Just Bob

Buying a Redbook is a good first step when starting out collecting US coins. The prices in there should mostly be  used as a guide in comparing one coin or series to another. As far as the actual price that you may pay, I have found the Redbook to be high in some instances, low in others. 

A good second step: be patient.  Learn as much as possible about the coins you want to collect. Being an informed collector will help you make wise purchases.

Welcome to the forum.

A couple of questions: 

Is it magnetic all over, or just in certain spots?

Are you using a powerful rare earth magnet?

That looks like damage. I don't think that a clipped planchet would have prevented the rim from striking up.

2 hours ago, wking994 said:

Just some info on grading standards between the two grading companies. 3 months ago I did a grading test with NGC. I cracked 6 different year Morgans all MS65 from PCGS..  2 were brand new slabs graded at the end of last year. 3 were graded almost 3 years ago, and one in an old green holder. 5 came back MS64 one came back MS63+..........

What were the coins? - if you don't mind me asking.

On 4/11/2019 at 5:03 PM, Sean Reilly13 said:

...And I have been at this since I placed my GSA CC Bid form in the mail ...

Are you saying that there was a mail bid sale, and that lots were awarded to the highest bidder? I guess I never really thought about it, but I just assumed that they said,"Hey we found some silver dollars. Anybody want to buy some?"

Welcome to The Forum. Conder101 nailed it.

And now, with years more experience under your belt, you probably would not have to give it, or one like it, a second glance to know it was fake. I hope that lesson was not a costly one.

Keep us informed, please. I would love for this to turn out to be something special.

Just to be clear, since your post mentioned both dates, is your coin a 1942, or 1943?

I am honestly not sure where to look. Before I posted last night, I also checked Coppercoins.com and Variety Vista, and performed a quick internet search. I came up with nothing from those three attempts also.

Roger Burdette is a member of this forum, and pops in from time to time. He is a friendly guy, and probably would not mind if you sent him a PM. He goes by RWB on here. David Lange is Research Director for NGC. You might also try PMing him, as well.

My copy of Judd is a ninth edition (2005), so this info may be out of date: While there are numerous off-metal and non-metal pieces listed for 1942, there are none showing for 1943. The Redbook only lists two 1943 off-metal issues - bronze and silver- both as errors. Error-ref does not list a pewter 1943 cent. NGC Variety Plus lists nothing, as well. Given all of this information, or lack thereof, until it is authenticated by a recognized third party service, I am calling it a modern counterfeit. I hope, for your sake, that I have it wrong, and you have a one-in-a-million coin.

If it were mine, I would probably leave it as is, but that is just the way I am. If I were a bit more OCD, (or less lazy), I think I would try to match the toning on all of the coins as much as possible. That would be the nicer looking choice, in my opinion. 

5 hours ago, Zulkiffli said:

Hi, Im newbie. 

Can anyone help me to verify this 1795 Brass Draped Bust Dollar.  Tq

 

Welcome to the forum. It is a fake, and a badly scratched one.

Not the worst that I have seen, but it still appears to be a fake.

4 hours ago, joydeep said:

How true is it that sometimes die cracks add to the value of a coin ? Are they of any significance ? 

It depends on the coin and the potential buyer. Someone like me, who thinks that they add character to the coin, might be willing to pay more for one, especially one with multiple cracks.  Other collectors only like pristine coins, so will shy away from those with die cracks or other "problems." In some cases, a die crack may actually cause a coin to sell for less. For example,  in a case where most of the known examples of a given coin are from a cracked die, a piece without cracks may bring more money than one with.

19 minutes ago, JKK said:

In any case, if a week passes and someone has no answers, I don't think it's unreasonable to bump the thread with a second post.

That is not a bad idea, at least in my case. Sometimes, I will read a post and not be near my reference books, or not have time to research an answer right then. I move on to the next post, fully intending to come back and try to find some information for the poster, but then a day or two goes by, and I will forget all about it. A gentle reminder would get me back on track.

2 minutes ago, JKK said:

Agreed. Does not look right at all. The wing feathers are a very dramatic tell on this one relative to the real thing.

This reverse die has a familiar look, as if I have seen it, or a similar one, on other counterfeits.

Welcome to the forum 

Your coin, unfortunately, is a fake. 

2 hours ago, Buffalo Head said:

Here’s a fire Buff.  This one made it through the whole town burning to the ground.

Thanks for looking, Joe

The pictures and stories here and ATS are amazing.

Were there any coins that were not able to be salvaged? I seem to recall you saying that there were a few moderns that did not make it.

Welcome to the forum.

It appears that it has a small die chip on each end of Monticello, and the missing detail on the top left of the window to the right of the right column could be a filled die, or might just be a hit on the surface. The same with the missing detail just to the bottom right of that same window. The spot at the top of the portico, above the second column from the left, looks like a contact mark, as do the marks on "I" and "V" in the word "FIVE." (and a few other places).

The die chips and filled die (if that is what it is) are considered errors, but those do not look significant enough to garner much premium. It is a nice looking Jefferson, though, and if I found it in circulation, I would certainly keep it as an interesting piece.

7 hours ago, notshyross said:

- if there are only 600 examples known who is going to quibble about an XF Details Cleaned?

A) Collectors/ investors with the resources to buy only the very finest examples. 

B) Collectors who only buy top grade pieces for registry sets or just for the satisfaction / prestige of having condition census or finest known coins. 

C) Collectors of Conder tokens, Bust Halves by Overton numbers, or any other series in which the number of known examples is relatively small. 

I understand your conclusion, but you have to remember that, for many series, 600 pieces extant would be a huge hoard.

Former member Supertooth was in charge of the WYNK threads at one time, but he is no longer with us. PM-ing an admin is probably your best bet to get it stuck.

5 hours ago, KarenHolcomb said:

 Are tokens pretty high dollar or reasonable? 

 

That depends on the token. A search on ebay will show you that Conder tokens usually go for anywhere from $75 to over $700, on average. The really rare ones go for upwards of $1000. I only own a few circulated examples, but I find them fascinating, look at examples of them daily, and I always have one or two on my watch list.

There are many other types of tokens, both foreign and US, and the methods of collecting them are as varied as your imagination. You could, for example collect transportation tokens, (some of which can be had for a dollar or two - same with tax tokens), tokens issued by coal or lumber companies, tokens from one country, state, or city, tokens picturing animals, certain people, buildings, etc. You could collect Civil War, Hard Times, US Merchant, or any of the other types listed in the Russel Rulau token book. The possibilities are almost endless, and the cost can be affordable to most any budget.

My collection is mostly made up of tokens, medals, doubloons, and other exonumia from my home state of Mississippi. These range in price from a few dollars to several hundred. As with most things, prices fluctuate due to supply and demand.The supply (and thus pricing) was once determined mostly by consulting the only book on Mississippi tokens, by G Chatham. A number of hoards, new discoveries of previously unknown pieces, and re-attribution of some pieces have skewed the numbers somewhat, and there is a website that is trying to build an up-to-date database of not just Mississippi tokens, but tokens from ALL states.The demand side is what currently determines most pricing now, and that varies considerably, depending on who is buying at any given time, and who needs which token for their collection. At different times over the years there have been collectors with pretty deep pockets in the hunt, and I have had to sit on the sidelines and watch as prices went out of my reach, but right now, they are reasonable, for the most part, and I was able to add over 50 new pieces last year.

If you go to Ebay and search "tokens," you will find all sorts of examples, ranging from one cent to thousands of dollars. One thing, though: token companies made, and still make lots of generic tokens for parking, amusement, restrooms, etc. These may have a picture of a car, an eagle, "for amusement only," or some other generic symbol. While they are perfectly fine to add to any collection, and can usually be had for pennies a piece, they can't really be categorized by location or date, and are not my cup of tea.

Here is a link to the website I mentioned

And now we have successfully hijacked JKK's thread.

1 hour ago, numisport said:

Get them out and play with them !