Just Bob

Look at the page linked below. It is the NGC Coin Explorer page for the 1962 proof Jefferson. Scroll down to the prices listed, and use the "PF," PF CA," and "PF UC" tabs to search past auction prices. You can also go to the page for the 1963 by looking above the words JEFFERSON FIVE CENTS, where it says "1963 5c PF." You will find that, in order for it to be financially prudent to have your coins graded, they will have to grade PF69 Ultra Cam. I don't think either of your coins will qualify. Neither looks cameo on both sides, to me. Enjoy them as they are. Link

If you look closely, you can see the image of the wreath around "ONE CENT." It isn't an error. It is post-mint damage.

Cool.

Was this in the cash register? I am curious as to what value in US Dollars was placed on it if it was spent.

Nice bit of sleuthing. Would you mind giving a bit more background and explanation of your opening statement, "This document just arrived from Scotland"? I am really curious about what led you to request it in the first place, and how you went about it.

Another unusual one: a uniface cardboard token from Vicksburg, MS, good for ten cents worth of ice. At that time, 1920, that was probably at least 25 lbs of ice, maybe more. This would likely have been in block form, delivered to your icebox.

Welcome to the forum. It is a crying shame that, when someone posts pictures of their new raw purchases, rather than congratulate them and brag on their coins, we have to be concerned about whether the coins are products of our "friends" across the Pacific. I am so frustrated with not only the counterfeiters and the complicit government that supports them, but places like Etsy, Mercari, and yes, Ebay, that allow garbage to be pushed on trusting buyers, and do little or nothing to stop it. Sorry to rant on your post, but this is a sore spot. They look good, and I hope they are authentic, but this is definitely not my area of expertise. I sincerely hope they are genuine.

I do, but I am going by two fuzzy pictures, so I may be mistaken. It looks like the line goes from the collar to the rim.

In that case, it's a "no" on the plus. And, that is not due to what looks like chatter on the cheek and collar. That, I am guessing, is due to the coin not striking up fully. I do, however, think I see enough small tics in the hair, fields, and on Monticello to keep it from getting the plus. Just my opinion, of course.

Without knowing the grade that it was given, it is impossible to say whether or not it deserves a plus. But, the toning is pretty enough that I believe it did receive a star.

Couldn't something have hit it, or pressed into it, rather than scratch it, and could the plating have stretched enough to not be torn? Looks like a dent, to me.

Is your grade based on a written grading guide, or is this your personal standard?

Welcome to the forum. Before you start sending coins in to be graded, I suggest doing some reading and studying to learn about things like the difference between proof and business strike coins, circulated vs mint state, etc. You need to buy a copy of A Guidebook of United States Coins, also known as the Redbook. The information in it is well worth the price. Don't get in a rush to buy a bunch of coins without first gaining some knowledge. It will save you some money and heartache.

Unless I messed up the calculation, that is 36 wheat cents. Looks to me like you overpaid a bit, unless they are BU. Circulated wheats are about 4 cents each, retail, I think.

https://www.ngccoin.com/boards/topic/413569-known-sellers-of-counterfeit-coins/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-9732145

Welcome to the forum, Big Dave. Nice first post.

The OP messaged the seller's ID to me, and I added it to my list.

You may have to do something like that in two or three separate posts

Here is a link to part two. I want to specifically state, even though it is also mentioned twice in the article, that this article is based purely on hearsay. Whether it is factual or not is something that may never be provable. There is another source of information about this whole matter: one of the parties involved is a member of this forum. He has, so far, chosen not to respond, for whatever reason. He may continue to keep quiet about it, or may offer information or opinion. Either way, I respect his choice. After all, it has been almost 20 years since the incident. LINK

I have never ignored anyone. I guess I am too curious or too nosey. I find even most of the annoying posts interesting, and I would feel like I was missing something if I did not at least give myself a chance to see if I wanted to read someone's post. And, believe me, I have skipped over many posts that I felt were a waste of time to read in their entirety. I never even blocked the troll who keeps coming back after being banned, and who calls me out every time he returns with a new alt. ( To this day I still have no idea what I said or did to make him hate me so much.) There have been others who have taken potshots, too, but I don't pay much attention. Or, if I do, I get over it quickly. Life is too short to let an internet chat board control my mood.

A couple of important points: The doubling on your coin is to the right. The doubling resembling yours in the pictures on Variety Vista is to the left on the genuine DDR-001. But - here is the important part- both pictures show strike doubling. Look at the footnote at the bottom of the Variety Vista page. It says that for Stage A, the early die state, the reverse has strong MDD (machine damage doubling, another name for strike doubling). Notice that it says that Stage B has none, and the pictures bear this out. This MDD is what you are seeing. The actual hub doubling only shows up as extra thickness on DOLLAR, AMERICA, and some of the stars. Confusing? Yes, but studying lots of examples of all kinds of doubling will help improve your ability to distinguish the "good" from the "bad."

No visas available, I suppose.

According to the habitat map below, groundhogs do not live in the Deep South. I know I have never seen one in the wild. Eating them must be a Yankee thing.

I am going to guess that those lines running from 7 to 2 on the cheek are either die scratches or marks on the slab.

If you can't, that is okay. I really wanted to see the cheek on that '84. Can you show a picture of the reverse of that one?