Sandon

This would be something for the ultimate "lowball" set, except that you're supposed to be able to determine the date.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. See the following topic on the Registry forum for NGC's explanation: NGC Registry- Where do I add my Ancient coins? - NGC Registry Help and Instructions - NGC Coin Collectors Chat Boards There are thousands of different types of ancient coins, some of which are difficult to authenticate or attribute, and there do not appear to be any generally accepted grading standards for them. It would be very difficult to define or score an appropriate number of slots for any competitive set that would be all-inclusive or be satisfactory to all collectors who wanted to participate. Custom sets, though not scored, afford collectors of ancient coins that have been encapsulated by NGC Ancients an opportunity to display and describe their coins in accordance with their own preferences, and NGC does give annual awards to Custom sets, including for the "Best Ancient Custom Set". See The NGC Registry Awards | NGC (ngccoin.com).

I agree that your 1942-S Lincoln cent appears to have been partly coated with glue or some other foreign substance after the coin had entered circulation. Contrary to what you may have read or seen on some websites, it is extremely unusual to find any significant mint error or other rare or valuable coin in circulation or in coins that were accumulated from circulation. In nearly 53 years of collecting and studying U.S. coins and checking change, I have never found any coin worth more than a few dollars in circulation. I know only one collector who ever has received a significant mint error in change. The vast majority of pieces that people post here believing that they are mint errors or die varieties are coins that were damaged or altered after leaving the mint. Nearly all of the others exhibit minor anomalies or "quality control issues" that have little or no market value and wouldn't be attributed as mint errors by third-party grading services. It's fine to keep on looking through change, but please understand that you are highly unlikely to find anything of real interest or value. If you check the inventory of a dealer who deals primarily in mint errors such as Sullivan Numismatics, you will find that the vast majority of the more expensive items offered are in uncirculated grades. I understand that most major mint errors are discovered in newly issued coins at counting houses or by bank personnel who sell them to coin dealers. Some have even been smuggled out of the mint by mint personnel. In 2002 the U.S. Mint initiated procedures that have made it very difficult for any major error that results in a coin being misshapen from leaving the mint, and very few such pieces have been found dated later than 2002. I assume that you have a current or recent "Red Book", a grading guide, and access to current price guides from which you can obtain basic information on U.S. coins and collecting them. If you don't, please let us know so we may assist you in obtaining them. For generally correct information about mint errors at an introductory level, see the following: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) For a comprehensive treatment of mint errors, see the site error-ref.com.

The Liberty Head half eagle was coined at seven different U.S. Mint facilities--Philadelphia, Charlotte, Dahlonega, New Orleans, San Francisco, Carson City, and Denver. I can't think of any type of U.S. coin produced at eight. Some European countries such as France and Germany may have had eight or more mints operating at the same time.

1871-S Liberty Seated half dime, PCGS graded XF 45, from the "Benson Collection" sold by Goldberg auctioneers in 2002:

Here is a cropped version of the reverse photo of this purported "Special Strike" coin: There's a "D' mintmark, alright! The small, thin "D" mintmark was standard for this era. Here are the NGC Coin Explorer Photos of an uncirculated 1927-D nickel, showing what the mintmark would have looked like before the coin became so worn.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please post photos of both sides of a coin about which you have questions. The "cut" you describe is exactly that--a cut or scratch--possibly made by a roll wrapping machine, after the coin left the mint. Such post-mint damage is by definition not a mint error and adds no value. Assuming that the coin has a filled mintmark, whether "as made" or from subsequent wear or damage, this would also add no value. A circulated 1972-D quarter (over 311 million issued) presently has no collector value and is worth its face value of 25 cents.

See that little "D" beneath "FIVE CENTS" on the last photo posted, which I assume is of the reverse of the coin purported to be a "Special Strike"? It is the mintmark of the Denver mint. The coin is a 1927-D, not a 1927, in Very Good condition, with a retail value of $6 per Coin World and $10 per the NGC Price Guide. The pieces authenticated as "Special" or "Experimental" strikes were coined at the Philadelphia mint and had no mint mark. If the OP has read any numismatic literature to the contrary, he should please cite it. I can't believe that the OP is serious. I don't know why he is wasting his own as well as our time.

I agree that based on the photos the doubling on this coin is flat, shelf-like strike doubling. Wexler and Variety Vista both list several minor DDOs for proof 1963 quarters, but none is a match for this one. See https://www.doubleddie.com/1370540.html, http://www.varietyvista.com/09b WQ Vol 2/DDOs 1963.htm.

1887 proof Indian cent, ANACS graded Proof Details, Recolored (net Proof 60) in old small holder. The color is a bit "off", especially on the reverse, but the coin is still sharp and attractive:

The "Red Book" would tell you that this is a 1943 zinc coated steel cent, struck that year to free up copper for the war effort, and that 684,628,670 of these were reportedly struck at the Philadelphia mint. Studying a grading guide should lead you to the conclusion that this coin is in About Uncirculated condition, and reference to a current price guide would provide retail (dealer sell) values of 50 to 75 cents. (In my opinion, the reverse spot is too small to be considered an impairment.) Only in better mint state grades does a 1943 steel cent have any real collector value. As noted by @Just Bob, many have been "replated" to look uncirculated but have an unnatural shine. On original coins, the edge, which wasn't zinc coated, is dull but is shiny on the replated ones.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. The clear photos are appreciated. @Coinbuf is correct that a topic like this one is best posted in the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" or "U.S., World and Ancient Coins" forums. Although I am fond of all early U.S. coins, your 1810 over 09 large cent isn't one that I would submit to a third-party grading service. The coin was clearly polished or "cleaned" long ago and has retoned, leaving it with an unnatural appearance and shine. "Rainbow toning" isn't normal on a well-worn copper coin. I predict that the coin will receive a grade of "About Good (or at best Good) Details, Cleaned". Its market value wouldn't be much greater than what it will cost you in grading ($23 at the "Economy" tier) and processing fees and shipping costs. It's a fine coin for an album, not for a grading service holder. Before you even think about submitting coins to grading services, it is absolutely essential that you have the knowledge and experience necessary to at least approximately grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself. You should be reasonably confident that each coin you submit will be awarded a grade at which it would have a market value of at least several hundred dollars. Otherwise, you are likely to waste a great deal of money that could have been better used to purchase some decent coins.

The coin has no mintmark because it was struck at the Philadelphia mint. As the Philadelphia mint was the original, or "main" U.S. mint, rather than a "branch" mint, it was thought unnecessary for coins of that mint to be identified by a mint mark. (The Philadelphia mint was the only U.S. mint from 1792-1837, and the first mintmarks on U.S. coins appear on coins struck at the branch mints that opened in 1838.) A "P" mintmark was first used on the wartime alloy five cent coins of 1942-45 to identify them as having been struck in a special alloy. The "P" mintmark was next used on 1979-P Susan B. Anthony dollars and was added to all other denominations of circulating coins except for the cent in 1980. The "P" mintmark was used on cents minted in Philadelphia only in 2017 to commemorate the 225th anniversary of the establishment of that mint. If you want to understand the coins that you collect, it is absolutely essential that you obtain basic resources, at a bare minimum a current or recent edition of A Guide Book of United States Coins (commonly known as the "Red Book" or the "Redbook", 2025 edition to be published within the next month), a grading guide, and a current price guide. Please see the following forum topics to identify and obtain these and other vital print and online resources: We have an old expression: "Buy the book before the coin!" It is still valid today, especially if "book" is interpreted as including legitimate websites.

Third-party grading services evaluate thousands of coins each day, so it wouldn't be feasible for them to provide a detailed, written analysis of each coin that they certify. You only get what they put on that little paper tag. This doesn't prevent you from performing your own research and doing your own analysis.

Your coin is a 1982-D large date, which is common in both brass (95% copper, 5% zinc alloy, official weight of 3.11 grams) (a.k.a. "copper") and the then new copper-plated zinc (official weight of 2.5 grams) composition. (Cents had ceased to be made in bronze alloy back in 1962, when tin was completely eliminated, although sometimes even grading services incorrectly refer to these as "bronze".) The 3.10 grams weight indicates that your coin is brass, as is most of the large date mintage. Both mints made 1982 cents in both compositions, and both mints also began striking cents from new, "small date" dies later in the year. The mint reported that it did not coin any 1982-D small date cents in the old, brass composition, but one was discovered in November 2016 and certified by NGC. See NGC Certifies Unique Cent | NGC (ngccoin.com). I understand that only one additional1982-D small date brass cent has been authenticated since, although a surprising number of people wrongly claim to have found one. The other seven combinations of the compositions with either large or small dates are common and have no collector value other than in better uncirculated grades. This "infographic", courtesy of @EagleRJO, shows and explains the differences between "large" and "small" date cents of 1982:

The coin was almost certainly plated or coated with nickel or some other magnetic metal, as I understand was frequently done in high school science labs decades ago. You can see the underlying bronze where the plating or coating has come off, and the plating or coating has an unnatural shine. Unless you can find evidence that the Philadelphia mint was making coins for some foreign country in or around 1953 that were exactly the size of a U.S. cent and had magnetic properties, it would be a waste of money and time to "send it in". Even then, the chances that it would be determined to be a "wrong planchet" error would be "slim and nil."

1811 Large 8 Capped Bust half dollar, PCGS graded VF 30:

As you know that this variety is listed in the Cherrypickers' Guide as FS-901 and can easily show others (such as through the VarietyPlus listing or the Cherrypickers' Guide) itself that the "Speared Eagle" is also listed as FS-901, why do you have to pay NGC or anyone else to print this on their little paper tag? Why can't you just make you own note of this attached to or accompanying the holder and use the money saved toward buying other coins? Sometimes in numismatics, as in most other endeavors, one just has to make use of a pen and paper.

Based on the photos, this is a normal, lightly circulated 1974-D cent that was struck from a slightly misaligned obverse die. There is nothing unusual about coins exhibiting die polish marks. There is no evidence presented that it is of a "mixed alloy" and contains chemical element "Al" (aluminum) or any other element other than the normal copper (95%) and zinc (5%).

When the registry has placed a coin in the wrong slot, open the page for the individual coin, click the link in blue that says, "Wrong Coin/Grade?", and follow the steps until you have indicated the correct slot for the coin. This should enable the NGC staff to correct the problem.

If you were seeking advice on this issue from the NGC staff, it would have best been posted on the "Ask NGC/NCS" forum. There is a line between parts 11 and 12 of the Submission Form for "Customer Notes" that might be used to inform NGC that you believe that a submitted coin exhibits a new variety that you want attributed notwithstanding that it is not currently listed on VarietyPlus. Be advised, however, that if NGC does not agree that it is a variety and is of sufficient significance to attribute, the coin will not be attributed notwithstanding your payment of the "VarietyPlus" fee. You should consider posting appropriate photos of the coins at issue in the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum for the opinions of forum members as to whether the coins exhibit actual die tripling or doubling and, if so, whether it is sufficiently significant to make submission likely worthwhile.

The photos we would need to provide any opinion about the coin's likely grade range would look something like this: NGC graded this 1938-D Buffalo nickel MS 66.

I assume that, just as you won't show us a photo of the reverse of the coin, you won't identify any of the dealers whom you claim agreed that the coin was a "Special Strike" or state the basis of their opinions. Correct? As for submitting the coin to a grading service, that's up to you. I would expect that one or more of the dealers who thought it was a "Special Strike" would have been eager to assist you with your submission.

Look at this page for upcoming events that NGC is planning to attend. Events | NGC (ngccoin.com). You can also find this page under the "Submit" tab on the NGC home page.

Here is a properly cropped version of the OP's image of the well-worn (Very Good to Fine or so, based on the obverse) 1927 Buffalo nickel claimed by the OP to have originated as a "Special Strike". (We've never been shown a photo of the reverse and can't even determine that it was minted in Philadelphia, where such pieces were made). This coin does not have a "squared off" edge as contended by the OP. The top of the edge appears mostly angled or beveled where it meets the rim, although it is not possible to say for sure what it looked like when the coin was struck due to edge nicks and wear from circulation. The following photos are edge views of two early Jefferson nickels (from the same era as later Buffalo nickels) in fairly recent PCGS holders that allow a view of portions of their edges, (1) a proof of 1938 graded PR 64 and (2) a circulation strike of 1939 graded MS 63: On the proof, the edge is only slightly slanted where it meets the rim, as is typical for a proof, which is what is referred to as a "squared off" edge. On the circulation strike, the edge has a slightly wider slanted or beveled area between the edge and the rim, as is typical for a circulation strike and more closely resembles the OP's 1927. These differences are subtle and may vary from issue to issue and coin to coin, which is why the presence or absence of a "squared off" edge is not determinative of a coin's status as a proof or a circulation strike in the first place. It appears to me, however, that the OP has put forward no evidence whatsoever that his worn 1927 nickel originated as a "Special Strike".