Coinbuf

It looks like a slab, where is this being sold?

Acid will do that. And not the kind some people consume.

In my opinion none of the three coins in your op are worth the costs of grading. The 1988 ASE is one of the tougher dates for those coins, however, I just searched ebay and there is one listed as a buy it now for under $60 graded as MS69. Neither the Kennedy or the Franklin look is though they would grade higher than MS64 from your photos, and the Franklin does not have full bell lines. You need to determine what coins will have enough value added to them after you consider your purchase cost of the coin and all the costs and fees associated with having a coin graded. As an example, if you bought the Franklin for lets say $5, and it costs $35 to have it graded/slabbed, but only sells for $30 as an MS64 (the grade I think it maxes out at) then you will lose money by having it graded.

^ This!

How about showing us the full slab photo.

Either the coin is real and the seller is completely unaware of what he/she has, which is possible. Or the much more likely scenario is that this is an Alibaba or Ali Express fake or added mintmark, however, I would expect a seller of an added mintmark coin to ask more.

I am solidly in the AU camp myself, the rev eagle shoulder is clean and does not seem to have any rub. However, the obv headdress and feathers are screaming AU, maybe in hand or out of the 2X2 I would think differently. Regardless it is a great looking coin and I think it would go AU58.

Congrats! and welcome to the forum.

On 12/28 I received an invitation to the FUN show reception hosted by NGC. Unfortunately I will not be attending the FUN show and the invitation came too late to make any plans to attend. But I wanted to express my gratitude to NGC and the registry staff for the invitation, I hope all who can attend enjoy the event!

Great job! It may not have saved you a ton of money on the reholder itself, but shipping costs are very high not to mention the risk of loss. That looks like a winner from here!

To start the new year off!

Happy new year!!

While these are pricy this is the very best way to protect sensitive coins in slabs. Double protection box

Toning of all kind comes from exposure to environmental conditons such as heat, humidity, smoke, and many others. These ASE coins are a very high silver content, higher than say a Morgan dollar. As such they tone quicker and are more reactive to poor storage conditons than almost any other US silver coin. I do not know what caused that toning to begin, but I personally do not find it attractive and for me personally it would devalue the coin. It is just as likely that another collector might find it very attractive and be willing to pay above market for it. While I don't think the tone has anything to do with milkspots this coin has two milkspots showing and more could possibly be on the way or already present on the obv. The two spots I see are located along the rim next to the period between the 1oz and UNITED; the second spot is just above the top left most star. Personally I'm not a fan of the ASE coin due to the propensity for toning and milkspots.

What is a PS collector??

First, as JP wrote, proof coins are not MS (mint state) they receive a PF designation in front of the grade to denote these coins as proof coins not coins made for circulation. Second modern proof coins will, with very few exceptions, grade as PF68DCAM or higher, with the majority at PF69DCAM or PF70DCAM. In case you are not aware DCAM stands for deep cameo. This is true for proof coins produced from the 1980's to current. As you go further back in time to the 1950's the mint production quality was not as good and the coins did not receive quite as much careful handling as today. Also, some coins have not been stored properly so you will begin to see some slightly lower grades and less DCAM designations, and start to see some CAM designated coins, CAM stands for cameo, and coins that are more brilliant and receive no DCAM or CAM designation. It is not uncommon to see coins from the 60's and 70's with one side having fully CAM or even DCAM surfaces and the other side of the coin being just a brilliant surface. As you continue further back you find that the mint experimented with different finishes for some years and receive a different designation such as Matte. Once again these coins may have been subjected to improper storage so the grades can begin to move into the lower PF60-PF65 range and CAM coins are rare with DCAM almost impossible. Also keep in mind that the mint did not sell proof coins in the early part of the 20th century and the 19th century the way they are sold today. Often proof coins were sold as individual coins not as sets, partly due to the fact that the mint did not strike proofs for each denomination produced every year in the 19th century and early 20th.

Welcome to the forum, I do not know what reverse you are looking at because the rev photo you posted has lots of damage on it.

Some very fine coins in your set indeed. Checked but no upgrades for my 1940 year set, but have a couple bookmarked to watch.

What happened is simple damage.

Unfortunately just some uber common strike or die erosion doubling, hopefully you can get some divine guidance on the proper way to hold a coin.

The advice above is sound, use a glass container if possible and pure acetone not fingernail polish remover. Let the coin sit for a while and every so often agitate the acetone by gently swirling the container. If/once the acetone becomes green or murky change out for a fresh bath of acetone, depending on how much PVC is present it can take several baths to remove it all. Once you feel confident that all the PVC is removed place the coin on a paper towel, acetone will completely evaporate so no need to do any drying or further washing. Hopefully the PVC has not etched the surface of the coin, but it can if left untreated.

The reasonable price is whatever the seller can sucker the buyer into paying when buying problem coins.

One tin foil hat coming right up!