Coinbuf

Congrats, you made short work of the competition for this set.

That is a die crack, dies fail at some time due to the immense pressure that goes into striking coins. There are some coins that have multiple die cracks and those coins were struck just prior to the die falling apart. This is very common on some series of coins and more unusual on others, while interesting it is not considered an error. Die cracks are used by some to help identify die states and can help in verifying counterfeits.

Congrats on your newp! I did not place any bids in that auction so no wins for me.

My initial impression is strike doubling, if it were an rpm and as the top impression is shifted to the right and down I would want to see some faint piece of the undermark both at the bottom and to the right inside of the D loop. While the right loop does look "fatter" I cannot make out any visible separation there or at the bottom. I could be very off base but that is my reasoning, good or bad. Have you posted this on the CONECA forum for additional opinions?

I cannot see an signs of any clashing in the photos, nor do I see any vertical line. Maybe I need thicker glasses.

Unfortunately suffering from an old cleaning, beginning to get some edge tone.

There are many obvious varieties that the TPG's do as part of the grading, the 55/55 Lincoln cent, and the 3 legged bufalo are examples of coins that the TPG's will note on the label and authenticate as part of the grading process/fee. There are others those two are the two that first came to my mind.

I am not aware of any significant DDO's for the shield cents, however I don't collect variety's so I don't follow them that closely. I checked on Variety Vista and I found only two listed DDO's that involve the shield, both from 2021-D coins. Again there could be others listed on other sites like CONECA, however I only checked this one resource, here is a link to the VV website for the shield cents. Variety Vista Generally speaking most of the DDO and DDR's that have happened after the mint went to the single squeeze method of die making have been very minor. As such very few have values over the face value of the coin, most of what folks new to coins think is die doubling is instead simple strike or mechanical doubling. Both of these are common striking quality issues at the mint and while sometimes interesting, do not add numismatic value to coins. I suggest that you read and study the information available at doubleddie .com to help you understand how a doubled die happens vs strike doubling. Doubledie wbsite Also something to keep in mind, NGC does not authenticate every variety, some are too minor for them to do so. So before you send anything to NGC you must check to see if what you think you have will be attributed by NGC. You can check that by looking at the variety plus portion of the NGC site, if what you have is not listed there currently NGC will not authenticate it. NGC variety listings

It sounds to me that you are not understanding the service, you are paying the TPG to verify your work of identifying the variety, not to do the work of discovering the variety. If you think the turnaround times are long or the fees high now just think how long (and expensive) it would be if they had to spend hours on each coin looking at multiple references to see if the coin you have sent is or is not a variety.

From here, "does the mint inspect every single coin individually? No they don't. research it and you will find that they dont. it's a planchet error". You made this statement on your other thread, this is not phrased as an opinion or question but as a statement of fact. This does not make me upset, I'm always eager to learn from experts that know more than I do about how the mint operates and the minting process. Perhaps I misinterpreted your comment and you do not know as much as I assumed? Now you are correct that the mint does not inspect every coin before it leaves the mint, however even with the poor quality that the mint produces it does not send out damaged coins with obvious circulation wear. Why do you feel entitled to an explanation for these coins? Other than Mr. Lange who does work for NGC everyone else, including myself, are just volunteering our time and years of expertise in coins for free. We are not being paid to answer questions on this forum we just do it to be helpful and pay it forward, so spending hours typing out lengthy replies to obvious answers is a waste of our time. We see requests like yours several times a week if not daily, I can only speak for myself but I don't have that much free time on my hands. You asked about three coins, all of which are obviously damaged, and you got multiple replies that all agree with that opinion, nobody here has been in possession of any of those coins, including yourself, so there is no way that anyone here can say for certain how those three coins became damaged. There are an infinite number of ways to damage a coin while in circulation but only a handful of ways a coin is damaged at the time it is struck at the mint. We have all tried to help you but you have chosen to become combative and argue with everyone, when that happens you lose respect.

Welcome to the forum, as you are new to coins, and if you want to find actual true errors, then the very best thing you can do for yourself is to educate yourself on the minting process. When you know how coins are made it becomes easy to identify errors from simple damage. Doubbleddie .com has a nice section that explains how dies are made and multiple sections on various types of errors with nice reference photos. Doubleddie.com Also Error-Ref.com has lots of information on errors Error-Ref

Posting the same damaged coin in multiple sections of the forum is not going to yield a different result, it is just a damaged coin worth 25 cents to anyone that will take it. BTY as you are new to collecting but are a self-professed expert in striking errors why do you need any feedback here?

The reason nobody suggested a strike through is that is because the 1948-D wheat cent you posted is just damaged and not a strike through. But as you know more than anyone else I suggest that you submit your errors to NGC for authentication, that way you can throw some egg on our collective faces. Otherwise you're just taking up bandwidth spewing nonsense, it will be an expensive lesson that you obviously need.

Welcome to the forum, without seeing what you have it is impossible to provide you with any sort of meaningful feedback, the best anyone can do is direct you to the main NGC page where you can follow the steps to submit and see the costs. If these are all coins you found coin roll hunting, while possible, it is unlikely that you have anything that would be worth the cost to submit. On average it costs around $30 (a bit less for moderns and a bit more for older coins) per coin, so to be worth sending in you need the coins to have a value that exceeds the cost of submitting. My suggestion is that you take the three coins that like the best and that you think are valuable, read the post at the top of these section of the forum on how to post coin photos, and post them here for us to see and give you feedback on. Very few coins found in circulation are valuable enough to benefit from sending to a TPG, and in my experience most that are new to the hobby are not skilled enough to understand what is or is not valuable. There is a ton of misinformation on the web about the riches that can found in your pocket change.

No clue as I don't collect these, perhaps @JKK can help.

Having something to work on is a good thing in my mind, otherwise I would have to room the mean streets.

I only see common damage that happened to the coin while in circulation. In your last picture I am guessing that you are trying to show the circular ring just inside the rim of the coin. That is damage from a coin counting machine not any type of error and is fairly commonly mistaken as an error by many. As already mentioned I would be cautious of this "dealer" who gave you advice on this coin.

I stopped buying proof and mint sets (actually anything from the mint) about ten years ago. Partly because of all that bulk just sitting around, and now the prices are just stupid high and overpriced.

It could be a small die chip, impossible to say much from a photo that is so highly magnified. But even if it is a die chip it is so minor and insignificant that it adds no value to the coin's face value.

So much of how anyone answers your questions will be defined by what they collect. If I collected raw coins only, say large cents or ancients, or are buying very high grade examples, it could very well be a huge benefit to have a working relationship with a select few dealers. Partly to reduce the risk of buying a fake, because no matter how good you are with a coin type or series having someone to be a sounding board to confirm your thoughts is very valuable. And for those who only buy 18th and early 19th century coins working with a dealer or two can greatly enhance one's ability to get the "first crack" at new coins, perhaps even before they even come onto the market. And hopefully those dealers are able to spot well hidden cleanings and issues that you might not. But for collectors that predominantly buy only slabbed coins, twentieth century coins, and modern coins working with a specific dealer or two is not going to be all that important unless, again, the collector is looking to buy condition census material. I have no specific dealer or group of dealers that I work with currently, partly because I am not doing very much buying, but also because I'm not working on any series or collection that would require any special expertise. The only dealer I have ever contacted to help me find Lincolns for my set is Andy and his wife at Angel Dee's, they are specialists in Lincolns and Bufalos. Having heard good things about them I decided to make an effort to meet and discuss my wants with them at one of the LB shows in the mid twenty teens. The best part of working with Andy was that after talking to him at the LB shows, he knew what I wanted in terms of the quality and look that I was going for thus I was confident that if he sent me something (he did several times send me coins to review in person prior to payment) it would 99% of the time be what I would like. They were able to help me to locate (and in one case upgrading) 5 or 6 difficult mid twenties S mint coins that perhaps I would not have found otherwise. For now the few coins that I am buying I can find via auctions or occasionally via the two ebay sellers that I follow so there is no current need for me to work with or have a WTB list with any dealers.

Great grade results, congrats!!

Certainly different and unusual, thanks for sharing it.

If you use the old collectors society system (old registry system) to enter your coins it has the ability to record all the purchase and sale data and has areas for purchase and sale notes that is separate from the public description and can only be seen by the owner (and Perhaps by NGC I guess). That is how I enter any new coins to my inventory, I'm not aware of any way in the new registry system.

Looks like the tail of the G is still there, so in my opinion I would say no, I have no idea if that is what a TPG would say.

Hype and tripe, and a very poor choice of coins for the seller to use as his example. There will be nothing rare (other than a few condition rarities) with regard to the W quarters. Sure his comment is a half-truth in that many were degraded by the time they spent in circulation, and some will be lost to factors like those JKK noted. But the continued grade-flation practically guarantees that more high grade modern coins (including W quarters) will continue to be "made" in the future. I did not bother to check pops but I would assume that currently there are lots of MS67 W quarters already certified. Plus due to the hype and promotion on these quarters the bulk of the production has been saved, so I do think that rare is not a word that should ever be attached to these. As history has shown coins that were once thought to be rare can become common overnight, some Morgan dollars were thought to be scarce until bags and bags were discovered in bank vaults cutting prices in half or more. Hordes are found every now and then which can also change the perception and rarity of some dates. It is true that truly rare coins can become rarer as coins are lost to attrition or compromised by environmental elements, but I would consider those to be outlier events not the norm.