Oldhoopster

Sorry to say but the core Layer is copper, which is found on cupronickel coins.  The core layer of 40% silver is 21% silver and 79% copper and that alloy has a silvery color.  Go compare the edge of your coin to that of other 1965-70 halves.  You'll easily see that the core layer doesn't match

I think that last piece of information showing the edge pic is all the proof you need to show it's the standard copper nickel alloy and not a transitional error

On 10/22/2022 at 6:58 PM, Taylor7 said:

The physics of XRF is quite sound, what I don’t trust is the firmware, the stores network security, or their staff. I’ve been targeted by a lot of pathetic online and offline harassment and believe this is one more example. 

...

if the people harassing me can hack a jewelry stores XRF or convince them to deceive me, what makes you think they can’t do the same to a grading company or mail service. 

 

So you're saying that someone hacked the jewelry store XRF or convinced them to give misleading info?  And this same group may Be hacking the TPGs? 

You do understand that the handheld XRF are stand alone units and don't require internet access to work.  Sort of makes it hard to hack now, doesn't it.  More info on handheld XRFs if you want to understand how they work. https://www.911metallurgist.com/blog/portable-xrf-analyzer-price

You have offered no verifiable proof even though you've been offered expert advice. Maybe you should try trolling/scamming the other coin forums.  Guarantee you'll get the same answers you got here

On 10/22/2022 at 12:52 PM, RWB said:

"White Cent" or "White Penny" used in a letter:

Wilmington, Del., March 12, 1890
United States Mint

I beg you to inform me with enclosed card, whether you exchange all white pennies, or
only those which have the Eagle Brand on one side of it, as a party told me, you pay $9.00 for
300 white pennies.

Yours Very truly,
Ella Riuck
807 West 5th Street

Wow. 3 cents apiece. They must have been the wheat cents of the 1890s  

On 10/22/2022 at 3:29 AM, Taylor7 said:

I found a way to test for silver at home that's cheap, easy, reliable, relatively fast (few hours), can test many coins at once, and is 100% accurate (unlike a scale). 

Lo and behold, this 1971-D Kennedy half erroneously struck on a 40% silver planchet! Perhaps the finest known! I'll be making a listing for it on the BST forum shortly. 

My digital scale from Amazon (maxus brand) says this coin weighs 11.32g. Funny though, even though I've calibrated it it seems to underweigh halves and overweigh pennies. Regardless, the tolerance on halves is so wide ***weighing the coin is not an accurate test***

RWB, thank you for making me doubt XRF. Indeed I was told a silver coin was cu-ni. Even have a photo of the machine results. Not sure if it was the shop clerks error or if they should unplug its ethernet cable, if you know what I mean. (I would if I ran a jewelry/coin/bullion shop). 

So how does this test work? Simply place the coin in a sealed container for several hours with some chopped up hardboiled egg whites (not touching, just in the same container). The sulphur in one of the proteins will evaporate and tone the silver in mere hours. I set the container in sunlight to speed it up. I had the coins I tested partially sticking out of their mylar flips so it would be easier to see the difference (see the gold tone on the upper right third in the photo).

The only drawback is this is probably considered artificial toning, so it will need restoration when it does get sent in for grading. 

Sure enough, at least one of the coins I suspected was silver is indeed, and what a gorgeous one at that. Auction records (that I've found so far) are $9,900 for an AU 50-something example and $13,000 for an MS61 on 4-20 2018. 

What do you think mine will grade? Not waiting to grade it to sell it though! Pazuzu's student loan payments are past due!

How do I search auction records for error coins by the way? Is there a way to view populations of them on any of the grading companies sites?

 

 

So you don't trust the XRF data that said it was copper nickel, but you did a test that damages the surface of the coin (your BST ad said you would dip it if desired ).

On 10/21/2022 at 10:49 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

Its not a for figure coin its probably zinc coated. I called the bank today to get more circulated boxes to search for a real 3.1g 1983 bronze cent. I will try to take better pictures though I have a nikon but I misplaced my disk drive so I cant really use the camera to upload picks.

You have me confused. If you don't believe it's a copper planchet, why did you spam multiple old threads with this?  You keep posting about transitional errors. Why?

There are many extremely knowledgeable numismatists on this forum that can help you.  But don't play games.  That's the quickest way for a new collector to get ignored

BTW. Only a handful of transitional 1983 planchets have been authenticated out 775,000,000 minted.  You have a better odds of hitting the Powerball than you do of finding one

No need to post in multiple old threads. As I said in your other post, let's see some close up focused pics and XRF data.  Without authentication from a TPG, your coin is worth 1 cent, regardless of how many times you post on a coin forum.  Or, just send it to NGC

On 10/21/2022 at 7:42 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

 

The only way it will be worth anything is to have it authenticated by a TPG. Until then you just have a 1983 cent in an unverifiable picture.  Worth one cent without verification.  

Did you get an XRF scan? XRF will penetrate the 8 micron thick copper plating and will easily show if it's a zinc or copper  blank.

Take a closeup pic of the coin. It's usually pretty easy to tell if there are plating anomolies.

I would think somebody with a potential 4-5 figure coin would do more than just post "look at my blog".  Let's see some good pics and XRF data. 

The composition of the flying eagle is 88% copper and 12% nickel. Your coins are just showing lots of environmental damage, nothing more

Class IX doubling from the single squeeze process has always been difficult for me to determine.  Most are very minor and it's hard to pick out characteristics like split serifs.  I agree with what @The Neophyte Numismatist said, go to www.doubleddie.com and look for an EXACT match

On 10/20/2022 at 8:54 AM, Jeffery Berry said:

I understand that this is not quite on the topic, but I was recently asked a study task, just about Korean coins (in general, about the monetary system, but I think to cut the task). I would like to know can you do my homework https://essaypay.com/ do-my-homework/ or at least help with advice on where to start.

If you are paying to take a college course, why do you want to have someone do the work and learning for you?  How are you going to learn anything by having others do your work for you.  If you don't want to do the work, drop the course

On 10/19/2022 at 3:33 PM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

If I were a gambling man (too risk averse), I would bet the OP is using coinsandcanada.com as his source.  This website has been talked about in many other forums - it's a better reference than say Etsy, but nothing close to as reputable as the resources you mentioned.

 

I use www.coinsandcanada.com for their price guide which I think is decent but haven't used much else on the site.

If you're trying to convince members that your opinion is correct, you need to post some, data, links or other proof.  Especially if you're going to rely on poor quality pics and then belittle the members for disagreeing like @foundit did.

Lots of wear for a gold coin.  Unlikely worth more than bullion value

On 10/19/2022 at 10:52 AM, foundit said:

I almost forgot to pass this on - if you research  Canadian mint error types, the Canada 25 cent piece has what's called " a rippled strike " that's why , the damage is uniform on both sides - the pics suck, so idk wat ur seeing on ur end - it amazes me the arrogance here, it seems to ooze from the pores so bad ,that the stench , actually comes through the pda- this  coins condition seems to b  a thing that happens north of boarder - if it was road kill or a post mint situation , the damage would have taken the thin nickel finish off and exposed the steel core, no where , is it like that

All we have is your opinion.  How about some pics or links of this type of error.  Surely there must be something out there.  Anything already attributed in a slab?  Anything describing this type of error in a reference like www.error-ref.com ?  Any postings on the various sites from byers, or diamond, or Weinberg talking about this type of error?  Things like that will add credibility to your opinion.  

You could start by posting some decent pics of your coin.  The OP pics do a great job of showing the background but leave the actual coin small and blurry

@pigeonman333rd

Not sure what you're looking at, but the counterstamped coin in the OP is a normal copper plated zinc cent

On 10/16/2022 at 8:39 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

Don't say it's worthless what you have their is a zinc penny that has no copper coating which in todays market has some value ..........

I have found 1943 steel cents indian head pennies and rare transitional cents. If you don't believe me check out the blog on this website labled 1945 cyclonite. Happy coin roll hunting.

 

What type of rare transitional cent did you find?  RWB is the author of a book on experimental and pattern coins from WW II

On 10/15/2022 at 5:47 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

@Oldhoopster:

 

I believe when confronted with hard-ball-playing experienced members, wielding unvarying, collective opinion, any collector, rather than submit, will stand down.  You have been around and about long enough to know better than I would whether any poster ever flat-out contradicted the weight of the evidence and fooled the experts. I'll give you that.  

 

I understand where you're coming from.   I can recall a few instances over the years where the consensus opinion  has been wrong, but in those limited occurrences, it was an unusual, seldom encountered error, and there were always a few knowledgeable people who were contrarians.  But you could probably count them on one hand. 

This example is incredibly obvious to all but the newest collector.  While we try to do our best to answer ALL questions as accurately as possible, if the OP disagrees, shouldn't we give him other options?  Just my thoughts

On 10/15/2022 at 5:05 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

I believe it cruel to suggest anyone submit such coins, thereby compounding the "error" at great cost

Disagree with your comment.  When multiple experienced members are all in agreement that a coin is damaged, but the new collector still disagrees, then authentication by a TPG (or CONECA) would be the next step.  Sometimes tuition can be expensive, but different people learn in different ways.  Just my opinion.  Your mileage may vary

Sorry, but I don't see any die clash.  You can confirm that by looking at the overlay that @Just Bob posted.  @Sandon provided a good explanation of why you don't have a filled die.  It's not uncommon to find this striking weakness on the reverse of many Lincoln Memorial cents and it's not considered an error, just normal process variability

I can't see anything regarding doubling.  You need to be showing the characteristics of true doubling such as split serifs and widening, vs flat and shelflike and thinning.  Not sure what I'm talking about?  I strongly suggest you go www.doubleddie.com and study the info in the tabs.  Until you can tell the difference between true die doubling and mechanical doubling and die deterioration, you'll just keep spinning your wheels

You shouldn't worry about value.  If your searching for errors to make money, you're in the wrong racket. Most of the minor die breaks, clashes, and filled dies have no premium.  Even most minor Doubled dies have little or no value. If you find something you can sell on eBay for a buck or two, your doing well.  Finding a $5-10 error is hitting the jackpot and may only occur every few years.  Once again, the key is knowing if you have an error and not wasting your time on coins like the one you posted

@messydesk runs VamWorld.  I've seen him here occasionally but he usually is on the other boards.  He's a very helpful guy

On 10/11/2022 at 11:32 AM, foundit said:

Wow, deep response man

But an accurate response

Since an error has to occur during the minting or die making process, would you please explain where and how this error occurred?  Many members who are extremely Knowledgeable of the minting process have said that this cannot occur at the mint.  Can you provide additional information on how you believe this occurred? 

Will be waiting for your input

On 10/10/2022 at 9:55 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

No, sir, I would not think of depriving you of the pleasure of answering questions about----what was that word Coinbuf used, Ricky? 

🐓:  U N I C O R N.

----right, unicorns.  

P.S.  You opened the door, counselor!

Would you please clarify this? 

You wrote    P.S.  You opened the door, counselor!

Please don't start any nonsense

You made a statement that basically said we should stop a providing people with information   Why don't we abandon the paternity test approach, and just celebrate the fact that this is a lovely example of a 90% silver half dollar, and leave it at that.    I just wanted to find out if that's what you really thought or if you just got lost in the moment

On 10/10/2022 at 7:30 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

🐓:  Is there anything you can say to brighten things up a little, Q?

Q.A.: Yes, of course. Why don't we abandon the paternity test approach, and just celebrate the fact that this is a lovely example of a 90% silver half dollar, and leave it at that.   

So what it sounds like you're saying is that we should stop answering questions and just tell people that they have pretty coins.  I'm not sure how well that will work.

As @RWB said, analytical equipment is only as good as the people running it.  They need regular calibration, and don't even think about using the handhelds for any trace analysis.  The algorithms are set up for bulk materials

If you think you have an off composition planchet, check the weight. Simple enough