powermad5000

My question got no response. Hmm....

I would say this would result from a partial collar as it's shape seems not exactly round (evidenced as well in the photo of the reverse) but the coin still retains its reeded edge around the coin. I note the reeding near the main defect looks to be a little "weak" which would be in line with a partial collar. How this coin got out from the Mint as a proof which should have commanded more scrutiny. I would think amongst error collectors with it being a proof that should not have this kind of defect that this coin would gain some substantial premium, how much could not be determined as its final gavel price would be whatever error collectors would bid it up to. I, like @Henri Charriere, also have never seen a proof with such a defect.

Hello! While ANACS might attribute this particular VAM, it seems to not be recognized by either NGC nor PCGS. That being said, it may be too minor of a variety or just not of much interest even to VAM collectors. If I were buying this particular coin because I wanted it, I would pay no more than the current price guide value for a non VAM 1878 S which NGC currently has listed as $85 for an MS 62, so in reality, I would pay no more than $75 for it, and possibly less if it does not have good eye appeal. If the seller is asking a large premium, it may just be because of the label on the ANACS slab, but remember whatever the slab says, the market may dictate otherwise. If you pay extra for a largely unrecognized VAM, which may have little interest to collectors when you go to sell it, it would be on you. You will not be able to cross over this coin to an NGC or PCGS slab as they will grade it without the VAM number or description as they do not recognize that particular VAM number, so that coin is basically stuck in that ANACS slab.

Do you have a question about this very heavily damaged quarter? Also, in the future when posting topics of a coin, please provide cropped photos that show the coin and not the background on which it is resting.

I will state that minor die cracks are not recognized as errors by TPG's and are considered poor quality control as the die that produced coins showing the crack should have long been changed out before cracking from the number and pressure of multiple strikes. TPG's won't attribute die cracks as an error unless the die has literally shattered which would produce some very strange effects on the struck coin. That said, the lighting of the coin in your photos is too dark to be able to attempt to successfully give an opinion of the grade of your coin, but from what I can tell, I see contact marks in Lincoln's bust, some minor hits to the rims, and it seems the center pillars on the memorial are slightly worn. I would say this would grade out no higher than MS 64 RD, and most likely with better lighting probably exposing more flaws, even lower than that. Cents of this era are not worth submitting until they grade at bare minimum MS 67 RD, and even at that level will not gain much premium and grading would still most likey result in a loss of funds or at best a break even. Only at MS 68 RD do these cents gain substantial premiums. I would say if you find this interesting to keep it and put it in a flip and into a box labelled "die cracks".

At first, since I noticed @Sandon's check into this and went to VarietyPlus, I noticed there was a variety for a die clash for this year. I began to think if it were to be possible for that to possibly be a clash of a berry from the wreath on the reverse, but I went to maddieclashes and discovered this would not be the case as evidenced by the photo below I found on their website. I am not sure either what the dot could be. You could maybe post this on the CONECA forum and inquire there if anyone may possibly have some information about it. The shield on the reverse would be in the date so I don't know how the dot got on your cent. Usually we would blame something like that on a die chip, but I have never seen a round die chip. I am not sure, however, if it would add any premium if any premium at all to your cent and would lean toward the latter.

Unless another has been found, which I do not believe has, I only remember learning that only two of these were ever found and yes, both were certified by NGC. Typically, I believe we would hear of a third being found as that news would spread like wildfire in the numismatic community, right @EagleRJO? As for the OP, there are a total of 8 variants of large date and small date 1982 P and D cents but only the transitional bronze 1982 D small date (weight around 3.07-3.08g) is the unicorn everybody thinks they have found. [1982 (P) Large Date Bronze, 1982 (P) Small Date Bronze, 1982 D Large Date Bronze, ***1982 D Small Date Bronze Transitional {unicorn}***, 1982 (P) Large Date Zinc, 1982 (P) Small Date Zinc, 1982 D Large Date Zinc, 1982 D Small Date Zinc].

I think your cent was cleaned at some point and then circulated some after, or was just cleaned and then stored improperly. I also note on the reverse what appears to me to be environmental damage which I also think I see starting on the left side of Lincoln's bust evidenced by the more blackened area on that side. I don't think your coin has what is known as "woodgrain" toning, but I think what I am seeing is environmental damage in different stages on each side of the coin, maybe due to the way the coin was stored and it looks like maybe the reverse was facing up as that side of the coin seems to have suffered more of this damage than the obverse.

Hello and welcome! Your photos are not properly cropped to be able to tell, but as noted by @Sandon this is a popular cent for scammers to modify by adding a mintmark to a plain non mintmarked (P) 1909 cent so scrutiny needs to be taken to check that. Assuming your cent is genuine, it is BN (brown) in color and I would say this coin is a VG 08. The surfaces seem to look original to me and not cleaned. I think the reverse has the effect of partial "woodgrain" toning that I have seen on the obverses and reverses of many cents of this time period. Currently in the NGC price guide a VG is listed at $110. However, that figure given is typically for a certified and holdered example and not raw. A dealer however will probably offer you a little less than half of that figure (probably around $40-50).

I knew this grade would be low. It took me more tries than I care to admit to get a Barber dime to come back graded in MS. This one details wise (not toning wise) looked just like my other "failures" to get one returned in the slab with the MS. This is a tough series to get a good grade on let alone a high grade. I also have a feeling chasing after one of these that it almost seems graders let more marks go when it comes to big silver dollars than when it comes to small dimes, possibly due to the larger surface area. I noted on the OP's coin there was a lack of detail in the hair near the LIBERTY band (first place to show wear on coins in this series), and the band itself was not totally crisp. I also noted the leaves at the bottom on the reverse had a level of light wear, and the kernels of corn in the ear were not full as they showed a light level of wear. I kindly ask to get the respect for my proposed grade.

When do we get the grade reveal from the OP??

I will respectfully disagree with Sandon on this particular post. These two dimes you posted were neither polished or plated. They were merely improperly cleaned. You can see the crud in the areas where the cleaning could not reach. Also with these both being circulated, they were probably cleaned at some point and then circulated some more to gain a little more crud but the circulation gives the high points that appearance since they were previously cleaned.

Since you asked, I'll throw my vote in the hat. AU 55.

I would. Depending on how much I won. I would want to have one Top Pop (not necessarily the most expensive) in each different series (including a Gobrecht and some colonial issues). After that, I would want to complete my Trade Dollar set all in MS 65 or better, and then finish my Morgan set complete with all the VAM's. If I won a ridiculous amount, I would want to start my own coin club where we would meet at least once a year and we would trade or buy at FMV, and attend all coin shows that happen every year at their respective locations to meet with and discuss topics with many people.

Hello again! Thank you for providing the photos requested. While they were not the best, they were sufficient enough to confirm my suspicions regarding your two cents. While it may seem that some on here are "tough" or "hard" on the "new guy", try to remember that you are dealing with different people who have different personalities. While some responses may not seem necessarily "nice", what you do get by asking in this forum is hard truths and hard facts. We are all volunteers here, but there are some of the best numismatists in the country if not in the world right here who are volunteering to answer your question with combined knowledge and expertise. Responses here will not be "sugar coated" but will be fact based and experience based. If it seems some are being hard on the new guy, it is only because we want people to learn correctly and accurately as there is more misinformation out there than actual fact. Personally, I like a good success thread, and while this one was not it, hopefully you continue on and present us with a success in the future.

Hello and welcome to the forum! You are correct in evaluating the coin having a level of environmental damage which would explain its unappealing coloration. I can see some minor pitting in George's hair. I also see some moderate circulation wear and marks from being circulated. I also see some rim damage on the reverse at about 11 o'clock.

I appreciate this info @EagleRJO, and I am sure others reading this thread will find it useful as well. I do have a 1982 P No FG but was unsure of how it came to be. Now I know!

Hello and welcome! As you have not posted clear cropped obverse and reverse photos of each coin, it is hard to advise you on what to do with these cents. There are not many certified by NGC in either BN, RB, or RD so I would say that certification would be helpful with the selling of them as it would remove any doubts about their status. You stated you are sure these are the real deal, but you also state you are only 8 months in to the hobby, so without the photos, we would not be able to say if you are looking at some form of strike/mechanical/die erosion doubling versus true hub doubling that is evidenced on genuine 1969 S DDO's which exhibit very strong, crisp, primary and secondary images easily seen with the naked eye. Being you state you have two of these which are very difficult to find, I could only imagine you are seeing some form of strike doubling. I would request on behalf of the members here that you add photos of your coins to this thread so they can be viewed by the members and you can get better advice on what to do with them. Also, as you are relatively new to the hobby, I suggest you get yourself a current copy of the Redbook of United States Coins, as well as a copy of a book titled ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins, 7th Edition, as well as availing yourself of the online resources available on this page and the PCGS coin page. Please avoid any YouTube hype get rich quick from your pocket change videos, and if on YouTube, only get relevant information from videos made by ANA, ANACS, NGC, PCGS, or the US Treasury, or the US Mint.

As I am not totally familiar with these @EagleRJO, I did my usual browsing on eBay to see what is on there and for the 1972 D, there were several with faint FG initials. I am sure those do not qualify as the true no FG. I am just wondering if you know any info about these and why there are some with a weak FG. Did the FG get filled with grease on the reverse to create the no FG, or was it just left off the die in error?

Your health will always come before coins. Hopefully your health issues were met and resolved.

Eagle was asking you about the 1972 D No FG. The listing you posted Bill is for a 1982 P no FG which is actually pretty easy to get even in decent grades. The 1972 D no FG Eagle was referring to is not even shown in the NGC price guide. It is only shown as one of the varieties for the year and there are no auction results available in NGC to see a price for one of them. I would think you have an uphill battle coming if you want to acquire one of them. PCGS is showing them in their price guide and they have only graded a total of 51 in uncirculated under the two different varieties they list. They are showing $475 for base uncirculated. I think it will be a pricey one if you want one in good condition.

I have a waffled cancelled Missouri quarter. Not sure why I bought it, but I did. So I understand you making this purchase. When I saw it, for whatever reason, I just had to have it. Cool pick up for a half dollar one though!

Hello and welcome! There was a regular circulation 1982 Roosevelt "No P" dime. A mint employee had mistakenly left the mintmark off of one single obverse die which typically struck 70,000-80,000 pieces so they are quite difficult to find and most likely by now all removed from circulation.