Coinbuf

Never be sorry for being right In all honesty if the op had shown the full slab pic with the grade blocked out I think the guesses would have been higher. The slab photo shows the luster where the op photos made the coin look dull, this exercise points out just how difficult it is to grade from photos. The same coin with different lighting or angles or even just the photo resolution can give very different looks and results. I still feel that the coin has too many distractions to warrant a 66 grade, but its a fairly clean CC and color very often gets a grade bump in todays market grading world.

Congrats on the find.

Does not change my opinion.

Flashing neon sign that says "I need to buy!!!". Ok in all seriousness I don't think there is that much you can do, dealers have been complaining about the inability to acquire quality numismatic coins for some time now. Other than making your sign bigger than the other guys, make sure and ask anyone that walks up to your table not only are they are looking for anything but if they have any coins to sell.

In your earlier posts you claim that you sent one coin out to GC already, is that not correct? You can also check into Heritage, Stacks & Bowers; these three are the biggest auction houses with the most visibility. If you want to try a smaller boutique auction experience you could contact Legend Numismatics.

More color than usual for a CC. The strike is strong but just short of full, note the cheek is not round and full but the cotton bolls are well defined. Some of the usual "CC" bag marks but they are well hidden by the tone, at least in this photo angle anyway. These photos are not ideal to guess the grade, the lighting makes it difficult to really discern the amount of luster. But knowing that PCGS loves luster and color in the grading room my guess is PCGS gave it a color bump and said MS65. I would be with Greg at MS64 if I were grading it.

There are two of these on ebay right now for $600, and another three jokers asking between $600 and $800ish for MS67's. You had better get realistic with your price, this is not etsy the members here are collectors and dealers that know the market. If your goal is to make a name for yourself as a fair and honest seller your not off to a very good start.

Welcome to the forum, I will just echo a few of the thoughts already put forth. Photos that are cropped in focus and properly oriented are a must if you expect to have any success selling be it here or on any on-line platform. You are new and unknown here selling some expensive items so don't be surprised if people are not beating your door down to buy. While it is not often there have been scam attempts tried on forums like this so members may be a bit wary of new members with high dollar items. If you can provide any references from well known national dealers that may help ease any concerns that a potential buyer may have. Perhaps the use of a third party dealer to facilitate the transaction as an option also. Best of luck and I am looking forward to seeing the items you have to sell.

They have been discussed, I forget if that was here or on another coin forum; but the consensus was not good.

I will agree with all that has been said, from a strict financial standpoint it this is not a coin that you would want to spend $30-$50 (that is the cost of grading and the two way postage) to have graded unless it was a lock for a PF70 grade. Which from your photos I do not think is possible. However, there are many coins sent in to the grading companies for reasons other than only financial. So if you have a personal or sentimental attachment and want it graded and encapsulated for a personal reason than I wish you the best luck and I hope you get a high grade.

Is Zoins even a member here? I know he posts on the PCGS forum a lot but do not recall seen his name here.

Just what is a serious error anyway? I do not recall that numismatic term in any of the books that I have read. But to your question its just damaged, likely spent significant time in the local Walmart parking lot.

Ten digit PCI, both the nine and ten digit cert number slabs are generally seen as well graded to even undergraded at times. Once PCI went to the fourteen digit cert number, in this style of slab, is when they lost credibility in the marketplace. I don't have the info with me but I believe that the fourteen digit change was done at the time the company changed hands and the grading became very loose. After that they went to the newer slab style with the gold border and those are the slabs that you want to stay away from; imo. A very nice key date coin in a collectable slab that could bring a modest premium just because of the slab to the right buyer, you would very likely be throwing away money by cracking that coin out.

More often than you might think, and certainly more often than we all wish for.

***DO NOT CRACK THAT*** I hope I said that loud enough, that does not look like and ICG slab but either a PCI or Hallmark. Can you post a reverse photo of the slab please.

Well you could always attempt a cross or crackout and have NGC grade them if the 6FS is that important to you, not saying that you should but you could. As to your original question Greg nailed it, in the NGC registry every PCGS FS coin that I have seen has always been scored as 5FS.

There still seems to be a bit of the PVC still on the coin, it is much better but a second bath in clean acetone is what I would recommend. As to condition it is certainly mint state I would be conservative and say MS62 at best, with a chance at being called MS details scratched. There are a couple of long scratches that don't look like contact marks from the photos, especially the first photos. A very nice coin to place in an album but not one that I would consider sending in for grading.

So no info forthcoming on where you found this gem of information about 1947-S cents??

Yes some people are gamblers, although the way ebay works now it is not that much of a gamble. As a buyer you can always return anything, even months later and even if the seller states that he has a no return policy. And then you also have the buyers that just don't know what they are bidding on, uninformed possibly elderly individuals that think the sellers are legit and above board. Very often on forums like this you see folks posting proudly the gems they just bought only to find out they have been taken. It is this last group that these sellers want to find because those buyers are unlikely to do a SNAD, they (or their heirs) will be stuck with the polished damaged junk at inflated prices. Because the sellers are ripping people off for a lot of money they just consider the sales to gamblers that do get returned as the cost of doing business.

The coin you have is worth $.01, would you care to elaborate on just where you found this bit of information on 1947-S US cents being worth big money and highly sought after. I have been a cent collector myself for over 40 years and I do not know of anyone that considers the 1947-S cent as highly sought after. I caution you to be carful with the youtube garbage, those guys would not know highly sought after from junk they are after clicks not the dissemination of good information.

Welcome to the forum. Without photos we cannot give you any information on the coin you bought regarding what it could grade or if in fact it is a genuine coin and not a counterfeit. If you send the coin to NGC they will grade and encapsulate the coin with the grade on the label as long as the coin is genuine. In the unfortunate situation that NGC determines the coin not to genuine the coin will be returned to you with no grade or possibly (in the case of a damaged coin) with a net grade and an short notation of the damage. This area of the NGC website is a good place to start learning about grading. NGC guide to grading There are numerous books that have been written about the grading of coins, so many in fact that it is hard to pin down the best but I have found this an excellent reference. Coin grading and counterfeit detection

Just to add to much of what has been said, all the major auction sites are completely safe, I have used GC for both buying and selling and have bought lots from Stacks, and Heritage with no issues ever. To be honest the photos of all the auction houses could be better, my suggestion is to buy a low value item from one or two of the auction firms. That way you can see a lot in hand and compare what you see to the photos, I consider this part of the research process. Be very critical, scour the photos looking for any microscopic thing that looks off. I am not aware of any auction house that actively deceives but they do at times embellish so do not just rely on the description, be a detective and look for any previous auction history of any coin you are interested in. If a coin has been auctioned by a different auction house previously there may be photos from that previous auction that you can compare to a current one. In the past auctions were a way to get coins at a discount sometimes, today by the time you add in the buyer fees and shipping you are often very close to retail. But every now and then you find a lot that flies under the radar and good deals can still be found via the auction route. Auctions are a great resource as long as you do your research and control yourself so you do not get caught up in a bidding war unless it is a coin you just must have.

Yes several reasons, some coins designs just wear faster than others. So a die can wear faster than the opposing die depending on the design elements, some designs may induce cracks more frequently than others which would require it to be changed sooner. And there are other issues such as clashing and the subsequent polishing of the dies to remove clash marks, one die may require more polishing than the other. Or one die may come into contact with some debris; a strike through as an example; which could damage the die and necessitate its replacement. And then there is operator error which could potentially damage only one die.