Coinbuf

Just an old school term, long ago collectors kept all their coins in coin cabinets. Thus when a collector would take a coin out of the cabinet to sell or trade it came from his cabinet. Even today I have seen some collectors that use coin cabinets, more so for raw unique types of collectables like love tokens and other items like that.

Just the value of the silver content.

I like the suggestion by RWB, you could hang onto one or two rolls to pass down to family members . A family legacy as it were.

Good luck on the search Ray, hope you find some nice coins. This is the coin I use for my avatar pic on the PCGS forum.

Do you have any idea what real die doubling even looks like? I ask because if you continue to ask about coins that have no reason to even ask about folks are going to start ignoring your questions. If you want to find something you need to learn what to look for before you start to look not after.

Skip any high magnification device, you will be chasing imaginary DDO's, DDR's, and every other thing under the sky. If you cannot see it with a 7X loop or the human eye it simply is just to minor to bother with. My go to saying is: everything looks like something at the micron level.

Large Edited to add: And in the future please help us to help you by following the posting rules. Always post full photos of both sides of every coin, there are other ways to tell the 70-S small vs large date then just the date. And for god's sake have the image oriented correctly so we don't have to stand on our heads to view the images.

I see nothing out of the ordinary.

The OP was having issues loading pics on the PCGS forum so I helped him out. One of the error dealers on that forum confirmed the grease filled area and believes the zero to be a dropped numeral error.

Been a bit since I added anything. I have never paid for a PCGS TV photo but a few of my coins have one available.

From these photos the coin looks possibly cleaned and for sure it has seen some time in circulation and cannot grade higher than AU. I also think the color looks questionable, my best guess is AU details as @Mohawk also noted.

Looks fried, but for what it is worth ASE's are pure silver and do tone in different ways than say a Morgan dollar.

For most of the 1960's the mint quality was very poor, this coin displays a better than average obverse strike (we cannot comment on the reverse as you did not post it) for the date. It does show some lite circulation and a few marks/stains on this side, so while not a coin that would be worth submitting for grading it is a very respectable coin to put an album.

Welcome to the forum and the hobby. I will start by echoing what many here and on the PCGS forum have said. 1) Starting out by buying a ton of "stuff" seems fun and in some ways it can be. There is a bit of magic in searching thru a lot of coins and filling folders, many older coin collectors started out that way. But what we found was that at some point we wanted to specialize and then we had to dump all that "stuff" (usually for very little money) and start again. I will not discourage you from doing some of that but I would encourage you to not go overboard. 2) Keep an eye out in the local paper or media for estate sales, this is one of the best places to find random lots of coins. Do take care as many do not know what they have and may be asking far more than the coins are worth. 3) Get a redbook, the pricing will be out of date very quickly but it will give you an idea of what dates and mintmarks are worth more than the very common ones and allow you to see if the coins you are looking to buy are reasonably price or not. 4) My last and in my opinion the most important point is to take your time and have fun, this is a hobby so enjoy it.

Yes that is a die clash, very common on much of the coinage from that time.

Sorry that I cannot help, I don't have any of the NGC slab boxes at all. It does stand to reason that NGC might have redesigned the boxes to fit the newer slabs.

Horribly polished coin with a die chip not a cud, worth exactly $.01.

And yet poor quality crudely made counterfeits continue to sell everyday putting real money into the pockets of those counterfeiters and those who profit from their wares.

First welcome to the forum. There is very little we can do or help to guide you with such limited information or at the very least some quality photos of the coins you plan to submit. For example are you wanting to sell these or are they for your personal collection? Your comment "if the coin aint even worth" suggest that you may not have the expertise to identify or grade coins in the upper MS ranges. In which case you would very likely be wasting your time and money on submitting these. Lincoln cents of that timeframe would need to grade at least MS67 to break even and MS68 or better to make a profit after submission costs (assuming that your goal is to sell). If your just wanting to test your grading skills I suggest that you pick one or two that (to your eye) are the best of all that you have saved and submit just those. Best of luck with whatever path you choose.

One interesting note, I can see my sig line banners on my PC but not when I view the website on my phone. I have no idea why that is.

Perhaps if you would be so kind as to explain what an NGC certificate is (at least what that means to you) we may be able to answer your question.

The control panel is under the old system, the current software does not allow to add sig lines currently. You will see a few like myself that have been here for some time that have sig lines that are left over from that old part of the system.

You have too much time on your hands. Of course by my reply so do I.

Belt sander, grinder, caught in some type of moving mechanism; any number of things could have been used to do that either intentionally or not.