• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Coinbuf

Member: Seasoned Veteran
  • Posts

    7,225
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    111

Everything posted by Coinbuf

  1. I would suggest that before you spend any grading fees on it that you post your photos on the CONECA forum for further feedback. While the areas that you have shown us do match for FS-104, your coin is missing the rev marker that @Sandon posted. And FS-104 and FS-105 have very similar obv doubling on the motto, so I suggest that you investigate the photos for FS-105 very closely as there is a big price difference between 104 and 105. If you just want the coin certified for your collection, and if the folks on the CONECA forum feel you might have an FS-104 then it might be worth the cost to submit if you choose to. However if your goal is to sell this coin after having it graded, the question you should answer before spending money on submitting is, who is the buyer for this coin. I have many Lincoln sets in the registry, not one set in the NGC registry has a slot for this coin only the FS-101. Same for the PCGS registry, and if there are no registry buyers for these somewhat obscure DDO's then finding a buyer for a coin in less than stelar condition may be difficult.
  2. It appears to be a match, perhaps a late die state which there are no markers available to confirm on VV.
  3. Sounds like your friend has a vice job coin, but all anyone can do is guess without pics.
  4. Just to circle back to your GSA Morgan dollars. Depending on how you plan to liquidate these coins it may be advisable to have them graded. GSA's have seen a nice rise in values over the past few years and graded examples sell in the $400 range up to $800+ for the better dates and grades. NGC does a nice job of grading the GSA morgans, they leave the coin in the GSA holder and place a band with the grade and information around the holder. Many collectors prefer to have the original packaging (holder, box, and COA) when buying a GSA coin.
  5. I submit very few coins to TPG's, like maybe five or six coins every 5 years or so. But yes when I do submit coins I know what I think they should grade, when there are differences sometimes I see why upon further inspection, sometimes I do not.
  6. While this is true only the NGC and PCGS coins are actually visible to anyone other than the set owner. My old holder custom set has 4 pages of coins, but anyone other than myself will only see the two pages of NGC and PCGS coins.
  7. Your new photos are unfortunately not much better. Keep in mind that in 1878 the Morgan dollar was a new design and thus many were saved, and from a mintage of almost 10 million coins these are super plentiful and easy to find even in extremely high grade. I would not change my grade assessment form the new photos, and really it is not that important to pinpoint the grade. However, if you wish to I would suggest that you review the Photograde resource that is available on the PCGS website, as you have the coin in hand it is often easier to compare it to photos of particular grades. Pay particular attention to the AU50 thru AU55 grades here is a link to that resource. Photograde When it comes to value for an 1878-S the spread from junk silver melt value coins to lowend mint state is very small, only about a $40 difference. Junk silver Morgan dollars are selling for about $30-$35 and a graded MS60 sells for $70-$75. As an AU I would value your coin at about $45 retail, likely less if selling to a dealer.
  8. Welcome to the forum, kudos for your photos being in focus, cropped, and large. The only drawback is that they are flooded with light and that makes it difficult to evaluate the surfaces very well. From what I see I think your coin would grade in the AU range, I would call it AU55.
  9. Welcome to the forum, this question has been asked several time in the past years, the reply from NGC has always been no ANACS coins will not be allowed to be used. I doubt that is likely to change anytime soon but it never hurts to ask again.
  10. I am unclear what you mean by "to log my proof sets" you have to enter each coin into your inventory. Once you have the coins entered in your inventory (remember any PCGS coins need to be verified by an NGC admin which can add a day or two) then you can begin to build sets, both custom and competitive. As far as I know you cannot enter an entire proof set as a one line item, each certified coin must be entered separately. If you are trying to enter an entire set in one entry that will not work and may explain the difficulties, you may have encountered. So the steps to follow are: 1) Once logged in go to the control panel 2) Hover the mouse over "my collection", a drop down menu will appear, select add coin. Add all the NGC or PCGS certified coins you have to enter, this is building your inventory. 3) Once you have finished entering your coins into your inventory, again in the control panel hover the mouse over "my collection" and select new competitive set or new custom set. If you choose new competitive set you will be taken to the new registry system. You will choose United States, and then scroll down to where proof sets start. There are several options for proof sets, each option covers a group of years. Select the tab that covers the year you wish to start a proof set and then the appropriate year. once you choose the year the registry will display all the current sets for that particular year, and just above the list of sets on the left hand side you will see a link that says "Create a Set". Click the link, and you will be prompted to enter some info like a set name, description, etc. You then click Create Set and the set will be created, you can then select each coin yourself or use the autobuild function which will automatically select the coin with the highest points for each slot. If you choose a custom set you will stay on the collectors society site, you will be prompted to select a category, set name, description etc... same as with a competitive set. Click create set, here is where the two systems differ, for the custom set you have to enter each coin manually. Slots cannot be filled with the select tool like the new system and there is no autobuild. Any competitive set can also be created using the new registry system only, some members (like myself) prefer to use the old system when entering inventory as it has some features that are not available on the new system. Custom sets can only be done on the old collectors society system.
  11. Ok, so clearly there is already a CAC sticker on the coin, it would have been helpful if you had said that initially. I can see several reasons why those PCGS coins would sell for more than the NGC coin. The first PCGS coin shows a really nice frosty, creamy look that indicates the coin is undipped and original, those are very desirable aspects that many collectors look for. Also, the second coin is toned, not a coin that would be called monster toned but toned coins often bring more at auction. While I don't understand it or agree with it, it is true that in many cases a PCGS coin will sell for more simply because two people wanted the coin for a PCGS registry set. And of course there is the auction fever that can influence the outcome of any auction which may, or may not, have played a part in the outcomes of the PCGS coins. The NGC coin has some signs of an old dip, the light tobacco color that is somewhat splotchy as seen on the obv is possibly dip residue that was not rinsed off well and now beginning to show. There is also some tone or slight disruptions visible on the bust area, neither of these two things are major issues, or cause for concern, just what I see when I look at the photos, and perhaps what others may have seen also. In my opinion the two PCGS coins have better eye appeal and that is why they sold for more imo, however, the important thing is that you are happy with the coin you buy. That really is the only good reason to buy any coin.
  12. Without any photos it is impossible for anyone to provide you an intelligent reply. But a few thoughts, first if the ebay coin will sticker at CAC (this is my take on your comment that the coin can sticker) why would the seller not already have the coin seen by CAC, why would the seller want to leave money on the table. Secondly ebay is likely the biggest marketplace in the world for coins, that the coin has been sitting for months and is priced at a discounted price may be some serious red flags. Again without any photos all anyone here can do is guess.
  13. There is nothing legal about this, however, often these go unnoticed and unchallenged. The best thing to do when you see this type of stuff is to report it to the staff at NGC.
  14. You are 100% wrong, occluded gas errors only happen on solid alloy coins not on zinc core plated coins as is the case with the 1990 cent you posted. Common plating blisters that popped and now you have zinc rot, not an error just a spender. From a coin world article written by Mike Diamond: "An “occluded” gas bubble is simply one whose roof has remained intact instead of rupturing from the internal pressure. If the roof is of sufficient thickness, it could conceivably resist pressure from a toothpick. The occluded gas bubble hypothesis is supported by a microscopic surface texture that is identical to the surrounding field. Even microscopic die flow lines continue across the two bulges without interruption. This supports the idea that the die face was intact and undisturbed when the coin was struck. Occluded gas bubbles are restricted to solid-alloy coins and should be distinguished from plating blisters that form in copper-plated zinc cents. Blistered plating occurs when there is a poor bond between the copper plating and the zinc core. Heat generated by the strike causes gas expansion beneath the plating, pushing it up." Here is a link to that article if you wish to read all of it. Coin world article
  15. There could be a problem as I do not think this coin would or could be CAC approved. I am not 100% certain if CAC has ever accepted any Mexico coins for review in the past. However, there are no non-US coins on the list of coins that CAC will review at this time. Nor are there any world coins of any type listed in the CAC pop report, only an NGC representative can help you further with your question but that seems to be a red flag.
  16. Counterfeit is my call, but I'm far from an expert on these.
  17. That is a terrible loss for his family, the numismatic community, and NGC. I wish I had been able to meet him in person, he will be missed.
  18. The photos that Bill posted look to have been taken/lit/massaged in a way that could be hiding some issues. I think it is a good idea that he passed on this coin.
  19. You have already asked this question before, not sure what answer you are looking for that you have already not gotten. The very simple answer is yes, it is possible for a coin pulled from circulation to grade as a mint state grade. As I previously explained, graders have no way of knowing if a coin sent for grading came from a mint roll, mint set, or your change from 7-11. They grade the coin that is in front of them on its merits and wort's, it is no more complicated than that.
  20. When clad coins are submerged in acid for a length of time, the acid eats away the copper core faster than the clad outer layer leaving a rim that looks like a railroad track. If the op's coin had that effect it would seal the coffin on damaged by acid. The lack of that doesn't disprove an acid was used just would have proven it was.