EagleRJO

That's a very old thread with the op long gone. The post you quoted was with the old inaccurate scale they had which was reading about 0.5g over. So that 1982-D SD cent likely had an actual weight around 2.5g consistent with copper plated zinc, which is not the super rare one.

In general I agree with holding off on submittals until you are better able to roughly grade and value coins yourself, with a few exceptions. Why did you want to submit coins for grading?

It looks like a match to me also.

It sounds like you are describing a rotated die error. You can use the attached gauge to get a better measurement of that, but at that rotation it's not that rare and would only add some value. https://www.error-ref.com/rotated_die_error/

It does not look like a late stage capped die as there is only a partial loss of detail in particular areas. The additional pics doesn't change my opinion that it's a combination of wear and grease on the die due to the marked loss of detail in lower relief areas.

No, that's not worth submitting as Sandon noted.

Similar period coins in pretty good condition seem to go for under about $100, and in raw worn condition under around $20. So I can't see this 1573 Tuscany 1/2 Piastra coin being worth very much in that condition unless you found two people who just had to have that year for that particular coin, which doesn't seem very likely at all. Maybe @JKK who is a more familiar with ancients could chime in here.

Then why spend money on grading? If you post focused cropped pics of both sides you could get some better feedback. But unless it has a CC mintmark and is in decent condition it likely wouldn't be worth very much or make sense to submit the coin.

If I am providing an opinion I always check if it's a retread as the op is likely long gone. You my friend are a completely different case.

Unfortunately even if that is a true doubled die it wouldn't be worth much at all without matching a previously attributed variety, which it does not as Sandon noted, and it is relatively minor. Sites like Etsy/eBay are full of coins with borderline worthless machine doubling held out as doubled dies without any attribution, where many buyers simply can't tell the difference. And even if attributed, selling it raw would likely not go for very much from looking at recent completed listings for similar items with minor attributed doubling. If you truly believe it's a legit doubled die you may want to submit it to CONECA as noted. But I think that would be more for personal satisfaction of having found a previously unknown variety for a 1971 quarter, however unlikely, as that would probably not increase the value to anything really worth selling or submitting to a TPG if eventually recognized as it is so minor.

Another ancient thread resurrected for no apparent reason.

Have you thought about doing an NGC Registry Set for your Washington Quarters? They have circulation issue sets for 1932-1998 (149 coins) and 1965-1998 (65 coins). Although they don't have sets specifically for PL/DPL coins it might be a good way to track and/or showcase the coins you have in your collection. https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive/united-states/quarter-dollars/

That's a pretty strong statement coming from someone who doesn't like cats!

For modern coins I would just get rolls from the bank to go through. I have been doing that for quite a while and just ask for rolls when I am at a bank getting some cash, and return rolls I have gone through the next time I am there. If you have a local bank you go to regularly talk to the tellers and let them know you are a coin collector and that you go through rolls looking for particular coins. There are even some members, like @J P M , that have become friendly enough with certain tellers such that they put aside unusual looking coins for them.

Why would you think the coin you posted is an early die stage of the op's coin given it doesn't have the same loss of detail in the grease filled areas, and what die markers are you seeing which match up to indicate that.

Looks like a combination or wear, contact and coin wrapper damage with the latter evidenced by the circular scrape that goes through the mintmark and other characters.

It does not appear to be the correct color for a 1958 Centavo, which also would weigh about 2.50 grams as well as have a 16.76 mm diameter, and it doesn't look like they were produced at the Denver mint. A typical 1958 cent would have a specified weight of 3.1 grams and 19.0 mm diameter.

Yea, the plated zinc cents started to be used in 1982, so that 1973 cent would be 95% copper. The "bumps" are likely minor die defects like chips as noted.

When looking at values of coins from sites like eBay make sure they are sold listings and not just asking prices which can be outrageous, and keep in mind there are sometimes anomalies. NGC has a price guide at the following link which seems to be pretty reasonable in general, and for verification you can look up completed auctions at reputable auction sites like Great Collections and Heritage Auctions. https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/united-states/

There is no "forward" looking number "1", just a vertical line on a regular 1958 cent. So that is likely just a die chip.

What coin shop gave you the false indication that this coin may be struck on a wrong planchet and might be worth submitting so that others can avoid that shop.

From your last post with the circled areas I think what may be the issue is you are comparing what is on your copper 1909 (P) cent to coins that have little wear, and therefore it looks different or wider. But there is nothing unusual about that. Copper is a soft metal and over time will tend to get mashed down and widen from being in circulation. If you go to CoinFacts and look at images of similar worn cents you will see there is nothing unusual about your coin. For example see the attached comparison of the "GO" from the obverse of your coin (left) and that same area on a significantly worn 1909 cent that had been in circulation from CoinFacts (right), and therefore has similarly widened some of the letters.

I see some doubling, but it appears to be the "worthless" type ... http://doubleddie.com/144801.html And no it shouldn't be submitted if Kurt didn't make that clear.

There is no doubling on your coin, just wear and contact, and there is usually only one place someone can get info that completely misleads them like that. My comments are directed more to those who perpetrate the disinformation. You may want to start over learning about doubling at the following site, which also has listings with photos and markers for known doubled dies including those for your coin. https://doubleddie.com/