Coinbuf

Once we have some photos we can offer some opinions, can only guess otherwise.

This coin always makes me smile.

One of these days I'll have to get a nicer IHC for my type sets and show and tell, alas this will have to do.

Way better than average for sure.

Both very nice album coins, the 96 likely tops out at 64 with all the hits and minor scuffs. The 65 presents well but is an AU coin, I would put the retail value on both at around $.25 each.

This will be the best resource for error values that I know of. mint error news

In the past you have asked about many 1982 cents and the members here have been kind enough to share with you the resources and photos of both the small and large date coins so that you could make this call yourself. Did you look at the reference material that has already been provided several times? If you did review the info you've been provided then what do you think you have?

Cleaned and retoned.

There is no one size fits all formula for coin pricing, a low end (for the grade) poor eye appeal coin might sell for less than guide price while a suburb just miss the next grade up coin with knock out appeal or color may sell for twice guide. Without seeing the coin all we (or anyone) can do is guess and quote guides or recent auction data. Guide prices are usually somewhere around retail pricing, while recent auction data (from firms like Heritage or GC) will give you a better feel for a wholesale level pricing. I looking I found that in Jul 2022 an NGC AU50 coin was auctioned at Heritage for $3,024. And in Feb 2022 a PCGS AU55 was auctioned by Heritage and fetched $3,240. Again this is just raw data and I did not look at the coins in those two lots to determine if those coins were (imo) low or high end for the grade coins. It seems that you spent approx. $3,750 for your coin and using the above auction data it sounds to me as tho you paid full retail+ price. If the coin you bought is CAC approved or would be considered by experienced collectors and dealers as better than average for an AU53; then the price you paid would be more in line with current market prices, imo.

Plus its easier to find FS nickels in that date range, once you get into the 50's and 60's that becomes a very difficult and more expensive task.

I vote for 38 through 45.

That blue insert is hideous.

Welcome to the forum very sorry to hear of your fathers passing, first value is a function of condition and demand. Are the coins already graded by a top third part grading firm like NGC? If not then you will first have to determine the condition/grade of each coin before you can determine the value. Once you have figured out the grades you can use the explorer section of the NGC website Explorer link to learn more about each coin and see the NGC price guide as well as some recent auction results for each coin and grade. Guides are just that a guide, they may be high or low much of that depends on how much demand there is for a specific coin. As it seems that you wish to sell the coin you have some options, if the coins are all in a TPG holder you could consign them to an auction house. I would recommend Great Collections but there are several others. The reason I would suggest GC is they generally have the lowest fees, are very quick to get your coins auctioned off and also usually quicker to pay you after the auction than some of the other well known firms. A second option is to sell the coins yourself on a platform like ebay, there are fees for using a service like ebay but it might net you more than using an auction house. And ebay will be the best choice if the coins are not already in a TPG holder. A third option is to contact a coin dealer in your area (on the main NGC webpage is a list by geographical area) and have them give you an offer on the whole lot of coins. This will be by far the fastest way, but you will most likely get substantially less for the collection as the dealer will pay wholesale (or whatever he feels is the least he can). Knowledge is power, the more you know the better your chances of not being taken advantage of, especially if you chose to sell to a dealer. So do your homework and learn about what you have before you make any decisions or choices. If you have any questions about any of the coins you are welcome to post photos of them (read the post in the newbie section on how/what to post for feedback) and we'll do the best we can to help and answer your questions.

Very nice, love the set and it shows that you put a lot of time and effort into it!

Just part of ebay, has been for years.

When did you add it to your set? PCGS coins have to be verified before they are added to your available coins, then you can add to your set(s).

Welcome to the forum, I would suggest that you review the post at the top of this section on what and how to post coins. Hard to know just what you are looking for, value (the $4 on the 2X2 is full retail), grade (which cannot be determined from your single photo of one side), basic mintage info?? The NGC explorer portion of NGC's website has a lot of good information available for most coins Here is a link to that resource. Explorer We are happy to help but we need to know more about what it is you want to know.

Without seeing your set I cannot say for sure, one possible reason is if another registry member has photos and descriptions of each coin and you do not.

I'm just pointing out that the BU photo you posted could look very different under different conditions, the heavy shadows and lack of luster is not what I would consider original nor would it entice me to buy that coin from that photo. My sense is that the coin does not look that dark and dull in hand under proper lighting, glad that its working for you.

What makes you think that the BU coin you posted could not look blast white under different lighting? The three coins you have posted in this thread are all photos taken under different lighting/angle conditions, be careful of condemning or praising the condition of an uncirculated coin from a photo you did not take. The type of lighting and the angle of the light(s) can have a very big impact on how a photo looks.

Whizzed coins are a death sentence when it comes time to sell, you may as well take a wad of cash and light it on fire instead. Even if it takes you five years to save for a very low grade problem free example you will be ahead in the long run, patience is a very good thing in coin collecting. I too would buy a cleaned coin over a whizzed coin anytime.

Sound advice above, if you know nothing about coins or how they are made you will see many minor production defects and think you have hit the jackpot. The US mint is a high through put production facility with acceptable tolerances for production. Once you learn how coins are made and what is an error or not (use the link that @Oldhoopster provided) and save yourself (and us) a ton of grief. Also know in advance that the hype videos on you tube about how everyone has millions of dollars in valuable coins in their pockets is total garbage, just a hook to get clicks, if that were true we would all be on a beach somewhere instead of on here advising other folks. The red book is an essential tool for coin collectors, if you do not wish to buy one at first you can usually find one to check out at a public library.

I can only see one side of one coin and partial obverse images of two other coins. The two I can see the date on are final year wheat ear cents minted in Denver. Both look circulated and from what I can see of the one side of the full coin in your photo each is worth one cent, no numismatic premium for either coin. In the future please review the top post in this section titled "What you need to know about posting coins for inquiry". We need in focus, cropped photos of each coin both sides to be able to provide good information. Also I suggest that you get a copy of the red book if you have more questions on additional coins, it will have most of the information you are seeking. These can often be found and checked out of your local library if you do not wish to purchase one. You can also use the NGC explorer section of the NGC website to find much of the same data that is in the redbook, that is provided by for free by NGC.

No the crack is not an issue per se. The problem for me is that I do not know the series well enough to know if that die crack is correct for that year. Many times counterfeiters will use a reverse of another (wrong) year when creating their work. So the die cracks can help in identifying and verifying a correct year die marriage vs an incorrect one. But as I said I'm not experienced enough with this series to know the die marriages.

Do you have a question? I see no errors on the obv of either coin.