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dleonard-3

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Posts posted by dleonard-3

  1. 2 minutes ago, Coinbuf said:

    Good morning, I would like to request that a set be added to the Lincoln cent category.   There needs to be a 1909 to date full date and mintmark set that does not require varieties.    Currently there are only two 1909 to date sets, one that includes varieties and one that is a date set only.    I know that there are several Lincoln cent sets already but not every collector wants to or collects varieties.   There needs to be a set for collectors that want a full date/mm set but without the varieties. 

    I agree.

  2. I just picked up this old crusty 1803 large cent.  I like the detail, but I'm concerned about the corrosion.  I would like to stabilize it, and possibly remove some of the crust without causing further damage.  I know that "cleaning" a coin is always a bad idea.  I've heard of soaking in Extra Virgin Olive Oil for long periods of time, but I've never actually had any success with this method.  I've also heard of a product that will dissolve corrosion crust without altering the toning (brown color) of old copper coins.  I can't remember the name of that product, and I don't know if they even still make it.  Any advise would be welcomed.  I would also love to hear your opinions on that big hooey on the obverse above Liberty's forehead.  Planchet void perhaps?

    1803 planchett void-Rev.jpg

    1803 planchett void-Obv.jpg

  3. I will jump in and tell you that you really don't have any monitary value in any of these coins.  Sorry, but they are extremely common, most are in circulated grades.  I don't know anything about error coins, but I do consider them "damaged" and prefer to collect closer to the "perfect" side of things.  I have read several of your posts about inheriting these coins, and I can relate to the experience you are getting while going through these.  I wouldn't even consider selling any of them because of sentimental value, but would continue with your search and education.  You probably won't find any that are valuable, but there's always a slim chance, and as long as you're having fun, that's what counts.  I am a penny collector since 1972 (I was 9), and I started out checking everyone's change for dates and mintmarks I didn't have in my folder yet.  Then I stepped up to checking bank rolls.  Once I had a pretty good handle on most of the holes in my folder, and since I had found a few "Wheatbacks", I decided to invest in another folder or two for those.  I continued filling holes from circulation, and trying to find nice shiny new looking examples as upgrades.  Then I realized that touching the shiny red ones would cause them to turn brown, so I talked my mom into getting me an album with plastic slides to protect them.  As I got older and had more spending cash, I bought more and more of these upgrades from dealers.  Over the many years, I have been able to completed a GEM uncirculated set of Lincolns from 1934 to date, with NGC slabbed high grade proofs (in my registry sets), and quite a few of the earlier Lincolns, Indians, Flying Eagles, and Large cents.  I once went to a coin show with my albums to see if I could find any more upgrades that were better than the ones I already had, but I couldn't seem to find any.  One dealer asked if he could see my collection, which I proudly allowed, and he was sincerely flabbergasted, and suggested that I needed to invest in getting them all slabbed.  I agreed, but I just can't talk myself into it.  You have a long journey ahead of you, if you choose to take it.  Good luck, and good hunting.

  4. It is almost guaranteed to be an SMS (Special Mint Set) quarter, that has seen some circulation and would be considered "impaired" because of the light wear.  Also, the heavy mark on the left obverse, and the one on the reverse eagle's breast would knock the numerical grade down substantially from 70. I like the "Cameo" look, and it's still a fun coin to find in change even if it doesn't have much numismatic value. 

  5. I have purchased quite a few PF70 coins for addition to my registry sets, and I can tell you this much:  If all of my "perfect" 70 coins were carefully cracked out (undamaged) and resubmitted, they would almost all come back as 69's (and maybe a few 68's).  I have not seen a perfect, flawless 70 coin yet.  So, if a few microscopic hidden flaws are o.k. on 70's, than grading really does become subjective and variable.  And a bulk submission of raw coins, with a "only grade the 70's" designation will yield a higher average number of 70's than a single coin submission.  It's basic economics, and the third party graders only make money on coins that are graded.  They want to make money too.

  6. The mint made a lot of dies, both obverse and reverse for 1988 cents, and pretty much every modern year.  So many, in fact, that it is nearly impossible to identify die marriages, and I don't know of any collector that is attempting to collect modern cents by die variety.  Early large Cents are pretty tough to collect this way, and they usually only had a few dies made each year.  I don't dis-agree that this may be a 1988 obverse muled with a 1989 reverse, but really, how much demand could there be for such an obscure coin.  Still an interesting discussion.  Thanks for posting.

  7. I've always heard that you should never "clean" a coin, or you will ruin it's collector value.  However, I have also heard of conserving or curating a coin, which isn't considered "cleaning", but simply maintaining and preserving the coin.  The technique is simply to gently remove any debris and gunk which would eventually cause oxidation and corrosion, and apply a very light coat of an inert preservative/protectant.  A clean soft bristle jewelers brush is used to apply the protectant.  I have tried this on several of my Large Cents, with excellent results.  But I would like to discuss proper procedures, as well as any negative effects this might have on the value of my coins.

    1856 slant 5 XF-OBV.jpg

    1856 slant 5 XF-REV.jpg