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Greenstang

Member: Seasoned Veteran
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Everything posted by Greenstang

  1. Early gold coins are among the most counterfeited of US coins. Going back to about 1853, gold coins hold 43 out of 50 top positions of the most counterfeited coins.
  2. I usually just go by the distance between the 2 and the border. If you can fit another letter between the space it is a Small Date. If it is closer to the border it is a Large Date. This way if the numbers are worn or damaged, you can still tell the difference.
  3. Just guessing here but it could possibly be an assayers mark verifying that it is gold. much like the trade dollars that were counterstamped proving them to be genuine.
  4. Just noticed this now that you have had no reply. According to PCGS, there were 5 minted and 4 graded by them.
  5. I am repeating myself here but as I have stated previously, do NOT go by the distance in the AM, there are two many variables. Either go by the distance of the initials from the memorial as Coinbuf. has indicated or by the TAT in states. If the A is centered ( A T A), then it is a WAM. If the A is off to the right (T AT) then it is a CAM. This way there should be no confusion about the distance between the A and M.
  6. Welcome to the forum That is clearly a counterfeit, just compare with a photo of a genuine coin. How much is the seller asking? That is about a $300.00 coin if genuine.
  7. They were all like that in 1978 . When comparing coins, make sure you compare with the same year as ther can be small variations from year to year.
  8. FS stands for Full Steps. I see no sign of a Doubled Die, maybe a bit of Machine Doubling and/or Die Deterioration.
  9. Welcome to the forum Even if it was a “over mint mark” which it can’t be, it would be a variety, not an error, big difference.
  10. That is what is known as a Texas Cent, the larger size verifies that. By placing it between two pieces of leather and pounding it which expands the zinc core, the copper plating breaks off leaving the zinc exposed. No extra value as it is considered damage but keep as a novelty if you like. An example of another Texas Cent.
  11. Welcome to the forum What you have is a Close AM worth 1 cent. As mentioned, in the future post in the newbie forum.
  12. This is a duplicate post. Posted this one Wednesday evening and reposted Thursday morning.
  13. Die Deterioration Doubling does not add any value to the dime. It is one of the worthless types of doubling.
  14. If you don’t believe a seasoned veteran with over 6500 posts that specializes in cents, then I guess no one else will be able to help you. ( In my humble opinion, I agree with Coinbuf)
  15. As Coinbuf stated, best to Ask NGC directly for best answer.
  16. If it is from an engraving tool and I will have to take your word for it,(can’t tell from the photo) then it would be considered a damaged coin, no matter how well it was done. Doesn’t really matter though as most Sacajawea dollars are only worth a dollar.
  17. Don’t know why all the photos are upside down but that looks more like Die Deterioration Doubling. Certainly not a Doubled Die. Note: The correct terminology is Doubled Die
  18. This is the forum for buying/selling coins, I have asked that it be moved. It looks like a copy, it is too round and has rims which ancient coins don’t have.
  19. Lack of partial rim suggests it has been ground, sanded down, not an error.
  20. A Doubled Die is not an error, it is a variety. What you have is Machine Doubling, aka Strike Doubling, not a DD.
  21. Welcome to the forum That is not an error, it is damage. Looks like it has taken a hit. displacing some of the metal, note the rim. In the future, please show a photo of both sides of the coin instead of two of the same side. Sometimes this can help with the diagnostics.