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Greenstang

Member: Seasoned Veteran
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Everything posted by Greenstang

  1. glad that you changed your mind. In the future if you are looking at buying higher dollar coins, just post a clear photo of both sides of the coin on this forum and some one here should be able to help identifying whether it is genuine or not. Also if genuine, state the asking price to see if it is worth it or not.
  2. Not a Doubled Die, that is Machine Doubling, a worthless type of doubling. Also a Doubled Die is not an error, it is a variety.
  3. Definitely a counterfeit, all you have to do is compare your photo to a genuine one.
  4. It would cost you $55-60.00 to have it graded (not appraised) which would far exceed the value of the coin.
  5. It is damage, there is no way that could happen during the striking of the coin at the mint.
  6. You should really start a new thread for each coin and you would get more response by posting in the Newbie forum. You didn’t state what you want to know but what you have is a damaged dime worth 10 cents.
  7. Same as your other post, it is still a Large Date.
  8. Certainly not a Die Clash. It has been struck through grease or grit. There are also circulation dings on it.
  9. In that condition, it would cost more to grade than what it is worth aside from the fact that it is holed which would make it a detail coin.
  10. Lots of damage (PMD) on both sides of that nickel. What you have is impossible to happen during the striking of the coin.
  11. Agree with Sandon, a small die crack and machine doubling, neither of which add any numismatic value.
  12. It is machine doubling that the die has bounced twice. I have seen this on other occasions.
  13. Please do not use screen shots, they are too pixilated to see detail clearly.
  14. Agree wwith Just Bob, variety 10 has the mm under the 9, yours is under the 8. Tee location has to be exact.
  15. I believe the OP thinks he has this but he doesn't https://www.error-ref.com/?s=mule+die+clash
  16. As an added bonus, this is the difference between the 2 1966 varieties
  17. For the benefit of Henri and others that might be interested in the 5 different 1965 dollar varieties
  18. So sorry about that Henri, didn’t know you were so interested in Canadian coins but I was just answering the OP’s question with no additional information which was not requested. Of course you will get a refund of your money, satisfaction guaranteed or your money back. I don’t normally volunteer too much additional info. I was once told by an OP after giving info that was not asked that he didn’t ask for more info, he just wanted his question answered. There are 3 different sizes of beads and a blunt and pointed 5 with different combinations making up the 5 varieties. I am away from my computer right now but when I get home ( after the Super Bowl), I will certainly post photos so you will be able to tell the different varieties yourself.
  19. Don’t know where you read that but there were 5 varieties of the 1965 silver dollar, none of which are rare. The first 4 of which yours is part of all have the same approximate value, especially if circulated. Variety 5 which is the only variety with Medium Beads is worth a little more as it is harder to find. I have all five varieties in my silver dollar collection, non of which cost me more than $35.00 in MS condition. It is the 1966 Small Bead that is rare and is worth 4 figures in MS shape.
  20. I hope that it does not take 52 posts to convince you like it did on the other forum. Just send it in and prove everyone on both forums that we are all wrong.
  21. Hard to tell from that pixilated photo, you are not even showing the complete clash but from what I can see I would say no, it is not a mule die clash. Also do not use screen shots.
  22. Mercury dimes do not have a Full Torch, they have Full Bands which yours obviously is not. It is the Roosevelt dimes that have a Full Torch.
  23. Don’t waste your time on minor anomolies. The mint produces coins at high speed and puts production over quality. If you increase the size enough, you could probably find something wrong with just about any coin. As Sandon stated, ,if you can’t see a major error without increasing the size, then it’s not worth worrying about. Put away the microscope and read up on how coins are minted what an actual error looks like.