dollarfan

i am thinking of purchasing this coin but the dirty grimy look just doesnt work for me. is this the type of dirt and tarnish that can be removed through NGC conservation?

i am unfamiliar with this type of coin. If the two sets of images are of the same coin, with the lower being a confirmed genuine specimen then i would strongly be in the camp of perhaps not genuine. the creature (dragon/lion) looking animal on the back is not similar at all. from the leg spacing to the claws (hands?) to the positioning of the arm coming into the chest with just as many differences on the obverse. the legs are like four or five times the spacing between the two photos.

those are excellent points coinbuf. when you submit do you have a number of coins per submission or just dollar amount {not to exceed} of value. i couldnt imagine losing a package of key date coins regardless of how much insurance. The additional insurance is something i will definately do.

hello again, i believe i am finally getting close to being approved for non-dealer CAC submissions. I have a bunch of coins that i am wondering about submitting but am totally new to the process. could members please share their CAC experiences and give me advice on what i should be considering for morgans and peace dollars. none of my coins have toning and all are mostly "blast white" and PL and DMPL on the morgans. thanks in advance

on the reverse do you think the three oclock rim hit would make it a damaged coin? or too small it looks like an au58 or 55 at the lowest to me.

i guess i dont understand the whole concept/ if i was to buy this coin and i opened it up would my eyes see the brown indian cent or the purple one? to me the actual colors would be the ones your eyes see?

both sets of pictures are very nice. i still cant take a photo no matter how many OTT lights i bought this may be a dumb question but what set of pictures does the coin actually look like? the first set seems to be what the coin would look like. does the coin look like the 2nd set of pictures and not like the first??

here is another one, thanks to all for the fantastic information. this appears to be very common in CC morgans in MS grades I pass on all specimens with this unless it is a super deal and those are rare. great info!!

hello and thanks for the reply, i am very familiar with bag marks and sorry if the pics dont show better. I am asking about the group of straight lines going from 1 or 2 oclock down to 7 or 8 oclock, usually im seeing five or six parallel lines same lower cheek area over many different coins. from my experiences bag marks are very random and all over. these mark groupings seem very consistent and not random.

here is another coin, different year, both CC mints pictured

hello again, i have passed up on purchasing several morgans that were very nice except for they all have these lower cheek scratch variations. does anyone know more about these? they are almost exactly the same on same coins of different years. thanks

can you post a clear closeup of the liberty on the obverse

RWB this is my 65+ peace i was telling you about last week. i had to go digging. it looks like a beat down dog compared to yours. the strike is clearly much weaker, this one does have luster and silver "sparkles" on all the high points so is it correct that would make it later in the die process? i have a 64 that when i saw it i bought it because of the amazing detail, im gonna dig for that one. i think it has a much better strike.

the nicest 1921 i have is a 65+ and it is a beauty (will need to dig it out now to compare) but from what i remember versus yours, i would say yours is 68??ish is there even any 68 1921 peace? 67 absolutely but i think higher. RWB im tearing up over here.....is it a raw specimen?? please tell me

well i finally figured out what im going to do for long term storage, i got the intercept shield double boxes, that individually hold the slab (X10 slabs) then go into another intercept shield box, i kept them in the guardhouse shield protector bags so it seems they should be pretty much "SHIELDED" my only other question was is the loose space that is left in the box meant to keep the little moisture evaporator that comes in the original packing inside the box with the coins? i would hate to add contaminants after going thru the trouble of trying to protect the coins. please advise. Alex, was this what you were talking about?? thanks.

wow, this coin is amazing. RWB is this your coin and what grade is it?

if you could take a couple pics of the liberty half dollar, franklin half and lincoln cent first page of the albums im sure some of the more seasoned members will be able to provide sound information.

hello again, i was wondering how NGC and PCGS determine whether a coin s PL, DPL or DMPL Also, were the standards the same for OGH (old green holder or other old school holders) as they are now. I have been working on a CC morgan subset of common date (78,80,81,82,83,84,85,90 and 91) my goal is every date listed in the conditions of 62, 62+, 63, 63+, 64, 64+) and further a PL and either DPL or DMPL of the year for each and every grade. It has been a blast so far putting it together. But also very challenging as i am only interested in blast white, cac worthy type specimens. there are 162 different grade/designations for these dates. so far i have 51 and many of them are OGH's. some of the PL ones look much more DPL as compared to certified DPLs. some of the prices rise rapidly around 64 grades for DPL versus PL and some dates even at MS63 grade. SO, has anyone ever resubmitted and gotten a PL upgraded to DPL from an older slab? any info on how they decide would be much appreciated thanks!

can you post pics of your proof peace

wow, i agree with JKK that is very odd. please post a closeup of the mintmark and also the obverse as we would like a closer look. thanks

yes i agree on all points, i have been tracking the garbage this seller (you all have heard of him before.....urban legend) continues to get away with selling and have reported him to ebay to no avail on items of "suspect" authenticity.. they just let it go and all the items sell. he tones his coins exactly the same everytime and nobody who is buying the items catches on. very sad

yes i agree very nice pics