Sandon

Your coins are all large dates. Here is a small date. Note the shorter upper portion of the "6" whose upper right doesn't reach the right side of the "6" and the smaller space inside the "0".

This 1943-D cent is circulated (Extremely Fine or so) and appears to have been "cleaned". Even if not "cleaned", its retail (dealer sell) list value would only be 55 cents. See Lincoln Cents, Wheat Reverse (1909-1958) | Price Guide & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). Please see my replies to your other topics. If you think that this coin was struck from a doubled die, please submit close-ups of the areas you believe show die doubling. I can see none in the current photos.

Yes, the coins have been encapsulated. Your friend should have expected the amount of the invoice, unless NGC determined that the coins had been submitted in too low a tier, about which he may have received prior notice.

Please review my reply to your topic about the 1982-D small date zinc cent. No, this 1983 cent would not be worth any amount remotely approaching what it would cost to submit it to NGC. Submitting coins to grading services is the last thing a new collector should be thinking about. First, you must acquire substantial knowledge of how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself. Please refer to the following forum topics for trustworthy print and online resources from which you may acquire such knowledge: Your education will also require attendance at such venues as coin shows and shops and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers.

This is the final stage before the coin is shipped back to the owner, at which time the awarded grades will be revealed. If the quality control inspection reveals some issue with the holder, description, or grade, it could revert to an earlier status to correct the issue, but most likely the next status will be "Shipped".

Your 1943 steel cent exhibits no mint error and has been plated outside the mint to make it look like an uncirculated coin whose zinc coating hasn't darkened. Countless thousands of such pieces were sold cheaply as "reprocessed" decades ago. The original surface would be frosty, not shiny like this coin. (The edge of a coin that hasn't been plated should be dull, not shiny, as the edges weren't zinc coated, and if the edge of yours is as shiny as the rest of it, that would be another indication that it has been plated.) If you submit this coin to NGC, it will be returned in a flip with a tag stating "NOT ENCAPSULATED--ALTERED SURFACE and no grade, but NGC will keep your money. Here are photos of a 1943 steel cent that PCGS graded MS 65. Its surfaces are bright and frosty, but not shiny:

Based on your photos, I see no evidence that this coin has a doubled die obverse or reverse. NGC VarietyPlus lists no doubled die variety for the 1982-D small date zinc cent and generally will not attribute varieties not included in VarietyPlus. See Lincoln Cents, Memorial Reverse (1959-2008) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com) and Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com). Your coin has a number of nicks and scratches, as well as many plating blisters, that would preclude it receiving a high mint state grade. (The photos also show it as having a peculiar pinkish color, suggesting that it has been "cleaned".) Based on the NGC Price Guide, even a 1982-D small date zinc cent graded MS 67 RD, a solid gem, would only have a retail value of $40, still probably less than the total cost (grading, processing, and shipping, not including the $18 additional variety attribution fee) of submitting it to NGC. See Lincoln Cents, Memorial Reverse (1959-2008) | Price Guide & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). Such coins can often be purchased for well under list values. I purchased this 1984-D that NGC graded MS 67 RD, which is clearly better than your coin, for all of $7, well under the $25 NGC Price Guide Value, from a dealer's "cheap slab box" at a coin show: The reason that you see incredibly high prices for coins like this in extremely high grades (MS 68 and 69 RD) is that hardly any coins issued for circulation receive such grades from grading services, and you must be highly experienced as a grader yourself before you would be able to make an informed judgment as to whether your coin would have a realistic chance of receiving such a grade. Based on what I can see from your photos and my over 50 years of experience, your coin doesn't come anywhere near such a grade. If you insist on learning this the hard (and expensive) way, you are welcome to submit it.

Uncertified 1827 Square Base 2 Capped Bust half dollar, my grade Ch. VF details, "cleaned" and scratched. I bought this coin, now a duplicate, at a coin show circa 1978. I wasn't very particular in those days.

Contrary to what you may have read on some websites or seen in internet videos, it is in fact extremely unusual to find any significant mint error, die variety, or other coin with substantial collector value in circulation. I have now been collecting and studying U.S. coins and checking my and others' change for nearly 53 years and have never found any coin, error or otherwise, worth more than a few dollars. I know only one person who ever has. Since 2002 the U.S. Mint has had procedures that I understand make it nearly impossible for a major error of the sort that results in a misshapen coin from leaving the mint. I am told that, even before that, most such pieces were usually intercepted at banks and counting houses and sold directly to coin dealers. Most errors offered for sale, such as by Sullivan Numismatics, are in uncirculated condition. I'm not suggesting that you and your son stop looking, but you shouldn't expect much. It would be best for your son to learn the basics of collecting U.S. coins, such as the history of U.S. coins, types, which dates, mints and major varieties are valuable and grading before getting into more advanced topics such as mint errors. (Do you have a recent edition of the "Redbook", a grading guide, and a subscription to a current price guide?) See the following forum topics for suggestions of basic print and online resources: If you want an overview of what constitutes a mint error, see the following articles on the NGC website: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) For a comprehensive treatment of mint errors, see the site error-ref.com.

I have read of these dates being particularly subject to die buckling giving the appearance of Liberty having "mumps". David Lawrence wrote that the 1907-O was "p]robably the worst struck coin in the Barber half series, but does come with nice luster. 'Mumps' specimens are fairly common and most exaggerated in this date." D. Lawrence, The Complete Guide to Barber Halves (1991) at p.77. Lawrence also commented regarding the 1908-O that "'[m]umps specimens are not unusual." Id. at p. 81. I hope that this helps.

This topic would also have been better placed in the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum. The Administrator will likely move it there next week. "CAC" stands for Certified Acceptance Corporation, which was founded in 2007 by John Albanese, a dealer who was involved in the founding of both PCGS and NGC in the 1980s and who is highly respected as a grader who applies strict standards. NGC and PCGS graded coins are awarded green CAC stickers if they are found by Albanese and those trained by him to be solid for the assigned grade and gold stickers if they are found to be undergraded. Originally, CAC would offer to buy CAC-stickered coins sight-unseen and acted as a "market maker" for these coins. Last year, however, CAC also became a grading service (CAC Grading or "CACG") that grades and encapsulates coins. CAC still stickers coins in NGC and PCGS holders but, I understand, no longer buys or sells coins. A new stickering service, CMQ, began last year in affiliation with Stacks Bowers Galleries, a major numismatic auction house. I understand that CMQ stickered certified coins have been approved by David Hall (a founder of PCGS) and Greg Roberts, who are also respected as graders. Most of the other stickers don't, to my knowledge, have widespread market acceptance. An exception would be "Eagle Eye" stickers on Flying Eagle and Indian cents, indicating the approval of their grading by dealer Rick Snow, who is respected in that specialty. In my opinion, the problem with these stickering services--and grading services themselves--is that they encourage collectors to accept the judgment of others about coins and not develop their own knowledge of grading, judgment, and personal taste. Ultimately, the decision as to whether to buy a particular coin should be based upon an informed purchaser's own evaluation of the coin, not what a grading or stickering service thinks of it. You might want to review the following topic about CAC and CACG:

This topic was originally posted in the NGC Registry forum, where I had the following observations: Many of the heavily toned Franklin half dollars (and other silver coins dated from 1947 to 1958) originated in the U.S. Mint uncirculated coin ("mint") sets of that era, whose packaging consisted of cardboard holders and paper envelopes that reacted with the coin metal. Believe it or not, some collectors regard this heavy and often dark or spotted toning as enhancing and indicative of the coins' originality and are willing to pay a premium for them. The grading services tend to award high grades to these coins with "mint set toning". Like you, I regard this toning, formerly known as tarnish, as ugly and undesirable. I prefer the brilliant and frosty or lightly toned coins that originated in bags or original rolls instead of these unattractive pieces. Regarding the brilliant pieces, try to avoid those that are brilliant because they have been "dipped". Such coins will usually have a somewhat "washed out" appearance or white residue spots from insufficient rinsing. Grading services will numerically grade pieces that have been dipped if not excessively so but will usually not award them grades higher than MS 64.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. As your question doesn't directly relate to the Registry, it might receive better attention if posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum or the "U.S. World, and Ancient Coins" forum. Many of the heavily toned Franklin half dollars (and other silver coins dated from 1947 to 1958) originated in the U.S. Mint uncirculated coin ("mint") sets of that era, whose packaging consisted of cardboard holders and paper envelopes that reacted with the coin metal. Believe it or not, some collectors regard this heavy and often dark or spotted toning as enhancing and indicative of the coins' originality and are willing to pay a premium for them. The grading services tend to award high grades to these coins with "mint set toning". Like you, I regard this toning, formerly known as tarnish, as ugly and undesirable. I prefer the brilliant and frosty or lightly toned coins that originated in bags or original rolls instead of these unattractive pieces. Regarding the brilliant pieces, try to avoid those that are brilliant because they have been "dipped". Such coins will usually have a somewhat "washed out" appearance or white residue spots from insufficient rinsing. Grading services will numerically grade pieces that have been dipped if not excessively so but will usually not award them grades higher than MS 64.

1819, Large 9 over 8 Capped Bust half dollar, O-106, PCGS graded XF Details, "cleaned". Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

The inner hair cord is just barely complete, so it might just meet the ANA Grading Guide requirements for Fine, but it could also be called a VG-F or VG 10 in terms of details, but it has enough rim damage and evidence of "cleaning" that it would likely receive a "details" grade. This 1834 large cent is of the Large 8, Small Stars, Medium Letters "Redbook" variety, which comprises two Newcomb die varieties, N3 and N4. This coin appears to be an N4, said to be the scarcer of the two die varieties, but still relatively common.

I don't know where you're getting your information. Although the 1934-S is more easily obtainable and cheaper than the 1928 in circulated (especially well-worn) grades, it's much scarcer and more expensive as an uncirculated coin. Fewer 1934-Ss were preserved that hadn't been in circulation than 1928s. In the MS 65 grade, the 1928 lists $3,750 in MS 65 in the NGC Price Guide, while the 1934-S lists $11,500. See Peace Dollars (1921-1935) | Price Guide & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). The 1934-S has a higher list price than the 1928 in every grade AU 50 and higher. The NGC Census shows a total of 9,802 certification events for 1928 Peace dollars and only 5,245 for the 1934-S. See Peace Dollars (1921-1935) | Coin Census Population Report | NGC (ngccoin.com). More significantly, the 1928 has 6,189 certification events in Mint State grades (60 or higher), while the 1934-S has only 1,406. You will notice similar price and certified population differences in the PCGS Price Guide and Population Report at pcgs.com. How can you hope to become successful as either a collector or an investor (or, like many of us, as both), when you lack even basic knowledge and experience? Just as in stock or real estate investing, if you don't thoroughly understand what you're buying and the market for it or at least consult with someone who does, you're not likely to succeed. I recommend that you learn and make smaller purchases for at least the next few years. Otherwise, you will likely learn the lesson the hard way.

That isn't always true, especially for Morgan and Peace silver dollars. Large portions of some issues were stored in Treasury and bank vaults for decades before being released in uncirculated condition at face value as late as 1964 or sold by the government between 1972 and 1980. Others, including higher mintage issues, were subjected to meltings that destroyed much of the original mintage. Although the 1928 Peace dollar is the lowest mintage issue of that series, the 1934-S and certain other dates are much rarer in most uncirculated grades. As I previously stated, if you insist on buying coins this expensive without much knowledge or experience, it would be best to buy them certified by NGC, PCGS, or other reputable services. However, your time and money might be better spent learning and developing informed judgment. (I had been collecting for over 40 years before I spent this much money on a single coin.) The coin in the PCGS holder with serial #84288352, which doesn't appear to be the same one you showed earlier, appears to be fairly priced for the assigned grade, but one can't really assess a coin without in-person examination, and from the obverse photo it appears too dull and streaky to be considered a nice coin for that grade in my opinion. (You can also access photos from a Heritage auction at which this coin was sold in 2017 through PCGS Certificate Verification, which also show it to be dull and streaky. See https://www.pcgs.com/cert/84288352.) I recommend that you follow the old saying of "buy the book before the coin" and attend such venues as coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers. I referred you to forum topics identifying reliable print and online resources in one of your previous topics.

In other words, the number of "impressions" means the number of pieces made in the indicated metal. If they were coins instead of medals, we would refer to the number of pieces "struck", rather than "impressed", by the dies.

Every coin must be graded to determine its market value, whether the grading is done by the collector who is considering purchasing the coin, the person who currently owns it, or a third-party grading service. Opinions as to a coin's grade may vary, even among those with knowledge and experience. This is especially true for uncirculated (mint state) and proof coins, where a single point in grade may mean a substantial difference in list values. I'll take your question to mean, "As a new collector with little knowledge of or experience in grading coins who is considering buying an 1868 copper nickel three cent piece offered as MS 66 (a Gem Uncirculated grade with a high list price), should I buy such a coin so graded by a reputable third-party grading service or by the seller?" My answer to this question is that you are definitely better off buying such a coin graded by a reputable third-party grading service (NGC, PCGS, CAC Grading, or perhaps ANACS), whose opinions will generally be given weight should you decide to sell the coin. An 1868 copper nickel three cent piece is a relatively common date in that series even through lower to mid-uncirculated grades. A well-worn piece grading "Good" lists $20 in the NGC Price Guide and could likely be purchased uncertified for less. A nice Extremely Fine lists $55. A Choice Uncirculated MS 63 lists $200, a Very Choice MS 64 $325, a nominal Gem MS 65 $600 and a MS 66 $1,300. Although I'm personally fond of this series, it isn't one of the more popular types of U.S. coins and am not sure why a new collector would want to purchase a likely high-priced example of one of its more common dates, assuming that you are actually considering buying it. Notwithstanding the third-party grading of the coin, it is still important that you develop the judgment to determine that the coin is "nice for the grade" and worth the price being asked. Many "three cent nickels" were struck weakly and/or from heavily clashed dies and may be unattractive even if awarded higher grades based on surface preservation and luster. I happen to own an 1868 graded MS 63 by PCGS, likely due to somewhat subdued luster, but I value it for its strong strike with full lines in the "III" and relatively unblemished surfaces. Can you tell much real difference between this MS 63 and the coin graded MS 66 that would warrant spending an additional $1,000 for it? If you would like to learn more about copper nickel three cent pieces, see my topic about them:

1818 Capped Bust quarter, PCGS graded XF 40:

1831 Capped Bust quarter, small letters variety, NGC graded XF 45, though lightly "cleaned" in my opinion: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

Back when I attended college in Washington, D.C. in the late 1970s and early 1980s, I would go to the gift shop that the U.S. Mint (then the Bureau of the Mint) operated in the Treasury Building. The items offered for sale included these presumably leftover souvenir sets that had been assembled for the 1978 and 1979 ANA conventions. (As I recall, there was only a summer convention in those days.) Although the items included in these sets are of no great value, the sets themselves are interesting mementos. I don't know how many were assembled and, while they might be found in dealers' "junk boxes", I don't remember seeing them in recent years. The 1978 set, created for the 1978 convention in Houston, Texas, included a then new 1978-D Eisenhower dollar and a small bronze Lyndon B. Johnson medal, along with a card explaining that Eisenhower and Johnson were "Our Two Texas-Born Presidents". The 1979 set, commemorating the 1979 convention held in St. Louis, Missouri, included a 1978 Eisenhower dollar and a 1979-P Susan B. Anthony dollar (common narrow rim variety), plus a card entitled "The Old Gives Way to the New" with biographical information about Eisenhower and Anthony and information about the coins. I don't know whether the Mint created souvenir sets like these for other ANA conventions, but it is likely that such sets exist. If you have any, please feel free to post them here.

I happen to have this one that I bought at the U.S. Mint's gift shop in the Treasury Building in Washington, D.C. in 1978 or 1979 for the original issue price of $9. The contents are identical to those in the sets in the usual red envelope.

"Subsidence" and "subsistence" are different words with quite different meanings. The posted coin may exhibit reverse die subsidence (not "subsistence"), or a portion of its reverse may have been struck through some soft or thin material that caused the depression but allowed the design to still show through it weakly.

The Mint produced no quarters, half dollars, or dollars dated 1975. Any piece so dated is a fake. Pieces of these denominations dated 1974 were produced until about mid-1975, and Bicentennial dual dated pieces were produced thereafter.