Just Bob

That's a good looking nickel. Nice cameo contrast.

Yeah, that is exactly why this forum was created: so a bunch of old guys could come together and share their feelings.

James brings up an interesting point that I did not consider in my earlier post. If the clash is prominent and in an interesting spot, and can be given a catchy name, like on the "Bugs Bunny" Franklin half dollar, then it will often bring a premium. Being common actually works in the coin's (or the seller's) favor, in this case.

You nailed the grades on these two in your prediction. Just curious: what grades did you have in mind for the 1970 Krona that scored a 64, and the '74 50 Aurar that got an MS68?

Yep

This looks like an extreme case of die erosion, with what may be some strike doubling thrown in for good measure.

Generally speaking, yes. It also helps if the coin is uncirculated. Error collecting is a pretty narrow field, so the value is often dependent on who is in the market for a certain type, and how bad they want it.

That is because you picked a coin that didn't have 257 VAM numbers

3D

It is visible.

Look at the page linked below. It is the NGC Coin Explorer page for the 1962 proof Jefferson. Scroll down to the prices listed, and use the "PF," PF CA," and "PF UC" tabs to search past auction prices. You can also go to the page for the 1963 by looking above the words JEFFERSON FIVE CENTS, where it says "1963 5c PF." You will find that, in order for it to be financially prudent to have your coins graded, they will have to grade PF69 Ultra Cam. I don't think either of your coins will qualify. Neither looks cameo on both sides, to me. Enjoy them as they are. Link

If you look closely, you can see the image of the wreath around "ONE CENT." It isn't an error. It is post-mint damage.

Cool.

Was this in the cash register? I am curious as to what value in US Dollars was placed on it if it was spent.

Nice bit of sleuthing. Would you mind giving a bit more background and explanation of your opening statement, "This document just arrived from Scotland"? I am really curious about what led you to request it in the first place, and how you went about it.

Another unusual one: a uniface cardboard token from Vicksburg, MS, good for ten cents worth of ice. At that time, 1920, that was probably at least 25 lbs of ice, maybe more. This would likely have been in block form, delivered to your icebox.

Welcome to the forum. It is a crying shame that, when someone posts pictures of their new raw purchases, rather than congratulate them and brag on their coins, we have to be concerned about whether the coins are products of our "friends" across the Pacific. I am so frustrated with not only the counterfeiters and the complicit government that supports them, but places like Etsy, Mercari, and yes, Ebay, that allow garbage to be pushed on trusting buyers, and do little or nothing to stop it. Sorry to rant on your post, but this is a sore spot. They look good, and I hope they are authentic, but this is definitely not my area of expertise. I sincerely hope they are genuine.

I do, but I am going by two fuzzy pictures, so I may be mistaken. It looks like the line goes from the collar to the rim.

In that case, it's a "no" on the plus. And, that is not due to what looks like chatter on the cheek and collar. That, I am guessing, is due to the coin not striking up fully. I do, however, think I see enough small tics in the hair, fields, and on Monticello to keep it from getting the plus. Just my opinion, of course.

Without knowing the grade that it was given, it is impossible to say whether or not it deserves a plus. But, the toning is pretty enough that I believe it did receive a star.

Couldn't something have hit it, or pressed into it, rather than scratch it, and could the plating have stretched enough to not be torn? Looks like a dent, to me.

Is your grade based on a written grading guide, or is this your personal standard?

Welcome to the forum. Before you start sending coins in to be graded, I suggest doing some reading and studying to learn about things like the difference between proof and business strike coins, circulated vs mint state, etc. You need to buy a copy of A Guidebook of United States Coins, also known as the Redbook. The information in it is well worth the price. Don't get in a rush to buy a bunch of coins without first gaining some knowledge. It will save you some money and heartache.

Unless I messed up the calculation, that is 36 wheat cents. Looks to me like you overpaid a bit, unless they are BU. Circulated wheats are about 4 cents each, retail, I think.

https://www.ngccoin.com/boards/topic/413569-known-sellers-of-counterfeit-coins/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-9732145