Coinbuf

No worries, maybe this diagram that a member from ats posted will help you to understand the difference. The real key is the height of the relief of both areas, MD is always lower than the die relief because the MD is caused by the die bouncing at the time of striking and thus doesn't receive the full striking pressure. A true DD is in the die thus the doubled area is struck to the same relief as the primary design. Its also important to note that in some cases it is possible to have both MD and DD.

MD, the flat shelf like relief tells all.

Just a well used dime.

I also only see a touch of strike doubling no DDR markers that look like the two known DDR's for this date.

Its my opinion that you found a coin that has sustained post mint damage and a hit has flattened the section of the "G" initial. Its easy to see what we want to see on damaged coins.

Welcome, good advice above no need to clean or "improve" the coins you have just sell as is. You can use the Coin Marketplace available here on these forums, its free to sell just provide clear in focus cropped photos and prices. You will need to do some homework to determine the grade and price, this resource called Photograde is a very easy tool and as you can see your 1904 grades G08 worth around $1-$2. Pricing is a bit tougher and searching Ebay completed sales will be the best way to ballpark a value. From what you mentioned most if not all the US coins are of low value with the silver coins very close to the silver melt value. Because of the low value I would sell the coins in groups, all the silver Washington qtrs as one group and so on. It will be easier to sell that way and much easier for you when it comes to shipping. The next avenue is Ebay, same as selling here group items with good photos and realistic prices. there are fees to sell there so not free. The third option is to take everything to a local coin shop and see what the dealer will offer. It will possibly be the lowest amount of money but you don't have to put in the time and work to list, ship etc.. and may end up being the best and fastest way to sell. Best of luck.

It could be a planchet issue but I think an in hand view would be needed to say for sure, interesting.

Do you have a pic of the rev? I also think MD but I'd like to see if any markers are present on the rev. There are 10 known for this date/mm

I see a circulated Susan B Anthony coin that has no numismatic value worth just face value of $1. Is there something specific about it that caught your attention?

I know so I will only say very nice coin and addition to your set.

In every TPG brand of plastic you can find, undergraded gems, overgraded dogs, and right for the grade coins. Grading is not a science it is an opinion; and opinions are subject to the feelings of the graders on that one day and might very well change on any other day. As a buyer you have to decide what fits your definition of the grade you seek and find an example that fits your eye and definition. Also Ebay is somewhat of a dumping ground for a large percentage of coins listed there. I'm not saying that you cannot find nice attractive coins on Ebay, but often; always for some coins types; you have to sift through lots of garbage to find what you want.

A couple of places you can look, first is the NGC coin explorer found on the main NGC page. Once you have selected the coin you want you can move down the page to the auction prices realized table where you can find info on each grade like pop number, guide price, current auctions, and previous auctions. By clicking on view all another page will be opened and you can select the grade (or range) auction houses you want to see info from and such. The second is the Auction prices realized available from the PCGS main page, generally the same info just a different format. Sometimes the PCGS search is more up to date for some reason, in the case of your 1879 the PCGS search shows two auctions from 2020 that the NGC search doesn't. HA = Heritage Auctions DL = David Lawrence SB = Stacks and Bowers auction house CG (my bad should be GC) = Great Collections auctions Most of these will come up by using the TPG search functions but sometimes by looking at the closed auction history on the auction website you can see photos and descriptions that help to understand why a coin may have sold very high or very low. The TPG search's are what I use to get a feel for what the real world pricing is and then compare to the guide prices. The only issue is with coins that have low pops and therefore fewer auction results, to draw info from.

The $10 Indian Head gold coin is a great looking coin and you should be able to find a nice MS62 or MS63 in your price range. As an example I see that Great Collections has a very nice looking 1915 (type 4) $10 Indian gold coin PCGS graded MS63 with a starting bid of $1,100. I would suggest looking for a CAC verified example to help maximize the value but that is your call.

Opps sorry I forgot you have the rev of 78 and pulled the value for a regular 1879-S. Having said that both the NGC ($230) and PCGS ($250) price guides are well over the recent auction results which over the past 4yrs have a wide range from a low of $60 to a high of $200 and a median of around $150. Those results are for NGC and PCGS graded coins that were auctioned by HA, DL, and SB; I didn't look at CG to see what their results have been. Auction history on the 1885-CC shows a very tight price range from AU58 to MS64 with a slight price jump at MS65 for NGC and PCGS graded coins. Because the market often discounts the ICG holder and the tight price range likely explains why you got a deal.

Coins are a poor investment unless you have exceptional grading skills to spot the under graded/under valued coins or lots of blind luck. Nobody can predict what coin or metal will increase or decrease in value over the next ten days much less the next 30 years. As an example in the late 1980's classic commemorative coins were super popular and the prices were sky high, fast forward to today and those coins are not popular and those coins now sell for about 1/3 of what they were 30 years ago. Same thing for toned coins, thirty years ago toned coins were shunned by most collectors and sold for less than bright white coins, today toned coins go for multiples of what many bright white examples fetch. Coin and metal markets change all the time and there is no way of knowing what the market will want in thirty years. True that gold coins are always in demand but gold is not really rare in a true sense and gold prices are in constant flux. I would not suggest buying at todays $1,700 per ounce prices (keep in mind that just a year ago gold was selling for $1,100 an ounce) unless you have some inside info that you know the price will continue to rise over the next 30 years. I have no idea where gold prices will go from here, prices could stabilize and $1,700 an ounce may become the new norm, or prices could go higher or lower. In a thirty year time span you might see all three price possibilities, level, up to $4,000 an ounce, down to $500 an ounce, no way to know. Buying coins is a hobby where you buy them for their beauty and history, if your able to make some money when the time comes to sell that's a nice bonus but shouldn't be expected. If you want a gold coin then I would look for a key date coin like the 1911-D indian head $2.5 gold coin or another key date gold or silver coin that you find attractive. Key date coins have the best (not 100%) chance of holding and/or appreciating in value over time.

I suspect that from his picture he thinks its silver because there is no copper core showing along the edge as it does for the other two dimes. To the op, it is not uncommon for the outer clad layer to cover the edge of small coins like dimes, as others have said you have a regular 1966 dime worth $.10.

I would leave them as is I do not see you gaining any value on the 1879-S in that grade; too common a coin worth $35-$40 at this grade so not worth spending another $35 to have it crossed. I think the 1885-CC would drop a grade (ICG is liberal with grades imo) and while there is not a big price spread between MS64 and MS63 ($50-$75) unless you bought it real cheap between the lost value of a grade point reduction and the cost to cross you are likely to spend more than you stand to gain. You will gain some added liquidity by changing the plastic to NGC or PCGS, but I don't see the cost offset by that liquidity, but its your dime so your choice.

Well some corrections to your statement. PCGS will accept ICG and ANACS (as well as others) for crossover, you are correct that NGC only accepts PCGS coins for the crossover service at this time. NGC has in the past accepted coins in other TPG holders and I have no idea why they no longer do, my guess is it has something to do with their grade guarantee. Both companies have run into issues where after reviewing a coin in another company holder the coin has been ok'ed for cross but a problem was discovered after the coin was cracked out of the old company holder, usually a rim issue. But once the TPG has given the ok and the holder is cracked the new TPG is on the hook for the unseen issue. I assume that NGC allows PCGS coins to be crossed because they feel that both NGC and PCGS are considered the top TPG's and that PCGS's grading is the closest and most accurate when compared to NGC.

1) I believe the guide is compiled from auction results, I'm not sure what auction sites and while it is updated only NGC knows how frequently it is updated. 2) Tough to generalize as quality and desirability of the coins, and the small number of eyeballs that see the BST forum are big factors. I don't think the BST prices are much lower than what could be realized from another venue (maybe 10-25% less than Ebay as an example), but the small number of people that see the threads limits the possible sales. 3) For common coins many dealers will use the bluesheet (the bluesheet and graysheet is a paid subscription that dealers can buy and is similar to your Kelly blue book thought) as a guide for offer/buy prices on common coins. For Better date, more desirable, and eye appealing coins some dealers will get closer to retail especially if they have a ready buyer/buyers for that material. 4) What JKK said. 5) The greysheet is what some dealers use to price common coins. For collectors the best source is to look at Heritage (Heritage Auctions) and Ebay closed auctions for guidance on what items are selling for. You will see a bell curve for most coins and grades with the outliers being the superb and the dog examples at each end of the curve. At the end of the day what you have to sell and to how is key to realized price. A dealer needs to buy at 60-70% of retail to make money, selling to a dealer is the fastest way to sell coins but you will most likely receive the least amount. Consigning to auction houses may or may not result in a better return but there are fees involved. Selling yourself should net the biggest return but will require the most time to research, list, ship, etc.

There is no thread or place where orders are shared on this site, the logical location for such a thread would be in the US/World coin section of the forums. I don't really see it gaining much traction tho as we have very few regular posters, and of those I have no idea how many submit on any regular basis.

I have seen at least one other example of this and die polishing is the logical explanation. Notice that a portion of the coat under the bow tie is also missing, must have been a bad clash or perhaps a small section of the die broke off.

AU53 and MS63 is my call on grades.

Still in the GSA holder ungraded with a touch of color.

Looks like a bit of a reflection doesn't look like toning to me.

Sorry I don't have an answer as I've never consigned to Stacks, but I think its safe to say that there will be some additional charge for them to have your coins graded. Auction fees can be negotiated if you have very expensive, high demand, or a very high volume of coins to consign. Last I knew the sellers fee was 10% of the hammer, but that may be higher today. Best of luck, just a side note you can sell your coins here in the Coin Marketplace section of the NGC forums. There is no charge to sell and you don't have to have the coins graded and slabbed to do so; follow the rules and provide good quality photos and you might find a buyer or two. The down side is the limited number of people that will see what you have for sale here.