EagleRJO

I seriously doubt that anyone who may qualify for the EB-5 program would be asking a friend to post questions about work visas on a coin collectors board.

"Dipping" involves submerging the coin in an acid solution to remove tarnish ("toning" nowadays) and brighten the coin. Cleaning involves using solutions and mechanical means to remove dirt and grime from a coin. Some consider that dipping a coin also cleans it, but that's not really the purpose of dipping a coin, and the PCG$ grading code 92 for cleaning specifically excludes that, stating "Dipping (the removal of toning with a chemical bath) is not considered cleaning ..." Also note per your question that if a coin has been dipped or cleaned, even if it's not clearly visible to an average collector, there is always a chance the TPG will detect this and assign a Details designation. There are some coins that are given a Details designation by a TPG where I and other collectors are left scratching our heads as to why the coin was designated as "Details". Many older coins were "dipped" at some point in the past, as a while ago collectors wanted the blast white appearance. However, many older coins with collections, still in bank bags or rolls, or with dealers that didn't agree it was good practice are still out in the wild that have not been dipped. Sound advice. Learning how to evaluate and grade coins is the most difficult and the most important thing to learn before buying coins. I have been working on that for quite a while now, and still have difficulty differentiating the mint state grades. I would start with circulated grades and then work into mint state coins, initially using just the NGC adjectival grades (e.g. VF or XF) and then later numerical grades. In addition to the ANA grading class, I would recommend getting the ANA Grading Standards and watching as many ANA eLearning vids on their website and ANA YouTube vids related to grading you can get your hands on, as well as PCG$ CoinFacts for comparison coins.

Agreed that pics are too blurry in order to tell much, but it does have the appearance of having been dipped.

Hmmm, I was expecting the X-1 coin to have the "Funf Reichmark" (5 Mark) on the reverse, similar to enlarged example RWB gave. Interesting.

Agreed except for the ANA videos, many of which are excellent.

Can you post pictures of the reverse for both.

The pic of the coin edge shows a slight copper color with the core of a clad coin comprised of 75% copper, and the weight at 5.7g definitively establishes it is a clad copper-nickel coin and not silver. The mint spec for a clad coin is 5.670g, so that is spot on. The mint spec for silver is 6.250g, which isn't even close considering tolerances. Plus, it just wouldn't make sense as there wouldn't even be silver quarter planchets at that mint which could have accidently been used. The coin shop telling you it was silver, when it isn't, tells you that they can not be trusted to give you accurate information.

Looks like machine doubling

I not that familiar with these, but I do know the currency at the time in Germany was the Mark designated with an "M". So it seems the first one posted is a medal and the second one posted is currency, likely with distinctly different reverses. https://www.ngccoin.com/census/world/karl-goetz-medals-keinast/sc-379/silver/ https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/germany-weimar-republic-5-mark-x-84-1927-cuid-1178922-duid-1320236

Did you forget your glasses Bill? What may look like a top loop of a "6" is just a crease in the flip. [P.S. I did a double take when I first looked at it too. ]

@RGomez915 Welcome to the forum! I would first look at the edge of the coin. For a typical Copper-Nickel clad coin it would have a copper colored middle similar to the first coin on the left in the attached pic. If the edge has no copper color like the other two then weigh the coin with a scale that has at least a 0.01g accuracy.

I did a quick search and there were a number with the Ike dollar die struck on cent planchet error coins for sale, like the attached examples which included a double struck one.

That is a really good idea, and I second that suggestion.

I have also heard rumors of other "errors" created in the middle of the night at the mint when some workers were bored. I would be curious to know if there were other error coins out in the wild involving an Ike die and cent planchet, which should exist if there was a mistake run with the wrong planchets. And they are certified by NGC, so there is that.

It does look like someone went at it with a grinder, particularly the reverse. But I'm also thinking maybe a parking lot coin, where the reverse took the brunt of scraping before someone picked it up. It would be a nice addition to the "Good, Bad, and Ugly" short set.

I would take the info there with a grain of salt, but there is often useful information and ballpark values that are helpful. About offset strikes, how about the attached which is a matching pair 40% off-center strike of an Ike dollar die on cent planchets, which has nice toning. I am curious to see how much it goes for, but it should be big money as a single 40% off-center strike Ike on the correct planchet went for $3k earlier last year at GC.

Funny stuff Kurt. But I am being very careful with older Spanish coins, and 8 Reales in particular, considering that I buy raw coins and there are so many well done counterfeits. Older Spanish coins are among the most counterfeited coins, and there aren't any good die marker references, unlike other coins I collect like Morgans or older half dollars. About the op's coin are you seeing doubling besides the mint mark?

I appreciate the offer, but I just participate on the board as a way of sharing and gaining knowledge about coins which I find particularly interesting.

If you are into error coins the attached book is a needed reference. The value of an error coin is a very important piece of information, and that number may be significantly less than expected or there may be no value found if it's not an error coin.

I am just starting to get my feet wet with Spanish coins, like those struck at the Mexico City mint, and I was thinking re-punched mint mark. I don't see doubling anywhere else, which you would get with DDD. Where are ppl seeing doubling besides the mint mark?

I think that's a keeper off-center strike cent, but as Sandon indicated not worth that much without the date and mark. Attached is an example 75% off-center strike 1971-D cent, which does still have a date and mark that is preferred by error collectors. Also, the following is a link to a site with some approximate values and a little more info for these errors ... https://coinquest.com/cgi-bin/cq/coins.pl?coin=925

Yea, that is quite a massive set! And I thought the complete circulation set of Morgans at 105 coins I am working on, which is taking quite a while to assemble, was large.

Just having a Red Book would have enabled you to identify them, as the specified weight for a 1943 Bronze cent is 3.11g (however astronomically unlikely it would be to find one in the wild).

Just being a good investor doesn't cut it. For the special investor classification (EB-5) they need to invest $990k and create 10 permanent jobs. If they had that kind of money they wouldn't be asking a friend to post questions about that on a coin collector's forum.

Wow, the first one has a really old holder! Have you been able to match it up with a particular generation holder, if that even is of interest to you.