Just Bob

Thank you.

Please explain how you intend to use this new information that you have learned about die markers to authenticate the "special frosted finish" that you feel your coin has. I honestly do not understand how it will affect the identification either way.

Am I the only one who realizes that Greg's post about mailing packages was a made-up scenario to prove a point?

If I weren't a nice guy, I could have some fun with this putting words in someone's mouth thing

Yeah, sorry for the lack of info, but, as Conder101 said, there is very little information available on modern tokens and medals. There are so many companies producing them for so many different purposes, that there is no way to keep up with all of them. If the above leads don't pan out, you might try one of the museums in Berlin that deals with local history, or maybe a historian from the university there. Unfortunately, that may not even work. There is a possibility that these were produced in another country, as part of a "National Monument" series, or something similar.

Thank you for the better pictures. The Philadelphia minted coin is a large date; the Denver minted coin is a small date. The weight is still needed to determine whether the "D" is brass or copper-coated zinc.

The website links to Capital Catering, which I believe is the restaurant in the tower. Team leader and PR Manager for the tower (or possibly just the restaurant) Kai.Kottenstede@messe-berlin.de PR assistant: Claudia.Dallmer@messe-berlin.de You might email one or both of these with pictures of your piece, and see if they can shed some more light on the subject, or at least point you in the right direction.

That was one of the oddest computer-generated SPAM posts I have ever seen.

It was a quote of a quote. That makes sense.

It does. And so does yours. You can even underline or strikethrough... or change the size. Bold, italics, or bold italics Different font Sorry, it's late. I will stop now.

This has nothing to do with the subject of the post, but did anyone notice that the above post in which Conder101 quoted pogohatesme attributed the quote to me? Curious.

I thought that was Bachman Turner Overdrive

Agreed.

I find it hard to believe that anyone who read through all of Richie's responses, with their argumentative, shouting, (yes, on the internet, that is what ALL CAPS means) smart-aleck, and sarcastic tones, ( I can cite examples if you don't want to go back and look for yourself) could honestly believe that he only wanted opinions. He received opinions from many knowledgeable people, and refused to believe any of them, continuing to argue in hopes of convincing everyone that he was right, and they were wrong. He stated he only wanted facts, but never offered any facts to support his own theory that the coin was sandblasted at the mint, which was his explanation for its appearance. He also refused to resolve the situation by sending the coin in for authentication, blaming his inactivity on members of another forum having discouraged him. I personally do not blame him for wanting to be certain that his coin was or was not something special. But, with the remedy to the situation so easily accessible, one wonders if he really wants to learn the truth.

My Collection Manager is alive and well, and I am not a paid member. I am not sure why it would be considered a paid service.

My opinion: It is damaged - caused by another coin being placed on top of it and struck repeatedly. After the first blow, the design from the lower coin was impressed into the upper coin, turning it into a "die" with an incuse design. The second blow then transferred this design back to the lower coin. This was done more than once, which is why you see backward and forward designs in different positions on your coin. The raised lines, on the reverse, and the mostly obliterated design, are from the surface on which the lower coin was resting when struck.

My Whitmans, with the exception of one of the Lincoln cent albums (1909-1940), are all populated with coins that I pulled from circulation, so the coins' conditions range from Good to high AU. The nickels are from 1938 to present; the dimes and quarters are just the clad years. I also have another album of silver Roosevelts, all in MS and proof. So, to answer your question: I don't consider any grade specifically inappropriate for an album - it just depends on the album and its designated purpose.

The date looks all wrong. It is not only much fatter, but the numbers, especially the "1," are the wrong shape, and the "4" is in the wrong place.

That is the pictured coin from Dave's Bust Half site for the O-113 variety. Gorgeous coin.

If the edges are worn, they can't be MS. Mint State (MS) means Uncirculated. An uncirculated coin can't be worn. Even evidence of slight friction is enough to downgrade a coin to AU (About Uncirculated.)

No offense intended to the artist or engraver, but that is a horrible likeness of the princess.

It's amazing - the stuff of science-fiction movies of my youth will be his normal.

Only if I did not already have one in my Whitman album. Otherwise, I would spend it.

Don't take it personally. I don't think anyone expects new posters to run out and buy hundreds of dollars worth of photography equipment just to post pictures of a coin that they found. Or, even multiple coins, for that matter. I think it is more of a longing for the days - not that many years ago - when top quality pictures were the norm - pictures posted using digital cameras. Go back and look at some of the long-running threads, like the "Follow the Lead" or "Latest Acquisition." Look at some of the work of Robec, Mark Goodman, and (many) others. The difference between those pictures and the majority of what is posted now is amazing. I know that I miss those days, myself. I remember multiple-page threads about proper photography technique, and the best type of lighting, and "which camera fits which budget," etc, etc. I remember a photo contest, where an especially hard-to-photograph coin was sent around to different members to try their hand at capturing the look of the coin. I personally never advanced beyond a Kodak point-and-shoot, but I learned a lot about how to light the coin, adjust white balance, crop and adjust the photos, etc. These days, I use a $75 Samsung Galaxy J3, so I really have no room to complain about picture quality, but I do still try to use proper lighting and technique. My pictures are nowhere near top quality, but they do all right for posting pictures of entire coins and tokens. If I ever have to try a close-up of a small area, though, I may be in trouble. Really, all we ask is that posters try to present the best quality pictures that they can, using the equipment that they have. If someone puts forth a little effort to provide me with a good picture, I certainly don't mind putting forth some effort to help them with their questions.

It appears to be RDV-006, the normal reverse die for that year for both the Philadelphia and Denver mints.