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KarenHolcomb

Member: Seasoned Veteran
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Everything posted by KarenHolcomb

  1. @VKurtB, thanks. Nice to read you as well Sir. Yes, I have the SMS Sets and you are correct. In my defense, I didn't include the years below 1970 in my comment. I don't look at my coins much anymore but I seem to recall thinking that the QC standards were severely lacking from around 1979 on with regard to most circulating coins struck. I could be off though.
  2. 70's, 80'd, 90's...heck, I'd like to see a Dime from any year prior to 2000 that wasn't mushy and worn.
  3. Idk? But he sure did act like him and talked about a few of the same coins. Then he left in a hurry. Doesn't matter, I suppose. I hope you all are doing well?
  4. Nevermind. Figured it out and called him out. He quickly left the group so I am sure I was correct. Real name, maybe anyways, is Mark Dalton.
  5. Somebody please remind me what some of Jonescoins aliases are please? I'm about to blow him out of the water on FB.
  6. Totally off topic here, but I didn't want to make a separate post and figured those present here would 'get it'. I think I found our friend on FB. Lol!
  7. @Coinbuf the 2009's are Satin Finished I think is why there is no Lustre. Idk if Satin are supposed to have it or not.
  8. Hi guys. I have never once asked for grading opinions from you, so I hope you will offer your opinions for me today. I've been weeding out my 'collection' and have some that if they would grade high enough then would be worth my sending them in. I'm not looking for MS-68 or 70's, just honest opinions. Thanks a bunch- Karen
  9. I think what you see on the ear is your lighting or possible rotational md. The rest is Machine or Mechanical Double. Roosevelts are known for just this kind of mushiness. Idk if it because they are so small and the characters so big or what, but it is quit common. As far as why there aren't more known examples of DD's on them, forr that I have no answer. http://www.error-ref.com/?s=Machine+Doubling
  10. @CRAWTOMATIC agreed. @RWB @Coinbuf when I started out a regular 3x/7x glass is what I used. And I did have a great eye. Unfortunately my pup stuck his nose in my eye and my vision started going from there. Within a couple of weeks I could no longer see the details of any coin, with or without glasses. Gave me a whole new understanding of what it is like for people with bad vision. So I was kind of forced to turn to a loupe and when things are especially blurry my phone with Macro. So please don't be so quick to make statements like the above because there are a lot of peeps in the world that simply cannot see without help. Thanks- Karen
  11. Yes, if you are using the app I would start it at 1x to focus and then bring it in. On my phone it would give me 7x. I think it started at 5x though and. a few days later updated to 7x. Since my phone does 8x I don't use it anymore but still have it so I don't forget the name if my next phone isn't as good. Lol! About 4-5 inches sounds right to me. I heard someone say once that a pop can makes a perfect stand so I suppose that about 4-5". As far as what mag I am using, it is 17x with my phone and my lens. Can't miss much there, but remember that graders use either 5x or 7x, I forget which.
  12. Ok. What I do is bring the coin into focus at whatever distance necessary without enlarging. Once it is in focus is when I enlarge it. I mean it is only going to be in focus clearly at one distance. And the Cozy Mag App is about the best free app out right now. I also use a 10x clip on Macro Lens that brings it to 17X, because my Pixel goes to 8x. Now, to what I think is really your question...yes, you can get too close. At least as far as I'm concerned. To me some people try so hard to get in there and show what they see that often times idek what part of the coin I'm even looking at. This is partly why we ask you for shots of both sides of a coin and shots of whatever area you are seeing what you are seeing. See? Lol! This way we can enlarge you photos to try and see what you can see and also so we can look for markers. But for example, if you think you see a double ear on a 94 Lincoln. So your close-up should show the ear. The whole ear. Not just the lobe. Does that help?
  13. Not even a Die Crack at the bottom of the bust. But I had fun and I have the bag. Maybe a 68 or 69 but still have only glanced at them.
  14. @RWB that is really cool. Thanks for sharing. Unfortunately idt my bag was made back then but yeah, I am thrilled to have it. I still haven't opened it. B6uf hope to get to it today. I'll let y'all know if I find a Missing clad or something.
  15. You know, a couple of years ago the Mint out out a Rocket Ship Kids Set. It sold out pretty quickly but I'm sure you could find one on ebay. They were neat and I wish I'd gotten one. Also, Britain, I guess, puts out some pretty sweet Coins with different animals on them. Does he like Airplanes? Cause I have a set of WWII Warplanes from the Perth Mint I need to get shed of. They aren't in the best shape because I had to handle them trying to figure out their content, but they are still super shiny and generally a nice set. Even have a COA to go with them.
  16. Well, there are no DDO's for the date and Mint, and so nothing to compare it to, and your photos, while cropped, are not close ups of any area that would allow me to see any of the other stuff you mention. It def wouldn't be unheard of to find an unattributed DD 40+yrs later so if you really think there is something there either get better photos or send it in and see what they say. Good luck.
  17. Def MD in the places you are referring to, but there are 2 DDR's for the date and Mint. Your Coin is a little beat up so I can't really see to tell if there are any splits at the tops of your letter. You having it in hand will be able to compare it to Wexlers site. https://doubleddie.com/1829488.html