KarenHolcomb

Ok. I suppose I somehow failed to offer photos. Lol! Probably because I hadn't taken any yet. I have now. I guess the norm is 10% on most coins? So my 1907 IHC at 3.30 is well within the given parameters. Oh well. I just liked the Coin and bought it. I am happy with it. Yeah! So here are my photos taken just for y'all. So what do you think?! -Karen

Hi guys, my title is my complete question. I did google it but can't find the +- allowance. A 1907 IHC. Mine weighs in at 3.30g. Thanks- Karen

@Thompson2 hey that's the same site I found earlier this evening that I was telling you about.

Definitely a Lam issue. Idt it's a defective planchet though. Likely there was an IAM that was peeled off, per se. Kind of like a blow he or fissure that doesn't go all the way through. I have several similar and have never been able to come up with the correct term so I always go with Fissure because that seems to fit beat, imo.

Very nice, my friend. I'm so glad I found the posting. I shall now do some research for you. I absolutely LOOOVE that Reverse Crack.

@Thompson2 this might help. http://www.error-ref.com/?s=Plating+blister

I think the Spiked Head designation generally applies to the Obverse of the coin. On the Reverse is still a break, just not with the cool moniker.

Idk? But there are no known DDR's for the year and mint. I would say it's abraded to erase a DD. Or maybe like a design berm. http://www.error-ref.com/abrasion-doubling/

Oh, and what does ODD stand for?

Hi guys. I have a question. Well I kinda already asked it in my title so I will provide these 2 photos and maybe you guys can say whether there is a gouge present in both. Cause I really don't really know much about the stages other than markers lessen as the stages get weaker. Thanks for looking.

Rare moment here, coming at ya!!! I am totally with the guys on this one. XF 40 it is. Nice color with a tight woodgrain going on. And yes, a Woody is the result of an IAM. You may also see Wheaties with roller marks that will appear to be a Woody, but the grainy appeal will not cover the entire surface of the coin, but rather will be more centralized and fade out around the edges. Sorry about that, but y'all know how I tend to get carried away and get windy sometimes. Especially on topics I've been previously schooled on.

It isn't what they call a goiter, is it? I've only ever seen pics of one before but it involved the check and neck area.

Glad you reminded me. 29d, 35d, 36s, and 2-39 s and d.

Your 1947 would sell for $10-15. The 1980 I fiund for sale asking $35. But the complete set for $199.

Where on earth fid this post go anyway?! I am so confused right now that my head may actually be spinning around with pea soup erupting from my mouth.

@Greenland As far as the value of any Coin, it is however much someone is willing to pay. I know, sounds cliche, but it's true. I found that watching Fb auctions has given me a good idea of monetary value for raw Coins. Idk if you are on FB or not but it's an idea. I would never sell an album if I still had any. Had over 2000 as a teenager and my mother trashed them when she trashed us. Albums are making a big come back right now. As far as cards go, my Daddy-O had all Donruss, Topps, Etc from like 195? Boxes of unopened bubblegum packs. Total of 19 file boxes full when he passed. His brother caught him while not in his right head and had him write down that he got them. I was livid but wouldn't fight him. Just wished Dad was still there. 19 boxes. Plus notebooks full hand written stats for every game ever played since 1952.

Looks like a Dryer Coin to me. Am I incorrect?

I love, love, LOVE mine! My Proof is gorgeous and flaw free but my RP not so flawless with multiple scratches. If they don't manage to get the Unc Sets out this year I will be highly disappointed. Having all 3 is important to me and if the RO wasn't so messed up I'd only have them graded as a set.

I'm with kbbpll on using 'no mint mark' for Philly struck Coins. I think there are like 2 or 3 Coins that don't have a MM but should and are valuable. So it isn't necessary to point out that there isn't a MM. @Jonescoins I would suggest, to take better photos, investing $5 in a clip-on Macro Lens from WalMart on-line, and in the meantime, just yesterday I found the most wonderful magnifying app for both Android and Apple called Cozy Magnifier and Microscope. Once you get your clip on lens they can be used together for the most amazing shots. There are ads when you first open the app but then none after, and even those can be immediately closed. For a small one time fee you can get the upgraded version that's even better with no ads.

Well I'm gonna have to look into these symbols. Thanks for educating me to them. I usually go to en.numista.com because I wasn't aware the our Host had such a area for review and because it is a very easy site to navigate for just about any Coin I've had occasion to look up.

Yep, changing their positions or order doesn't change the fact that they are damage after leaving the Mint location.

Severely Damaged by someone that was severely bored.

I think it is a slightly off center coin, both dies, at least for the one on top. I also believe the bottom one had a Misaligned Rev Die. BUT for either error a Coin must be pretty severely OC or MAD to make it a worthy error. Some say as much as 25% or more.

http://www.maddieclashes.com/denominational-overlays/

Good looking coin though. Now put it back into it's holder and don't touch it again without gloves on. Uncirculated Coins can be severely damaged by the oils in your fingers and hands and deem them worthless.