EagleRJO

Looks very similar to the 1/10 ounce (3.11g) 2011 Smithsonian Institute Restrikes of the 1861 CSA Cent (note the "SI" under the "T" in Cent on the reverse). I don't know why they call them "restrikes" because they are different than the original and later actual restrikes of the CSA cents which both used the same dies. That one is definitely not silver or platinum, and unless that's real gold and somehow managed to get taken out of it's NGC holder (not likely) it's just a cheap reproduction. However, you may want to do a simple specific gravity test (with a scale, small clear cup of water and a string) or take it to a local coin or jewelry shop that has an XRF tester to have it checked.

Just curious if it relates to this coin ... 2000-P $1 Speared Eagle

I guess you had to know of Monty Python's Flying Circus tv show to get it as that is a reference to one of their funnier sketches of that title, along with other silly classics like " How Not to Be Seen", "Mosquito Hunters" or the "Hospital" sketches.

They are really beat to snot and it's a lot more damage than I have ever seen in rolls of coins or expected could occur from just normal handling. Where did you get rolls that old? And these discussions of Home Rolls is making me hungry too.

First, the topic is from 2022 with the op long gone (caught again PM ), so it's pointless responding to them. Second, the only thing "massive" is how the extra thickness of the date is described by Wexler's for a WDDO-011 (varies from that down to "light" for the 2 dozen or so DDs). However, I do agree that 1C DDO-011 is pretty significant for post single-squeeze hubbing given the doubling not only of the date but other elements as well. Most of them you can barely notice.

I generally agree with others that the 2015 dimes appear to be the result of a strikethrough possibly combined with misaligned or tilted dies, and that the 1983 dimes appear to be the result of weak strikes possibly combined with slightly misaligned dies and some wear. But in the future you really should post pics of both sides to be more definitive. Also, dont confuse these issues with worn or deteriorated dies which result in mushy or fuzzy elements across the entire coin, especially at lower relief elements first, and not just in one particular area. This is often combined with chips and cracks in the die as they become more worn. Die wear is a little like coin wear but usually the opposite in terms of how that presents first.

That is my main question, where I have a good handle on the other issues. For comparison the attached half eagle is one that I have graded AU which has the most marks. Whereas, the one I am considering posted above seems to have more marks or small scratches than that, in addition to the dings on the reverse. I really didn't want a Details or XF graded coin in the collection which is all AU, low MS or BU coins.

You are trying to make sense out of complete nonsense, and if continued you will eventually end up blowing a brain head gasket and wind up like a Monty Python "Gumby" character with a white napkin on your head walking around in circles yelling "my brain hurts".

That is too bad it's actually on the coin as I have been faked out by stuff on the capsule and was hoping that was it. It doesn't look like something soaking it in acetone might help, but you never know and that won't hurt the coin. I guess you just live with it, or return it and put that towards a new one at a loss.

Or at the bottom of a post, just below where you type, go to where there is a paper clip symbol and it says "Drag files here to attach, or choose files ..." and click on the underlined "choose files". That will open a pop up window for you to find and select the images you want to attach to the post.

My gut reaction is to pass, but this year at a reasonable price in a low MS or AU grade has been eluding me for a while with the two larger dealers I typically work with on raw coins. So I might give this smaller outfit a shot, who has been around a while and seems to have a good reputation. But I'm not sure this one might end up in the Details category.

You must be going through nickel rolls like crazy. The girls at the bank probably see you comming and have a handful of them out before you even get to the counter.

Are you sure the mark is on the coin and not on the capsule? And if on the coin why not simply return it for an exchange?

I know gold coins are tough to grade or authenticate from photos, and would have to carefully look at this in-hand if I even go there (particularly with this being a commonly counterfeited coin), but have a question about this raw 1909-D $5 Indian Head Gold Half Eagle listed as AU from a small rare coin dealer called ToughCoins. I do see some signs of minor wear, but no indication of weak details like at the headdress around the ear or lower left wing feathers. I also don't see indications of tooling marks in typical spots, like around the neck. However, my real issue is there seems to be quite a lot of smaller fine contact marks, as well as two heavier dings near the rim on the reverse around 11 o'clock. More visible contact marks can be expected given the soft metal, and standards note that surfaces for lower grades may be "lightly marred by minor bag marks and abrasions". I have a number of raw and graded half eagles and other gold coins, all with at least some of these fine contact marks, but not to the extent that I see on this coin. Do you think that would just lower the grade, or is that enough to knock it into a Details grade.

I would take that with pounds of salt, not just a grain, and stick with more reputable coin collecting sites.

What forum and what error did they identify the coin as having? The lowest point would be the fields, and with that much wear it would be impossible to figure out which elements started to wear first, which would typically be Lincoln's head on the obverse and the "wheat ears" on the reverse. See the "Photograde" link Sandon provided for examples of how very worn Lincoln wheat cents look.

I agree with Greenstang that it looks like there may have been a chip of the die at the inner part of the "D" mintmark, and then the coin subsequently took a hit there. Minor die cracks or chips like that are very common, and are just considered a normal part of die wear from striking coins which doesn't add any value. Unless you are using the scope to quickly check coins while roll hunting, I would put the scope away until it is actually needed, for say coin authentication or variety attribution, as it can lead you down rabbit holes with how much it can show. It can also lead you astray on grading with all the imperfections it shows. Die Chips: https://www.error-ref.com/die-chips/ Tools Article: https://www.pcgs.com/news/tools-of-a-professional-coin-grader

Not to come off as being harsh, but if you think there are things "going on" with this coin which might be errors you may need to start over from scratch learning about how coins are made, and how they wear and can become damaged once in circulation, as well as what error coins are. Maybe start with the links Sandon provided as well as the pinned topics at the top of this sub-forum.

I don't see any DDRs listed for that quarter and it appears to be shelf-like or "worthless" machine doubling. https://doubleddie.com/144801.html

You can't "take down" or delete a topic or individual posts, you can only edit your posts. And I don't think it was a stupid question at all, just poorly worded initially. The topics of cleaning or conserving older coins are important ones for newer collectors to understand.

Just to recap what others said this is not an error coin, it's just damage that occured after it left the mint. It's not plating, but just a foreign substance that got on the coin. I wouldn't worry about trying to remove it since it may be epoxy and wouldn't serve any purpose. The important point is that the coin isn't an error coin, which is an anomaly or mistake which occurs at the mint. If you go to the pinned resources topic at the top of this subforum there is additional information about error coins and how to identify them.

YT does have some good or interesting stuff like vids from the TPGs, industry associations like ANA, and that one on how these magicians coins are made. It's not like it will allow Vinny Vice Job the Coin Mangler to make one in his mom's basement.

Here is a video on how the Magician's Coins are made, where it looks like the op's coin may be the first half of that since the rim appears to still be intact on the milled side. It is just damaged, but still an interesting find. Is the coin as I described with an intact significantly raised rim on the blank side, where did you find it, and any chance of finding the insert piece. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXOXPZ0VKFM

That's because you always call "tails".

Translation: I have no clue what I am talking about, but I am going to go ahead and post some random stuff anyway before I go hide under a rock after people realize that. And I never knew that a "double die" (as opposed to the usual "doubled die") is called a "dice". You learn something new every day.