Sandon

Where shall I begin? 1. When you post photos of coins on this forum, please post photos that have been cropped so as to eliminate the surface that surrounds the coin as much as possible. If you claim that a coin exhibits a doubled die, include closeups of the areas that you think show die doubling, or at least describe the areas where you see doubling. Based on the photos that you have submitted, your circulated (brown AU) 1988-D cent does not exhibit any form of doubling, die or otherwise. It does show a number of plating blisters, which are all too common on earlier zinc coated steel cents and of no collector value. The coin appears to be worth only its face value of one cent. If you want reconsideration, please post better photos. 2. You cIaim that the coin exhibits die doubling on both sides, which is extremely unlikely. I can't recall a variety that was an obverse and reverse doubled die, and I've been collecting and studying U.S. coins for nearly 53 years. In fact, contrary to what you may have read elsewhere on the Internet, it is extremely unusual to find any significant die variety (such as a major doubled die) or mint error in circulation. 3. A coin struck from a doubled die exhibits crisp, clear doubling on the affected side, with both images at about the same level and "notches" between the images. Here are images of an example of the "Redbook" variety 1972 doubled die obverse cent. Note these characteristics on the obverse letters and numbers and the normal reverse: 4. If you are a new collector, the last thing that you should be doing is submitting coins to third-party grading services, especially coins that you think are die varieties or mint errors, which are advanced subjects in numismatics. To be successful in this endeavor, you need substantial knowledge and experience in grading and otherwise evaluating coins. If you don't believe me, please review this topic by someone who learned this the hard way, including my and other members' replies: 5. If you're still determined to submit this coin to NGC, please carefully review all of the topics under the "Submit" tab on the NGC home page. Assuming that you already have a paid NGC membership (at least $95 per year), you will need to pay a $19 ("Modern" tier) grading fee, a $18 VarietyPlus fee, a $10 per order processing fee, and a minimum $28 per order return shipping fee, totaling $75, not including your cost of shipping the coin to NGC. That's a lot of money to spend to find out that your coin has no collector value, as will almost certainly be the case. Why not spend this money on a current "Redbook", a grading guide, and a subscription to a current pricing periodical instead? See the following topics to find these and other resources, including free ones:

There are no Morgan dollars that could legitimately be called "rare" by date and mint. For the 1893-S, the NGC census shows a total of 8,056 grading events, 3,796 of which are coins with numerical grades and the remaining 4,260 of which are "details" graded due to impairments, such as the polished, VG Details coin you posted. The PCGS Population Report has 7,563 grading events for numerically graded 1893-S dollars and does not report coins that PCGS has "details" graded, of which there are no doubt several thousand additional grading events. Many other 1893-S Morgan dollars have been submitted to ANACS and other lower tier grading services, and genuine uncertified pieces still turn up. Although some of the same coins have been submitted more than once, it is likely that well over 10,000 1893-S Morgan dollars exist in all grades. They are only rare in uncirculated grades. They and other "key date" Morgan dollars are expensive only because of heavy demand by date and mint collectors and the widespread, false belief that they are "rare" in an objective sense. Mintage figures are mostly irrelevant for coins like Morgan dollars, of which large numbers of coins were melted without regard to date and mint. Under the Pittman Act of 1918 alone, over 270 million silver dollars were removed from the Treasury vaults and melted. As a result, some low mintage dates such as the 1899 (330,000) are common through mid-uncirculated grades, while the 1901 (6,962,000) is a scarcer issue in circulated grades and hard to find and very expensive in any uncirculated grade. Due to the heavy demand and high prices for "key date" Morgan dollars, they are frequently faked by altering dates or mintmarks or making counterfeits. The 1895-S in the album is clearly a fake and so identified instantly by the date elements, especially the "9", that do not match those of genuine coins. I cannot assess the authenticity of the 1895-O from the photos, but it has obviously been "cleaned" based on its unnatural color. The 1893-S has been authenticated by NGC, but as an impaired coin would be discounted from list values and could be a hard coin to sell or get your money back. Based on its NGC photos, it has been heavily polished and is undesirable. See Verify NGC Certification | NGC (ngccoin.com). If you "must" have one, you might wait for a better one. I wouldn't want to offer anything near "Good" money for this one, $3,000 in Coin World and $4,000 in the NGC Price Guide. It might be reasonable at $1,500. The 1895-O if genuine has VF details but would also have to be discounted due being "cleaned". I wouldn't make an offer due to its questionable authenticity.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Whether or not it is genuine, your coin is very likely a piece that was removed from jewelry, with severe damage from having been mounted that removed most of the letters and numbers from the upper reverse and evidence of having been polished to an unnatural brightness, with resulting hairline scratches. It would have to be a very rare coin to be worth submitting for third-party grading with these serious impairments.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Neither of your Morgan dollars exhibits a mint error. Based on the photos, the coins have been exposed to or have remaining residue from some foreign substance, possibly adhesive tape as suggested by @J P M. The green spots on the 1921 Morgan dollar are also indicative of surface contamination, possibly from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) as a result of long storage in a soft plastic flip. Acetone may remove both of these residues, but see other forum topics regarding the safe use of this flammable substance. I recommend that you then obtain proper holders, such as hard plastic capsules or "snap-tites" or mylar flips for these coins.

In addition to boxes of low-priced world coins, coin dealers often have at their shops and at coin shows boxes of low-priced and sometimes discounted U.S. coins. These may include some of the minor errors and varieties for which new collectors may be spending countless hours fruitlessly checking their change and bank rolls, sometimes attributed and sometimes not. The dealer may also have missed some better varieties. Less than ten years ago, I found a strong Good 1894 Indian cent that I bought out of such a box for $3.50, and which low magnification revealed to be the doubled date variety (FS-301, Snow-1) listed in the Redbook and currently valued at $60 in Good (Coin World). Have your current price guide when you check through these boxes, as the prices for the items offered in them range from very fair to being overpriced.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please note that the NGC Registry forum is for topics pertaining to the NGC certified coin registry. For best attention, questions like yours should be posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum. Your 1965 Lincoln cent is not a mint error or a rare coin. It has been plated or perhaps painted with a shiny, silvery substance, as I understand was frequently done years ago in high school chemistry labs or for sale as a novelty. You can see the underlying copper showing through where the plating has worn off in several places on each side.

I thought that the coin was a dime but wasn't sure. For your and other readers' information, I am posting NGC photos of an 1821 large date Capped Bust dime in About Uncirculated or so condition. Note the shape of the numerals in the date, especially the "2". All large date varieties have this date style. There is a single "small date" variety that definitely doesn't match either. This is why I think that your coin is a contemporary counterfeit.

Apparently, the Director was unsuccessful in preventing release of the "finned" coins, as I understand that the pieces with "wire rims" constitute the majority of the 1907 high relief double eagles in existence today.

It's clearly a "Small 6". On the "Large 6", the 6 protrudes into the bust as in the photo posted above. (A "Large 6" without stems would be quite a discovery.) NGC apparently requires payment of the $18 VarietyPlus fee to attribute an 1806 half cent as anything other than just an "1806". To the topic author--Either Mr. Guth misquoted the Cohen reference, or the Cohen reference is misworded, as that reference itself lists and describes the common (for a half cent) 1806 Small 6, No Stems variety. Even the more reliable resources such as Coinfacts (and even the "Redbook") contain some errors. For future reference, please post topics of this nature in the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum or the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum, where they may receive better attention. The NGC Registry forum is for topics pertaining to the NGC certified coin registry.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. I don't know what page on the PCGS website you read, and I don't have a copy of the Cohen half cent book, but every source I checked, as well as my own memory, indicates that 1806 Small 6 half cents come both with and without stems. The standard "Redbook" (2023 edition at p. 91) lists three categories of 1806 half cents described as "Small 6, Stems" (worth a significant premium), "Small 6, Stemless", and "Large 6, Stems", with the latter two categories pricing the same in all listed grades. PCGS Coinfacts lists the 1806, Small 6 half cent at https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1806-1-2c-small-6-no-stems-bn/1093. See also Draped Bust Half Cents (1800-1808) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). The Cohen die variety designation for this variety is C-1, and it is apparently the most common variety of 1806 half cent. It is the 1806, Large 6, that is only known to exist with stems.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your well-worn ("Poor" grade) coin is one of the earlier or "open collar strike" version of the Capped Bust design used on U.S. dimes (1809-27), quarter dollars (1815-28), and half dollars (1807-36). Your photos don't give me a good sense of the size of the coin, and I can't tell whether the denomination stated below the eagle is "10C.", "25C.", or "50C.". (Cropping your photos so that they show as little as possible of the surface surrounding the coin might help.) A dime of that era should have a diameter of approximately 18.8 mm, a quarter 27 mm, and a half dollar 32.5 mm. The half dollars should have a lettered edge. The date elements, especially the numeral "2", do not appear to match the style for any of these denominations used on coins dated 1821. It is possible that your coin is a counterfeit that was made at around the time of the genuine coins to be passed as money rather than to deceive collectors. (Some collect such "contemporary" counterfeits, and it could be worth more to such collectors than the few dollars that the genuine coin would be worth in this low grade.)

This 2019 Canada .9999 silver "modified proof" Maple Leaf, NGC graded Modified PF 69, accompanied the previously posted enhanced reverse proof U.S. silver eagle as part of the "Pride of Two Nations" set. Except for a small area of discoloration (tarnish?) on the rim, I see nothing that would make its condition superior to the U.S. coin, which graded "70".

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please note that the NGC Registry forum is for topics pertaining to the NGC certified coin registry. For best attention, questions like yours should be posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum or the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum. Additionally, please crop your photos so that they show to the greatest extent possible the coin and not the surface that surrounds it. The NGC World Coin Price Guide indicates that this 1991 Polish 50 Groszy is a common coin with a mintage of over 99 million pieces and a catalog value in circulated condition like this of ten cents. See Poland 50 Groszy Y 281 Prices & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). Why did you think that it is rare?

Welcome to the NGC chat board. See the third and fourth "Frequently Asked Questions" on the following page: NGC Grading FAQs - NGC Labels and Holders | NGC (ngccoin.com). It does not appear that you will be able to keep the current label if you reholder, but you may wish to contact NGC Customer Service (linked in the answer to the third question) or post this inquiry in the "Ask NGC/NCS" forum for an answer from the NGC staff.

Then he or she would be a really bad engraver.

On your submission form, which of "VarietyPlus" or "Mint Error" did you select for these coins? I have heard of submitters selecting the wrong classification and the coin not being attributed as a result, notwithstanding the $18 fee being paid. Although the mint does not intentionally produce coins from doubled dies, they are classified as die varieties instead of mint errors because the pertinent characteristic, in this case doubling, is in the die itself and should manifest itself in all coins struck from that die. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com). The FS-101 1969-S doubled die quarter is listed in the latest (Sixth) edition of The Cherrypickers' Guide to Rare Varieties as well as in VarietyPlus. The Cherrypickers Guide shows valuations of $125 graded PF 63, $225 in PF 65, and $350 in PF 66. You may wish to check recent auction results for prices realized. Here is one of the VarietyPlus photos. Doubling is also seen on "LIBERTY".

Welcome to the NGC chat board. The "Coin Marketplace" forum is devoted to topics containing offers to buy or sell coins, in accordance with the "Coin Marketplace Guidelines" posted near the top of the forum. Topics like yours should be posted in and receive better attention in the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions." I assume that by your question you mean, "Should I submit this coin to a third-party grading service such as NGC?" The answer is a definite NO! You "get a coin graded" by studying and referring to a grading guide and, with experience, forming a reasonable opinion of the coin's grade yourself. If you determine that the likely grade and other characteristics of the coin would cause it to have a sufficient market value (at least several hundred dollars, in my opinion) to make it worth the cost of submission, then and only then should you even consider submitting it to a grading service. In the case of a 2021-D Lincoln cent submitted to NGC, that cost would include, in addition to a paid NGC membership (at least $95 per year), a $19 "Modern tier" grading fee, a $10 per order processing fee, a $28 per order return shipping fee, and your cost of shipping the coin to NGC. Very few if any 2021-D cents (over 4 billion minted) would be worth the cost of third-party grading at this time. The NGC Price Guide does not show a market value for them in any grade. Your coin, which I assume you found in a mixed roll of cents, has scrapes on the rims, exposing its zinc core, and is consequently a damaged coin worth its face value of one cent. Even if it were not scraped, it is lightly circulated and has lost part of its mint color and would still be worth face value. If you are interested in collecting U.S. coins, please see the following topics to obtain the necessary resources to learn about them:

No, a die crack, which isn't part of what the coin's designers and engravers intended it to look like, isn't "part of the design." It is simply a manifestation of die failure. You could also insist that a cow is a horse, but that wouldn't make it a horse.

Yes, there are several small ticks on the obverse, at least one of which is observable at certain angles to my nearsighted eyes without magnification. There are also striations on the obverse rim that are observable in the photo in the area of the date and may be "as made" but are still imperfections.

1813 Classic Head large cent, now NGC graded XF 40:

2019-W Enhanced Reverse Proof Silver American Eagle, NGC graded ER PF 70:

Any Colonial or Post-Colonial issue should do, as would any coin, token or medal dated 1787. Unfortunately, I don't have any others. Could anyone else help?

The people at ICG could be the only ones who could answer this question.

The cracks don't look exactly like the frosted devices, whose contrast I understand is enhanced during the die preparation process by (depending on the era) a nitric acid solution, sandblasting, or lasers. However, the metal that squeezed into the die crack doesn't have the mirror surface of the fields imparted either, so it contrasts with the fields. The 1958 quarter that you originally posted wouldn't qualify for a "cameo" designation, but the crack still contrasts with the field.

Unfortunately, as in many other contexts, websites vary in quality, and some sites, like the one to which you refer, include incomplete, incorrect, or misleading information. Others contain outright lies. I have never previously heard of and could find no reference to wide and close "AM" varieties for Lincoln, Memorial reverse, cents prior to 1992 in either the standard or deluxe ("Mega Red") version of the "Redbook", nor on NGC VarietyPlus, PCGS Coinfacts, doubleddie.com, nor lincolncentresource.com. See, for example, https://lincolncentresource.com/wideams.html, for an overview of the known wide and close "AM" varieties. One of the major areas of Internet disinformation about coins is that rare and valuable pieces can be found in circulation. This is only true in the sense that one can also win a billion-dollar prize in the Mega Millions or Powerball lotteries. It would be quite unusual even to find a coin worth a few dollars in your change, much less one worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. I'm in your age group but, unlike you, began collecting and studying U.S. coins over fifty years ago. I understand that it is somewhat different to begin collecting later in life. As I'm sure you have learned, however, nothing worthwhile in life can be achieved without knowledge, experience, and effort. At a bare minimum, you must acquire and study a current or recent standard "Redbook" and a grading guide and subscribe to a current price guide. You also must familiarize yourself with the appearance of genuine, unimpaired examples of the coins you want to collect. You may wish to limit your collecting to one or two series of coins or assemble a type set instead of trying to collect a broad range of coins. If you intend to spend a substantial amount of money without acquiring substantial knowledge, you should limit your purchases to coins certified by reputable third-party grading services such as NGC, PCGS, CAC Grading, and ANACS. Participants in these forums are volunteers who are trying to help educate new collectors like you. You're not bothering us, provided that you take our advice seriously.