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Posts posted by Just Bob
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You are correct. Some of the older NGC 'fatties" and PCGS "rattlers" were more conservatively graded. Notice that I said, "some of..." Not all of them would grade higher if sent back in for a re-grade. I have several MS67 Roosevelts in older holders that, in my opinion, are solid for the grade, but are not candidates for an upgrade.
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As far as authenticity, I am not well-versed on these, so I won't even attempt that.
As to the grade: If the wear was confined to the high spots that are directly opposite high relief areas on the other side, I might think "weak strike." But it seems to be fairly even across most the lettering and devices, including the rim. Put that with the numerous tics and light scratches, and I will call this one in the lower AU range.
On the other hand, if it isn't real, then you can probably toss what I said above out the window. I hope it is real. It is a nice looking piece.
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Your link took me to a page that asked me to register with CONECA. Nothing against the organization, but I will pass, at least for now.
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On 2/11/2022 at 7:25 AM, kerisinc said:
Ty coinbuf. And unfortunately, I do not have a microscope yet.
If you can take pictures like that with a phone or camera, you may not need a microscope.
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Welcome to the forum.
Cleaning coins is generally regarded as a bad idea, since it changes the appearance of the coin, and makes it appear unnatural. So, the standard response, when someone asks about cleaning, is, "DON'T!" Forget all of the Youtube videos about soaking in vinegar or using a pencil eraser. All that will do is make your coins worth face value, or not much more.
There are, however, a few (mostly) safe methods that you can try. One is to soak your coins in distilled water. Another is to use a light oil, like mineral oil, to try to loosen any crud or corrosion. Be advised that what is under the crud or corrosion may not look much better than what was there before, but that is a chance you take with reactive metals like copper or silver. Another oil that is popular is olive oil. It is slightly acidic, however, and may have an effect of the color of copper coins. A soak in oil usually takes weeks to months, and I have left tokens soaking for over a year. You just have to check them periodically to see if the appearance is changing. And, I have found that it is best to soak coins individually. I discolored a token by soaking it with some Indian Head cents once, so I always separate them now. Acetone is good for flushing off PVC or other residue that a coin might have gotten from being stored improperly. It may not do as well for a verdigris problem as a long oil soak.
If you have any other questions, feel free to post them.
- Coinbuf, tj96 and Primus fan
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I wouldn't normally click on an unknown outside link, for fear of a virus, etc., but I took a chance, and this one was worth it. Great looking coins.
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We do all understand that this coin is not real, right?
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On 2/7/2022 at 12:56 PM, tejas1836 said:
I believe the customer service representative was mistaken.
The following is from the NGC website:
NGC utilizes numerous other designations that do not, however, constitute varieties. These include designations such as FH for Full Head, FT for Full Torch and FBL for Full Bell Lines. Likewise, the designations BN, RB and RD for Brown, Red-Brown and Red, respectively, are not varieties. NGC assigns a + to coins at the high end of their assigned grade, approaching the quality requirements for the next grade. The coveted star designation is utilized by NGC to identify coins that have exceptional eye appeal that distinguish them from other coins of the same technical grade. All of these are designations that NGC's graders look for in the normal course of grading. They are not classified as varieties, they do not require an additional fee, and they do not need to be submitted under VarietyPlus.
This issue needs to be addressed by NGC. Giving out untrue information is not good for a company's reputation, especially with turnaround times being so much longer than the stated estimated time.
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On 2/7/2022 at 1:17 PM, Kath13 said:Tejas, if this is so why did they not add FBL on my coin? My Franklin half dollar is graded PF 67.
There is your answer. Proof (PF) coins are assumed to always be fully struck, so they do not receive Full Bell Lines or Full Torch designations. Those, and other strike related designations are only given to circulation strike coins.
- RonnieR131, Coinbuf, JT2 and 1 other
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Take care, Brother.
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On 2/6/2022 at 5:51 PM, Dimeslot said:Or perhaps you're just not knowledgeable enough to add specific information of value.
You just couldn't help yourself, could you? You just had to throw that little schoolyard insult in there because someone said something you didn't like.
There was nothing vague about what Coinbuf said. NCS can't fix your coin. Simple answer. No elaboration or explanation necessary. The fact that it was not what you wanted to hear, does not make it untrue. Or vague.
Welcome to the forum. Expect honest, straightforward answers, even if you don't like or agree with them.
- VKurtB, Coinbuf, James Zyskowski and 3 others
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On 2/4/2022 at 7:51 PM, Hoghead515 said:
This lot consist of four 25c, four 50c, and two $1 tokens. Im very excited to add a couple $1 tokens in with the others. Not sure what all is in a full set of them but it would be really cool to get a whole set eventually.
Looks like they had tokens in denominations of 5, 10, 25, and 50 cents, and $1.
Here is the Tokencatalog.com page for Grahn, KY. It will be interesting to see if your two $1 tokens have the same misspelling as the one shown.
- Mohawk and Hoghead515
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OP, is there anyway you can post new pictures, straight on, and without the glare?
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The hairlines indicate a vigorous cleaning, and the rim hits look too severe to slab, as well. I do like the design, though. Very classic looking. If you could find a way for the coin to obtain a little natural patina, I think it would help the look a bit.
- Alex in PA. and Coinbuf
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On 2/3/2022 at 12:20 PM, SirDubre said:
Thanks Bob.
Just to Clarify, if I bought a AU 55 Whizzed coin, it'd be more likely valued (price wise) like a VF or F?
Correct.
I should also add that some series fare better when it comes to certain types of damage. A 1793 chain cent that was dug from the ground and labeled "Environmental Damage" would retain much more of its value than an Indian cent with the same type of damage. LIkewise, cleaning coins was acceptable, even sometimes encouraged, in the not-too-distant past. It is not unusual to find Seated Liberty or Barber coins that have been lightly wiped or dipped in jewelry cleaner. Some collectors are a bit more forgiving in these situations, but most people these days want "original surfaces."
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Welcome to the forum.
Each coin/series should be considered on a case by case basis, since some forms of damage, like a very mild cleaning, are less obtrusive than others, such as whizzing or deep scratches. The more obvious the damage, the more reduction in value one can expect.
As a general rule of thumb, though, you can expect the value of a problem coin to drop the equivalent of 2 to 3 letter grades. For example, if the coin is graded XF Details, it would probably bring Fine or Very Good money.
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Does that mean that this paragraph from Wexler's "How Dies Are Made" is not accurate, or am I still confusing things?
When the Janvier Reduction Lathe was introduced in 1907, the first two digits of the date began to appear on the galvano and thus on the master hubs. This was done so that the master hub could be used to make master dies over a period of several years. Starting with the Lincoln cents in 1909, the last two digits of the date were engraved into the master die for each year.
Mr. Eureka asked: "What the one auction ever held that you would like to somehow magically attend today?"
in US, World, and Ancient Coins
Posted
Although there was not much in the auction that I could afford at today's prices, I would love the chance to go back in time and view the Buddy Ebsen collection. He had some amazing coins - quite a few that were finest known examples.