Just Bob

If that is the definition of numismatist, I fear we have set the bar way too low.
I have a fairly extensive, well-rounded numismatic book collection, which I read and consult frequently. I also do a good bit of reading online, as well as watching videos of lectures and  presentations. I'm on the couch every night with my laptop and pen & notepad, making notes and recording auction results of the tokens that I collect, and other coins that I am interested in. However, in no way do I consider myself a true numismatist. I am just a guy who likes coins and tokens. 

If that is the definition of numismatist, I fear we have set the bar way too low.
I have a fairly extensive, well-rounded numismatic book collection, which I read and consult frequently. I also do a good bit of reading online, as well as watching videos of lectures and  presentations. I'm on the couch every night with my laptop and pen & notepad, making notes and recording auction results of the tokens that I collect, and other coins that I am interested in. However, in no way do I consider myself a true numismatist. I am just a guy who likes coins and tokens. 

If that is the definition of numismatist, I fear we have set the bar way too low.
I have a fairly extensive, well-rounded numismatic book collection, which I read and consult frequently. I also do a good bit of reading online, as well as watching videos of lectures and  presentations. I'm on the couch every night with my laptop and pen & notepad, making notes and recording auction results of the tokens that I collect, and other coins that I am interested in. However, in no way do I consider myself a true numismatist. I am just a guy who likes coins and tokens. 

If that is the definition of numismatist, I fear we have set the bar way too low.
I have a fairly extensive, well-rounded numismatic book collection, which I read and consult frequently. I also do a good bit of reading online, as well as watching videos of lectures and  presentations. I'm on the couch every night with my laptop and pen & notepad, making notes and recording auction results of the tokens that I collect, and other coins that I am interested in. However, in no way do I consider myself a true numismatist. I am just a guy who likes coins and tokens. 

And now, your name will officially be recorded for posterity as the discoverer of this variety. Pretty cool. 

If you're using an Android phone you can touch the button that says "Add Files". That will open up your photo file on your phone. Select the picture you want to post, and it should upload automatically. If the file size is too big, try opening the picture with your phone's editing software and crop the picture to the edge of the coin on all sides. While you're at it, make sure your coin is oriented correctly. In other words make sure Abe isn't standing on his head.  (Actually, you should do this whether your file size is too big or not.) If the file is still too big, you will have to resize the picture. This can possibly be done with your phone software, as well.
I'm not sure if it works the same way on an iphone. I've never owned one.

I went after one of those recently. It sold for about $100 more than my bid.
If token prices keep climbing, I may have to move into collecting stamps.

And one more 🌞
 

Hello folks, I'm new here and to grading. I focus on 1893 World's Fair/Columbian Exposition tokens, medals and tickets but collect just about anything from that fair. I had 20 tokens graded back in May for my first ever submission and I have 40 more in for grading now. Here are 2 rarities that I just picked up and plan to send in for grading in the next group I submit. Hope you like them!
 

I had a really good friend send me a token that was one of the early owners of the brickyard my pawpaw on my moms side worked at. He also sent me a brick that my pawpaw very well could have made. Im so grateful to him for that  That is a very special gift. I plan on making some kind of display out of it . It was known as the Louisville Firebrick Co the time he worked there. Its hard to read in the picture due to the lighting but in hand its very easy to read.

Here’s a few more new purchases 🌞
 


 

…the question is, r u a turtle or a person_too_unaware_of_social_graces?….

The Adams Lumber Company was incorporated in 1896 and operated a mill that the Adams brothers had built in 1892, located two miles south of Morton, Mississippi in Scott County. The mill remained in operation until 1904.
This 5 cent token is unlisted. The only other known denomination is a $1.00 token.
 

( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.)
The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors.  To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize.
Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions:
Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.)
Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.

1951 Commemorative 5 cent coin depicting a nickel refinery
Canada's first commemorative 5 cent and the last business strike struck in 100% nickel
 

( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.)
The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors.  To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize.
Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions:
Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.)
Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.

( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.)
The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors.  To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize.
Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions:
Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.)
Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.

According to CoinfinderDave's first post, his coin has no date. That is probably why he asked how to tell what the composition was.
 
To Dave: if you are using your phone to take pics and post here, try using the edit function to crop your photo. If that doesn't reduce the file size under 4.88 MB, then use the edit function to resize. If your phone does not have this capability, your app store should have a free app to edit photos. 
If using a pc or laptop, MSPaint is the perhaps easiest way to resize. I reduce most of my pictures by 50%, or more, and they are still large enough to see details without taking up the whole page.