KarenHolcomb

One more here...Tooting my own horn...I do take phenomenal shots that become great photos by the time I'm done with them. All with very little effort but maybe a little too much time.

As far as lighting goes, I am a fan of the Photo Box to produce photos so lighting is not an issue. Very easy to make and only costs whatever you pay for a box, a half sheet of poster board, tape, and tissues. Oh! And 2 similar sized lamps with twin bulbs. I prefer White HD bulbs at about 800 Lumens over the more yellow filament type. Took me about 20 minutes to make mine and my video has been used by lots of other peeps in making their own.

Pfft! Err! I used a scope for all of 5 minutes before I gave it away. I prefer my 10x Macro lens clipped to my pixel 3a that mags up to 7x and once I pick my best shot taken I can crop the photo up to 4x more in Edits. I think a lot of the problem people have taking nice close and CLEAR photos is that they think they have to TAKE the perfect picture. That's not so. You have to take a butt load of Shots to get the perfect SHOT to be your photo. You pick your best shot and make it a great photo via edits. Do you get what I'm trying to put across? Imo a scope doesn't take shots that we make into photos. They take photos without there ever being a Shot. (Make sense?) And the photos are SO close up that you can't tell if you're seeing an ear or a fold or even of which side of the Coin you are seeing.

Shame on you. Lmfbo

You da man, Conder.

I should come more often.

@TridmnDude, I thought I had a bad attitude, but you whoop my spoons with yours. That said, all you need to take a great shot is whatever phone you have and a $5 clip on Macro lens. A single regular bulb 2' or so over your workspace. That's it. You could also make a picture box. If you google wikihow.com/picture box it might come right up. It might not. But They Are easily made. I have a great article on the US Mint History and How Coins are made. Only way I can share it is via email. If you want it let me know. Point is, these guys really tried to be helpful with you but you won't even let them. You are one of those Newbies that everyone dreads to deal with yet you see they still try to educate you knowing full well that you are an aspoon. You should listen. Not only hear. Let me know if you want the article.

@J P MashokeHey again. I think if you go back in time, not sure the exact year but early 60's I think, any Proof Coins prior to the date that have a Cameo finish are more valuable because they didn't do the striking the same so only the 1st few Coins from each Die Set were Cameo at all and all the rest would just be super shiny. Then after a certain date when they changed the process, I'm sure we could look it up but me and Google don't get along so they rarely give me pertinent search results, all the Proofs were Cameo to Deep Cameo and so aren't as valuable. Also, if you are going for monetary value in the future, maybe for sending that grdaughter to college, you might want to consider moving away from Proof Sets and get you some Uncirculated Sets. That's where the money is.

@J P MashokeHey Dude, with 7 pages of comments I just can't do that right now. But reading through the 1st page I noticed some things you said that gave me questions to ask you. Do you know, better,have you read any articles or watched any videos on the total process of striking a Coin? And do you know about things like Die Marriages? Like with the Dimes that had the same scratches, for example, that is because the scratch isn't on the Coins but rather is on the Die that Struck them. And I think, not sure because idk enough about it, your 'Tall A' could be due to a change of the Working Hammer Die, ie, a new Die Marriage. The Anvil Die may stay the same but the Hammer Die may have broken and been changed out, or visa versa. See? So the 2 original Dies got divorced and a new Hammer man came in and was married to the Anvil that had remained in use. See what I mean? Just thought if you didn't already know that kind of stuff my words would be important to you. If nobody in those other 6 pages hadn't already mentioned it. Karen

@Just BobI only have 3 of my own discoveries, Bob. These included. But since I don't Roll Hunt I don't really see enough Coins to get a lot. Just my pocket change and with that almighty debit card my pocket change is dwindling. I have sent in maybe 10 but they weren't right. I kinda got butthurt over it pretty quickly. You know me. Lol! So I stopped sending them. But these were different and I was sure about them. I currently have a 1948 LWC with Doubling of the eye that I plan to send in. That would be cool if it turns out to be all good. Also a 1997 and 2006 LMC's and a 2020 Nickel that I probably won't get in to Ribar before someone else does. I think the only reason I got these is because people don't even think to look there. Since 2010 there are only 3 years that have had these, that are listed anyways. @RWBThanks a bunch! I am pretty stoked about it.

Okie doke. Last one. #5 will be listed as 2019P Dime WDDR-006. Whoop! Whoop! Yay ME!!! So that's it then. Thanks for looking. Happy hunting! -Karen

Ok. #4 - 5 photos. Too minor to list.

#3 - 5 photos. This one will be listed as WDDR-004 for the year and Mint Facility. Whoop! Whoop! Yay me!

#2 - 5 photos Again, too minor to list.

Since most of my FB Groups want me to share all the Coins, even if they were too minor to list, that's what I'll do here as well. Numbers 1, 2, and 4 were too minor to make the listings. So you do not want to keep them if you come across one. Numbers 3 and 5 are the ones you want to save when you find them. Idk much about setting the Markers on a Coin so for those we'll have to wait for Wexler to update doubleddie.com with his own photos and explanations. #1 is first and is 5 pics total.

Hi Fellows! Look at me! Look at me! I may not be able to see Doubling on characters anymore but I can see it on the designs. I'll add some photos later after I take them. FYI to all the Newbies... there's always a Coin that can be found that hasn't been yet. Now I have a 1948 LWC that I found just last night that has yet to be discovered with doubling of the eyelid, as well as a 1997 and 2006 LMC's with undiscovered DDR's to send in. And a 2021 Nickel to send in to Ribar. Anyway.....And so, I shall continue to live on in infamy. I'll see y'all later with the photos. Ta-ta for now- Karen

Yeah. I was about to delete my question but saw y'all had responded. I do not know why the Copper didn't show up when I searched en Numista but it did when a Friend searched it. They separated them onto 2 different pages which makes no sense. Anyway, I was crossing my fingers so tightly. Lmbo! Such is life. I'll get it one of these days. Thanks guys!!!

Hi guys. It's me again. I have this 1983 Panamanian Un Centesimo that weighs in at a very heavy Copper like weight of 3.14. en Numista only lists the 83 as a Copper/Zinc that should weigh in at a fit 2.5g. Were we making their Coins in 83 and did they switch to zinc like we did? Halfway through the year? I admit that idk where to look for listings of varieties and errors on Foreign Coins. Do I have something special here? I depend on en Numista for value and would hate to think that they aren't listing this a a Variety. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks -Karen

@zadokI am sorry I didn't see this earlier. I just this minute crawled into bed but will look at the face tomorrow. I imagine you are correct, as the rest of the guys, that it's probably just used in the numerals and possibly the hands. I sure can't imagine Herky spending an extra dime on a different chain. Just when I looked it up and it was a metal and supposedly a rare one, and then the guys told me about it being used in paint with him retiring from DuPont and them making paint and plastics there... I just drew the wrong conclusion is all. But I know better now. Btw, I am once again in awe of all you guys in this forum that just know something about everything. I honestly am not joking when I say I feel smarter every time I click away.

@RWBGood info Sir. Thanks a bunch. I don't suppose it would akin to like asbestos and Black and White Lung but people who worked at places like Dupont that got Cancer they just blamed it on White Lung because if they attributed it to the Radium they'd be more culpable. Anyway, that's off track, I suppose. @Conder101 Let me first say that there are many new people here in the forum since I was last here. Cool! So if the hands and numerals and the like is what Radium would have been used in then why on earth would they stamp it into the chain? Is it THAT toxic, or just a warning? I have learned so much here about a topic that I will likely never discuss again in my lifetime. But by gosh if anybody ever broaches the subject in my presents I will be the know-it-all at the party. Lol! They say it's a wasted day when you don't learn new stuff. Off subject a teensy bit here...while I haven't seen Radium Girls, I will probably watch it, but has anybody seen The Toxic Avenger? Now there's a B flick that is so awful that it's great. Thanks everyone for participating in my thread and passing on your knowledge. I have enjoyed being back for a while.- Karen

@Morpheus1967 sounds cool. Thanks. @GBrad yeah, I'll stick to windows. Lol!

Are they super girls?

@Modwriter yeah, I don't see me going through all that. Lol! Gee whiz. Right?

@Modwriter that's pretty neat, Mike. @GBrad yes, I read where it said Radium was used in watches, well this is what it said, "Manufacturers used radium until the early 1970s for swlf luminous paints for watches, aircraft switches, clocks, and instrument dials'. I suppose that kind of answers my ultimate question. I read it wrong the first time. Guess I just saw the word Watches and I had one in my hands. So I guess it's likely that whatever metal the watch is made of is coated with Radium.