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Just Bob

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Posts posted by Just Bob

  1. When grading a coin, both sides are taken into consideration. But since you only posted the obverse, I will make an observation based on that. It looks like it has seen some circulation, but may be uncirculated - the picture is too blurry to say for sure - but if so, it is a lower mint state, due to the numerous dings and hits on the surface.

  2. Welcome to the forum.

    Just to elaborate a bit on what Greenstang wrote: sometimes a foreign substance (we generally lump everything under the title of "grease") will partly or completely fill the recesses in the die - recesses which would produce letters, numerals, or part of the design on the coin. The grease prevents metal form flowing into the recess when the coin is struck, so it appears that the letter is missing, as in the case of your coin. Cool find (thumbsu

  3. I have to admit, I really was hoping to see a D mint mark on the reverse, for your sake. That would have meant a 12-fold or so increase in the value of your coin. The good news, though, is that since your coin is not the rare 1911D, it is probably less likely to be a fake.

    Since the best any of us on here can do is give an opinion, and so far, no one has stated that they think it is fake, I think your next step should be to find a reputable coin dealer in your area, and have it looked at in person and weighed. Greenstang gave you the proper weight above, so if it varies from that more than the accepted tolerance, you will have your answer.

    Good luck, and let us know the results, should you decide to weigh it.

  4. 37 minutes ago, Mohawk said:

    I'm so glad you guys have got this one.....I suck at Indian $2.5's and $5's.  That's another thing that I never collected and that my old boss liked, so I never got much experience with them at the shop as he did all of that. 

    When it comes to Mint State Indians, I don't even try to grade from pictures. The texture throws me off too much.

    I have to admit though, I really like the design - obverse and reverse - and the proof versions are really special, in my opinion. They are some of my dreams coins. Unfortunately, they are WAY out of my price range.

  5. This is one of those weird situations in which I replied to this post hours ago, and then either forgot to send, or I did send, and my words were eaten by the Web Monster.

    Either way, I will re-post:

    Welcome to the forum,Cat.

    I don't see anything that jumps out at me and yells,"fake." but a picture of the reverse should certainly help us. And, as Greenstang requested, if you can get the weight in grams, that would be a big plus.

  6. As usual, these guys are correct. I will just add this: while it is not impossible for a coin to have both damage and a genuine mint error (or be a variety), in most cases, if a coin has obvious damage to one part, then what appears to be an error on another part will be a result of that damage. In other words, if your coin has been run over in a parking lot, those probably aren't extra numbers or letters that you see. They are just damage that resembles something familiar.

    And "Happy 4th" back at you, R420.

  7. 22 hours ago, Mohawk said:

     It's also interesting to hear about the durability of tokens regarding the cleaning methods being discussed. 

    I don't want to leave any chance for misconception here, so let me add a few sentences for clarity. The tokens are not any less susceptible to hairlines than a coin of the same composition - as far as I know. The difference is that (at least some) token collectors are more forgiving of defects and issues, since many tokens are considered scarce to rare, or even unique, and it often comes down to a choice between owning a problem example, or none at all. Since I collect solely for the enjoyment of it, and have no plans to ever profit from my collection, I am one of those who is willing to accept some problems, whether pitting from corrosion, or microscopic hairlines from rubbing with a q-tip, just to be able to include an example in my collection. It is like the Bronze Disease link posted by JKK. You would never use a "stiff brush" or a "sharp needle" on a BU Morgan, but on a crusty Ancient, it is acceptable.

  8. 19 minutes ago, Dukemnm said:

    I'm trying to stay neutral but....

    Lets play a little since it is early here and I am excited. :D

    Found a 1982 D Double die on the two and on the mint mark. ^^

    Well maybe not a true double die not sure but thoughts are welcomed. I night start a new thread if Ya'll want. 

     

     

    IMG_20190702_211926.thumb.jpg.dcceed03cf89a064026cec9abb656e02.jpg

     

     

    No, sorry, not a doubled die. That is strike doubllng.

  9. 19 hours ago, jgrinz said:

    Please saY WITH THAT PICTURE TOO pLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ... OOPS dam cap button 

    I would definitely use that picture.In fact, I am thinking of stealing it, and replacing my current avatar. ;)

     

    Do you still have Fred the turtle? I could use a picture of him,and maybe a couple more critters, and rotate the pics on a regular basis. :)

     

  10. 12 hours ago, Mohawk said:

    Those are excellent tips for using olive oil, Bob!  And it's interesting to know that about copper coins if they soak in olive oil for a long time.....most of my experience with olive oil has been with silver coins, with a few zinc and clad coins as well.  I've done copper coins also, but only for a few days.....that's all they needed to remove the crudulation.  I'm glad that you knew this to share on here.......this is what I love about this place and the members.....I've been doing coins for 20 years this year and I still learn new things here all the time!  Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.

    Just for informational purposes, here is a link to a token conservation thread that I posted years ago, with before and after pictures. The problem with most of the tokens that I collect is similar to the problems faced by an Ancients collector: most of them are dug from the ground or found in an old building or some other location that is not always conducive to preservation. Unless the finder cleaned them before offering them for sale, many have some dirt at the very least, and, at worst, may have active corrosion. Fortunately, tokens can take a lot of abuse from cleaning methods that should never be used on an uncirculated (or nice circulated) coin.

    Link to thread here

  11. 1 hour ago, Mokiechan said:

    I have pocket change that accidently stays in my pocket through a wash cycle and come out absolutely dazzling with brightness. Of course that's dangerous for a valuable coin as there probably lots of hairlines caused by the agitation, etc.   I'm going to experiment with a dirty but relatively valueless coin and see if placing the coin in the laundry, protected from too much agitation, maybe gentle cycle.  What will it look like at the end of the washing?  I will place it in a pants pocket to further reduce its movement.  I have a very ugly, very common, very bullion value only Peace Dollar, just right for this experiment.

    I have a few Lincoln cents that I accidentally washed that way. Completely unnatural looking, but, boy, are they pretty!