Just Bob

I don't want to come across as harsh or preachy, but this could have been easily avoided. I hope you didn't pay much for that coin, because a quick glance at a Redbook would have been all that was needed to let you know that this coin is fake. If you don't own one, I suggest buying one before you purchase any more coins.

Welcome to the forum, JB.

The close-ups are sort of blurry, but, looking at the picture of the whole obverse, I don't think it is the DDO-003.

Here is a picture from Variety Vista, as well as some pictures of a die marker - some die scratches (which will be raised lines) above and below LIBERTY.

I knew I had seen that design somewhere. Those reproductions are available on Amazon by the bag.

https://www.amazon.com/Widows-Coins-Reproduction-Antique-Bronze/dp/B00NVOFJ44/ref=asc_df_B00NVOFJ44/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174221180&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1937221599352088059&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014003&hvtargid=pla-568267009662&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=66160243910&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174221180&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1937221599352088059&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014003&hvtargid=pla-568267009662

The round container that held those dollar coins is not from a grading company. It is from a large company (Littleton) that sells coins. They buy bags and boxes of coins, and package them to sell to collectors. There is no guarantee that the grades are accurate, since they are the opinion of a seller, and not a third party grader.

Evidently, original Carson City bags are in demand. The one I saw had 9 bids, by 7 different bidders, and was at $403, with 8 days to go.

Have fun.

2 hours ago, R420coins said:

So I'm asking now are my 1982 d small zinc or large zinc.

If you are referring to the pictures in this thread, the top three are small dates, and the bottom two are large dates.

Not sure why the Philippines 25 Centavo is in this thread, but I do like that obverse design. It looks like the "8 smoke rings" variety. Not scarce, but a nice design, in my opinion.

It's really weird how I post things or edit posts, and it never appears in the thread.

Anyway, I edited my earlier post (and it somehow disappeared) to add that if the half dime is in fact a New Orleans mint coin, it is a slightly better date, and should be worth maybe $10, given the rough shape of the coin.

23 minutes ago, JKK said:

The half dime is date-indistinct to me, though someone more familiar with seated coinage can surely deduce it.

The half dime is an 1853, and it appears to have an "O" mint mark on the reverse.

28 minutes ago, Render222 said:

I no this may sound dumb ..but were do ya get the flips for submitting coins????

Try a local hobby shop or Books-A-Million, or you can order from Wizard Coin Supply by clicking here:  https://www.wizardcoinsupply.com/plastic-coin-flips/

There were officially two styles/sizes of numerals used in 1982, but die wear, hub wear, slight movement of the die and/or planchet, variances in striking pressure and space between the dies, wear/damage on the coin, and environmental factors can all play a part in the appearance of the numbers on a coin.

As for your dollar coins, it is impossible to guess a grade from those pictures. We would need closer, clearer pictures of both the obverse and the reverse.

You have to remember that, at that time,  the mint was still punching the mint marks into the working die by hand. The position and orientation can vary a bit from die to die. I don't think that one is off enough for NGC to label it an error.

NGC is also stricter when it comes to Full Bell Lines on Franklin halves. They require both the upper and the lower lines to be full, whereas PCGS only requires it of the lower. I like that about NGC.

Just for the sake of clarity: NGC not only requires the horizontal bands to be split, but also, the vertical torch lines must be " defined without major interruptions."

They will also give this designation to circulated coins.

I am not sure what PCGS's requirements are.

1 hour ago, R420coins said:

Gm to all ,an to all have a good day:-) .listen sir.I wasn't trying to be rude or anything in that nature.yet! It's a very hard coin hobby or whatever.because the past hasn't caught up with newer vision of collecting coins.So if I have 1983 d copper penny.Rare! However! Because of the damage,it's only face value.still I hold on to it hoping that the grading of getting into a slab will change:) .yet! Who would mess up a 1983 copper penny that don't exist lol.So they PMD..I do find that odd.that you can even see the letters and numbers on the rim! As if the coin was to small,which in turn cause a die break because the coin couldn't hold all it's contents.Well even on the reverse side.you will see the die break between the building.as most times,to me it's crazy.because it's clearly noticeable.that it was done at their.yet! To avoid the B.S THE MINT and some collectors.have rules and specs.to keep the peace between the enjoyment of collecting and the running of the Mint of quality coins ;).that's just my own opinion!!

What makes you think that this is a 1983?

My apologies to the OP for the hijacking.

If I read you correctly,  it is not raised, like the letters on the coin, but is in incused. I assume that is what you meant by the term, "impression." If it is an impression, then it is damage, and did not happen at the mint.

Welcome to the forum.

It looks like you have a stain that resembles a "s." The fact that it is right next to a "D" mint mark, and is roughly the same size, makes it  look more like an "s" than it would appear if it were sitting by itself on a different part of the coin.

1 hour ago, Tridmn said:

Reverse of LMC?

He is referring to the first picture: the reverse of the Lincoln Memorial Cent.

19 hours ago, Josh07 said:

Hey Guys, I am Eleven yrs old and my stepfather got me into coin-collecting. I just was wanting to ask some questions on like how to start, and what I can do to see how I can be better. Yeah I'm a noob!

Welcome to the forum.

A few words of advice:

There is a saying in this hobby: "Buy the book before the coin." It means that, before you start spending money on coins, you should gain as much knowledge as possible about what you intend to buy. That is not always easy to do, especially when you see Youtube videos telling you that there are coins out there just waiting for you to find and become rich. Trust me - taking your time and learning as much as possible will save you time, money, and heartache, in the long run.

Since I mentioned Youtube, let me also add that Youtube is not a good place to learn about coins. Yes, there are some very educational videos on there, but there are also many that are put there just to get views, and those are often filled with confusing, misleading, or incorrect information.

There is a good thread in the What You Need to Know section of this forum that deals with inherited collections, but it is also good if you are just starting out. I highly recommend that you, and Emicoins, and anyone else just getting into numismatics take some time and look it over, along with some of the other WYNK threads.

Click here for a link to the thread.

If you have questions about particular coins, or just coin collecting in general, feel free to ask.

If it's legal tender, then technically, it is a coin, although it looks more like a medal. Either way, I like it.

I'm tempted to buy one. Do you have a link to the website?

Welcome to the forum.

What you have appears to be mechanical doubling, which is not actually a doubled die. It looks cool, but is not considered to be worth a premium, since it is common.

Take a look at this article by our hosts, which gives info about the difference between these to types of doubling:

Click here for the article

According to a Mike Diamond article in Coin World, " . In an off-center strike, some of the peripheral design is cut off at the edge of the coin on at least one face. In an uncentered broadstrike, the design is complete on both faces. Although it’s technically part of the design, the design rim itself is not taken into account when determining whether a poorly centered strike is an off-center strike or an uncentered broadstrike."

Judging by this description,your coin is an off-center strike, since part of the lettering is missing.

Coin Quest gives a value of $6 for a circulated.10 percent off-center strike. Obviously, that is just a guideline, and,like most collectibles, any given coin is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it.

Greenstang beat me to the answer

Welcome to the forum.

What you have is not a mint error. It looks like something that someone did while  playing around in a metal shop, or some other type of post-mint damage. It is worth face value only.

17 hours ago, Mike's Currency said:

Who is this Conder101 that changed the tolerance from 0.13 to 0.4? You know this reminds me of similar situations I have seen before. Discredit something long enough while hoarding it and then one day present evidence to the contrary and cash in on it. Sometimes even a generation later. Something is not right here!

Aside from having a cent that you think should have been classified as an error, and was not, I'm not sure what the particular problem that you are having is, but that response was completely unnecessary, in my opinion.

1 hour ago, Mike's Currency said:

According to a " Conder101 " in this "Coin Talk" link https://www.cointalk.com/threads/one-more-time-1983-d-lmc-weighs-2-74-g.334740/

a Whopping .4 gram is the tolerance before a 3.11 gram Lincoln cent is an error. That is a HUGE difference from tolerance of .13 grams Just Bob mentioned. Where did you get that .13 from Just Bob?

I

That figure was from a list of specs for all US coins printed in the Coin World Almanac, Eighth Edition, 2011. It was emailed to me by the very same Conder101.