brasso and went to town shinning those babies up. If only I knew then what I know now about the cleaning of coins. The one saving grace is that all those poor cents were super common date coins in F or lower so there was not much numismatically speaking lost. I still have those coins in that same folder and they are still quite shinny even today. But the experience opened my eyes and mind to the world of coins and I began to purchase some very inexpensive low grade raw coins that I could afford as a young boy. As I reached the late teens school and girls took over the interest, and the available funds, so coins sat in the background for quite a few years. Somewhere around my mid thirties I rekindled the desire and I started to look around at the available outlets to acquire coins. By now the coin slabbing business had begun but I was still an album hole filler and I settled on Lincolns, bought myself a Dansco album and started buying. Boy did I make some costly mistakes buying coins that had been cleaned and recolored, most of which I only realized many years later. But I was lucky that I found a local dealer that began to teach and mentor me on what to look for and how to grade. Being rather hardheaded I tended to resist by along the way I started to understand, and my buying got better. Around this time, I had mostly finished my album except for the expensive keys that I was afraid to purchase raw given my history of mistakes. One day this dealer had a 1909-S VDB that he put up on his bid board, PCGS MS64RB in a rattler holder. I was determined to buy that coin and I did, my first slabbed coin. After I bought that first slabbed coin I decided to investigate other slabbed coins and I was off on the hunt and began to think of registry quality coins and sets. I also thought that I would clean up by having all my raw Lincolns graded so I bought a PCGS membership and sent off a large submission with great anticipation. This was the moment that I learned how many mistakes I had made much earlier on my raw purchases. As you can imagine that first submission was very disappointing indeed. Of course, being hardheaded (I think I mentioned that before lol) I blamed the TPG and gave them a good cussing out in my mind. I have no idea why but I stuck with it and over time I found out that most of those first submission duds were my fault and became a better more quality conscious buyer. Since that time I have gone on to now complete my slabbed Lincoln set thru 1958 and am working to fill in the slots from 1959 to current. This is not a priority for me as I really am not that fond of the Memorial reverse design so am not as motivated. Along the way I also developed a liking for Morgan dollars and over time have bought a semi complete date/mm set, just missing the super expensive dates which I may never be able to afford. I also have gained an appreciation for type set collecting and am continuing with those pursuits including several year mint sets. And while I very much enjoy putting together high-grade registry sets I still have great fun filling holes in albums and folders. I currently am filling in the time between larger purchases by finding decent BU/AU coins in change and filling up a VF(ish) merc set in an old library of coins album. Coins are a journey that takes many twists and turns, a continuous evolution that I have and will continue to enjoy.

Does it come with a secret decoder ring too?

Those sell well to the east coast tourist and snowbirds.

In general this is what I was taught as well, but I have found that there never was a solid industry/hobby wide definition of these terms and thus depending on where you are from and who "taught" you the terms and how they relate to the Sheldon scale there is some variance. It is also interesting that for the most part it was very hard to get something graded higher than gem (for MS) when the TPG's started, even many dealers stopped with MS65 for the longest time, superb gem MS67 and better is a rather recent grading realm.

Wonderful coin, for those that may not know (like myself) can you explain the difference between the high shield and a non high shield.

I have only one for type purposes, not a series that I have ever really liked that much. Sorry for the poor photo, haven't spent the time to ever put it under the lens.

The only way I know to do this is use the old collectors society registry here is a link to the old site. Old registry system You use your same login information to access that old site. The data will look slightly different than the new system but you can run reports in that system that you cannot in the new system. You hover the mouse over "My Collection" and the last option is run reports. That will take you to the report function where you can pick from several inventory options, active, sold, all etc. Once you pick your report options the report will be generated, that report can then be downloaded to excel or PDF. Here is an example of how the report looks for me, I blanked out some of the info for this pic but all the info you have entered for your coins should be there.

Not the prettiest girl at the ball, but the one I currently have in my 7070 album.

Not an expensive coin for sure, but the colors and luster speak to me.

The rev strike is a late die state strike, that is evident from all the flow lines and general mushiness and softness you see. However, the obverse is very well struck and seems to have sufficient luster to support a gem grade. And while I might not consider it a gem quality coin, overall, I can see how under the market grading scheme that the TPG's use why a gem grade was issued.

@JessicaJoe yes, you have a 1917 standing liberty quarter. Even with the pic a bit blurry I can say with confidence that this coin is not a coin you should spend the money to have graded. Your coin is a circulated coin and is worth less than the cost to have graded. I suggest that before you spend lots of money on grading coins that you stop and learn how to grade those coins first. Many beginners think that because a coin is old that it must be valuable, while many old coins are valuable, and most have a value that exceeds the face value, a large percentage are not valuable enough to be worth having graded and slabbed.

It is not a walking liberty half, she has a standard ASE (American Silver Eagle), these were first struck in 1986 and are still being produced by the US mint today. This design was used through 2021 with a new type 2 reverse design also introduced in 2021, the obverse has not been changed.

Not MS, a circulated coin possibly lightly polished.

Yes, $35ish for full retail, if selling to a dealer I would expect less.

Welcome to the forum, we will need photos (in focus cropped photos) to answer your question, value is a function of condition (grade) and then any additional value if a specific variety warrants extra value.