Any thing you found in change purchased or otherwise obtained. 2 2

[Mr.Bill347]

On 11/14/2022 at 7:18 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

I agree he could have gotten a better coin but he aims for under 50 dollars only this time he forgot to look at the reverse image. It's hard to find good coins online and that's mostly where he shops from a guy called Morgan Dealer it's a shop on ebay. I still shop online to but I go to Continental coins online shop. The shop sells some good coins at decent prices. Here's a pick of a coin that I bought for an ex-girl friend from continental coins it's a 1909 s vdb I bought it for her because we split up due to long distance relation ships never working out and I wanted her to have something special in her and her grandsons coin collection.

A nice parting gift for sure! If you would like to get me one I would be incredibly thankful!

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/4/2023 at 1:30 PM, Mr.Bill347 said:

A nice parting gift for sure! If you would like to get me one I would be incredibly thankful!

How can I get it to you I'd do it for free to a fellow coin friend!

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/4/2023 at 5:55 AM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

@pigeonman333rd  I guess my point is that it does not take too many cleaned, damaged, or fake coins to put your whole collection underwater.  I am not saying that this should be in investment, because I do this for fun.  However, I try not to make too many costly mistakes, because I want to get the most coins for the most competitive price.  From my reading, you are dropping some money into this hobby, so I wanted to chime-in and make sure you are not saddled with a mountain of coins that you cannot sell.

However, it sounds like you are already in tune with selling coins, and this is a nuance I missed.  If you have found a strong market for the coins you are buying, you can (and should) throw all my advice out the window.  This is your hobby, and you can (and should) collect however you wish.  My intent was merely to try to help a new collector from consistently buying fake/details coins to avoid the disappointment the awaits in the future.

If you are looking for a "coin buddy", I am always happy to make a coin buddy.  I am newer, but I have learned a lot since I started.  I am still no where near the level of some of the guys on the forum, but I am happy to help and join in the fellowship wherever I can.

Pleased to meet you!

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/6/2023 at 5:22 AM, pigeonman333rd said:

Pleased to meet you!

So lets talk about my cleaned and damaged coins! Some times cleaned or damaged coins are from dealers as free gifts to get you back to buy more heavily hoarded items such as rolls collected in the 1960's and 1970's back when teen wheat pennies were able to be found in change easily like 1940's and 1950's in extra fine forty were able to be hoarded in large quantities in the 1990's. Here's an example of a free coin worth five cent that was given to me recently now I believe it's buffed and polished because the shine. It's a 1944 P war nickel. The second pick is of a roll of nickels I found while looking for g4 cents to fill my penny book because I have a lot of dates in the hoard room. I cherry picked a purchased set for all the very fine-extra fine coins and in exchange threw in some semi key dates like 1922-d,1924s,1924-d you know over hoarded not incredibly rare but scarce amongst change coins.  Another thing I found in the hoard was a bag of 2000 on up Canadian Quarters left overs from gambling at the casino in Canada all commemoratives. I'm planning one doing a roll hunt of 450.00 worth of pennies nickels and dimes a small amount compared to guys online that video tape their roll hunts I don't do that because I figure it's bad for business if you plan on marketing what you find. I got to be careful though taking out like a thousand dollars and putting it back into a different account that might bring the tax man to my door thinking I'm getting more income than I actually am because I'm taking out a thousand and putting it into a separate account. Good luck to all in your ventures whether you save your hard earned cash to buy one expensive high end coin or you roll hunt like the Pigeonman God Bless You and I Wish You Good Luck and Safe Travels!     

[J P M]

The photo of the 44 is to out of focus to tell if it has been polished . Even so it is nice enough for a book.

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/9/2023 at 5:33 AM, J P M said:

The photo of the 44 is to out of focus to tell if it has been polished . Even so it is nice enough for a book.

Thanks I plan to keep it in a case it's been kept by an old silver collector who polished all her silver so I will look for more polished ones to complete a polished set. I did find a 1943 P and a 1943 s in the roll to put in my book but no 1958-d yet. I know cleaning a coin is a sin in numismatist land however unearthing my 1924's from my hoard of pennies I had to treat one with CLP like I do for all my steel cents kept in rolls if I suspect rust. I have a four year window to complete my taskings on this coin which is to preserve the heavily corroded coin. Every six months I will apply 1 drop of CLP to the obverse because the obverse is heavily corroded from being in the roll. After six months the coin gets put into are sonic cleaner with tonic water with quinine which has all the carbonation removed. This process is improper cleaning however it is non evasive. I will repeat the process over for years time. Here is a picture of one coin receiving its CLP on the left a 1924-d in fine or better corrosion detail it's black with raised corrosion bubbles in the fields but it has three and a half more years to go before it gets it's improper cleaning through sonic treatment. The coin to the right is a 1909 vdb my first 1909 vdb its an improperly cleaned coin with CLP for about 5 years and sonic cleaned once to remove the CLP however this coin was so green I kind of liked it that way but I was going to lose the coin so I cleaned it that's the only time I use this process and these coins are now personal to me because I had to do the work so I don't sell stuff like this I label them improperly cleaned corrosion detail to not confuse people who look at the coin. So what do you guys think bad deal bunch of nonsense or good job?     

[pigeonman333rd]

I got to check my hoard and smarten up guys I was looking for a 1927-d cent in extra fine 40 in one of my hoard of wheat penny boxes and I found a roll labeled 1922-1924 and I found half a page of 1922-d cents and half a page of 1924-d cents minus two slots. Another thing that I expedited out of the hoard and into my set was a quarter roll one page plus five slots worth of 1915-d cents one vf20 conservatively graded extra fine obverse with a very fine or f12 reverse it has full wheat stalks but most were G4 five or six F12's. The thing is I just bought 2 rolls of 1927-d cents  for 34.99 free shipping and only got vf20's no au or extra fine coins not realizing I had 10 plus rolls of the same date but only one extra fine roll so I failed at getting the best price per roll which is usually .2 cents a piece one dollar a roll mixed mystery roll 10.00 a roll for teens mixed P/D/S and only extra fine 40 and above 1920's and 1930's. I did find 2 1909's in case boxes to take out of my hoard I paid five bucks a piece for back in the day that are worth $3.00 a piece today ouch. So I got alot of remorse for spending on stuff I will never make my 200 or 300 dollars I paid for all this stuff years ago. I really got alot of 1927-d bags of bags full of them mostly in f12 condition you know you can see full wheat stalks Lincolns hair full but beard has less hair eye is full and bright nose is still present all letters and numbers fully visible low to no corrosion. Here's a pic of what rolls I am sorting out from 1995 when I worked for $5.00 an hour as a kid for my family members to earn the $200.00 to buy out the antique dealer none are unc coins so it will take a lifetime to recover the debt. For example that box cost me 40 hours of work putting in docks dragging bricks and wheeling cement around that's hard labor. So now a day equivalent for construction work is 40.00 per hour so 8 hours times 40 is 320.00 plus five cents a page plus 1 dollar per page plus shipping. This has to happen for me to consider my box to be free. I honestly would rather just suffer the loss and just keep the hoard for retirement. And invest more money into cases plastic ones for unc coins and .5 cent cases with pages for vf20 and above cents no matter the value and the rest put into rolls. Sorry about the bad pictures all I got is the phone till I can afford a new sd card mine got wet in the flood of my room. I'm doing quite well rolling 1910-1919 p/d/s cents in G4's thats what the major portion of 10 rolls that was topping the box in the image were full of at 7 dollars a roll but no key dates darn it. I did get quite a few fines extra fines with full beard hairs and full wheat stalks and very fines which are the cases stacked in the back of the second image behind the teen rolls. The worst part is I have about 1300 of debt in certified ms coins that are scary to me what if some one breaks into the safe ouch. Certified might be fore most but I just do it to have something to show in the registry. I plan to trade and up grade no selling as the Antique man said your young you should be accumulating. The good thing is I'm dealing with my hoarding issues one box at a time the oldest purchases first getting some cased some rerolled and so forth.     

[pigeonman333rd]

What your looking at is my rolls of teens p/d/s mint marks not all of them and half full like for rolls when to cases for my cased hoard of teens vf20 plus so I got a full roll of 1917's and a quarter two a half roll of the teens. The second images my page of 1922-d's and 1924d's about a half page each and a page plus 5 1915-d's and a few pages of teens not gradable different grade obverse from reverse but I like an F12-extrafine reverses over any great obverse coin with a G4 reverse I just stick those in penny books rather then roll or case them. Oh and I cherry picked the set I bought for anything over F12 in the teens in the set leaving the G4's and replacing some of them and adding one 1922-d one 1924-d and one 1924-s all G4's. I plan to finish the set all 1920's-1930's except 1931-s in G4 but most of mine are to high of a grade for a penny book. I did leave the 1940's and 1950's in fine to extra-fine detail coins and do plan to replace the 1950's and 1944-d with unc coins and all the 1960's and 1970's with unc coins to start some collector on the cheap like 200 bucks. Keep in mind no 1909's no 1914-d no 1931-s but the rest that I have to spare all full but a friend from college or something I would proffer a trade for something of equal or lesser value being like 200-500 dollar value which is hard to do but I've seen some pretty impressive stuff from those starving college kids they trade stuff for energy drinks and bags of candy absolutely crazy. Wish me Luck!

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

I am glad you are really enjoying the hobby .

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/9/2023 at 6:02 PM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

I am glad you are really enjoying the hobby .

It's enjoyable and cheap much less then my pigeon hobby we started raising good birds in 1995 and paid $4,000 for two pairs from the number one breeder in the nation but they were all infertile birds never raised a single squab, so you can see why I'm hesitant to pay top dollar for top quality rare coins! Coins don't raise you more coins that you can sell to feed your coin hobby. My birds are the worst they have ever been in quality due to lack of sunlight in Coos Bay so it's really put a damper on raising any. I raised 2 last year and in Vermont I raised anywhere from 20-50 birds a year. To be honest with you I would rather raise some kid's! 

[pigeonman333rd]

Spoiler

 

I found my receipt for my copper satin cents while cleaning and I thought I bought 4000 coins I was wrong sorry for lying. The number was 400, the packs I bought was 8 packs of 10 sets or 640 coins which family only got 6 packs so that's 480 coins. My guess is I was so excited to have large quantities that I thought it was 4000 I was wrong and I apologize. I recently bought 200 and have no intention of selling just hoarding and starting a new collector or two. My new estimate of how many is here is 400+200+80+80= 760 coins far less than 4000.The total amount I have had in my life and not at one time is 1240. Currently only 760 coins and growing as long as I can get a good deal the latest 200 cost me 1.67 a piece.  

[pigeonman333rd]

Today was a Great day for the Pigeonman333rd Hoarder extraordinaire! I started a new young collector collecting and I wish her and her family well Thank God and Prays Jesus Christ Amen. 

[pigeonman333rd]

Long day today worked 5pm-11:30pm then from12:30am-7:30am then from 9-11am then from 5pm-11:15pm and I'm off now no rolls to hunt yet still waiting on the bank. I hope you are all enjoying the coins that you have I carry my fake 1856 flying eagle brass medal and my 1908-s indian head cent everywhere with me now till I get used to owning a 1908-s I'm obsessed with it. Good Luck out their!

[pigeonman333rd]

So since my bank is befuddling over whether of not they can spare 450.00 in change for a week for me to roll hunt I bought 2 rolls of cull semi key dates but I haven't seen how bad they are yet they haven't came yet if they are of no use I will roll them in the cull roll if they have the date I will start cherry picking my set again the add said 1 1915=d 6 1912-d 6 1909 one 1931 clear dates but I'm hoping for a few more I would be pleased with 25 clear dates out of 100 coins for 50 dollars that's two bucks a piece a little high but 1909's are expensive retail 5 dollars g4 3 dollars red book but try to get one for three dollars! The stores have them but vg's 7-10 dollars, f12 or better 20 dollars and realistically red book says 30 dollars uncirculated coins. I don't know where the red book gets their averages from but I've never been able to buy a 1909 vdb unc coin for less than 65-70 dollars ms 60-ms63 and ms 64 120 dollars years ago which are now on amazon for 650 dollars last time I checked all ana certified nice coins neon yellow to red in color but lack luster as far as reflective bull luster. The brightness of a cleaned coin but no better. The hardest part will be roll hunting and bartering for the 1930's g4's I want to pay .5 cents a piece for each one I don't have to not increase the price of the set. If they give me a good coin for .5 cents then I will case it and try again. 

[Mike Meenderink]

Tell me all about it guys...Ill let you know who's got the most knowledge and...go

[EagleRJO]

On 1/15/2023 at 6:53 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

Tell me all about it guys...Ill let you know who's got the most knowledge and...go

 

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1853-california-gold-4-octagon-indian-1973968894

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/15/2023 at 5:28 PM, EagleRJO said:

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1853-california-gold-4-octagon-indian-1973968894

 

On 1/15/2023 at 5:28 PM, EagleRJO said:

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1853-california-gold-4-octagon-indian-1973968894

1853 brass token California Gold  I believe. I did buy a mini California gold piece. Now mine was 13mm .69g goldene brass minted by Daniel Hurkert 1972 and earlier. Who made yours? 

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/15/2023 at 5:38 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

 

1853 brass token California Gold  I believe. I did buy a mini California gold piece. Now mine was 13mm .69g goldene brass minted by Daniel Hurkert 1972 and earlier. Who made yours? 

Is yours real Gold and did you find that in change because that beats anything I have found in change if that's real gold. My coin is an 1852 goldene brass 1/2 cent token and I think I got it in the dollar or four for a dollar bin but who knows there is a five dollar bin as well and it's usually customary if you get a great deal out of the 4 for a dollar bin to buy one item out of the five dollar bin to sweeten the deal for the shop owner. For example I don't have a single 1870's indian that didn't come from the four for a dollar bin all g4 or just date holders but we got a few. My guess if it's goldene brass it's a Daniel Hurkert Creation if not thats an excellent coin find!

[EagleRJO]

It could be older 22 carat gold through more modern thinly plated brass core.  Would need SG tests.

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/15/2023 at 5:47 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

Is yours real Gold and did you find that in change because that beats anything I have found in change if that's real gold. My coin is an 1852 goldene brass 1/2 cent token and I think I got it in the dollar or four for a dollar bin but who knows there is a five dollar bin as well and it's usually customary if you get a great deal out of the 4 for a dollar bin to buy one item out of the five dollar bin to sweeten the deal for the shop owner. For example I don't have a single 1870's indian that didn't come from the four for a dollar bin all g4 or just date holders but we got a few. My guess if it's goldene brass it's a Daniel Hurkert Creation if not thats an excellent coin find!

I guess it's real gold I went to the worth point site but doesn't gold not tarnish?

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/15/2023 at 3:53 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

Tell me all about it guys...Ill let you know who's got the most knowledge and...go

If I found that I would either pass it down to a family member or trade it for a whole collection but I wouldn't sell it. My guess is it's trade for rare goods would be how to get the most for your money out of it. If you have a wife maybe ask her opinion on the metal or coin. I think they are supposed to be .50 gold so not pure but have it xrf tested from one of your coin dealer friends so you don't have to pay. I think those guys charge 25.00 a test but i'm not sure I haven't been down that way since dropping mom off at the airport for vacation.  

[EagleRJO]

Could be grime or schmutz

[Sandon]

   Per the deluxe edition of the "Redbook", a.k.a. "Mega Red", legitimate privately issued California Small Denomination gold pieces are denominated with the words "CENTS", "DOL.", "DOLL." or "DOLLAR". (7th. ed. at 1351-52.) Non-denominated pieces such as the one posted by @Mike Meenderink are regarded as tokens and are much less valuable.  The piece also does not appear to be solid gold but to be some other metal that was plated or painted with something gold colored.

[Mike Meenderink]

This coin was dug up out of the ground. It is real gold but low karat thus the sulfur tarnishing. It is in fact a token and not a PI coin. Its not worth much but its very cool.

[EagleRJO]

On 1/15/2023 at 9:46 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

This coin was dug up out of the ground. It is real gold but low karat thus the sulfur tarnishing. It is in fact a token and not a PI coin. Its not worth much but its very cool.

Very cool find if you dug it up!

[Just Bob]

On 1/15/2023 at 5:53 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

Tell me all about it guys...Ill let you know who's got the most knowledge and...go

It is a souvenir token, probably from the 1960s. Possibly sold by Sydney Smith. His son, Art, sold varieties in the 70s with "REPLICA" added to the reverse. The reverse is listed as wreath #4d on Mike Locke's calgoldcoins.com. (22 reverse varieties listed, some of which may be merely die states of other varieties.) It is likely either gilt or brass plated. There is currently one for sale on Ebay HERE

[pigeonman333rd]

I had a very special day today I finally got to check out Heides Great Grand Fathers coin collection and it was all pvc flips so damaged but amazing. I seen a 1970 quarter labeled clipped planchet but with date half the coin clipped, I seen a 1955 triple struck coin with three dates on it all 1955, I seen a 1964 dime at first looked like a clad planchet so we took it out of the case false alarm it was silver and all sorts of errors and double dies a few bie errors all unc condition, I got to the last page with my magnet as I was scanning all pages for steel cents and a 1955 double headed penny stuck to the magnet un believable coin Lincoln faces one direction regular on one side and the other side he sits reversed with reversed date an amazing coin if it's real the folder was labled 1930-1970 and the case the 1955 steel cent was in said found in change with no other label. I immediately brought the coins back to her and told her we need to go to a coin show and have some professionals look at it. I did see some cool stuff that might be worth some money like washington silver quarter offsets that are uncirculated a 1964 silver dime clipped planchet the 1970 p,1970D and 1970-s clipped planchet cent set a 1937 lamination error with full date unc coin brilliant blue coin. Jfk half dollar missing clad error coin looks zinc. Jefferson nickels double stamped with two dates. Several other errors like wheat pennys missing u in unum all unc coins most of her great Grand Fathers coins were uncirculated though. I don't think anything other then the 1955 was less then ms 60. How lucky I feel to have seen such a collection. I do wish I owned that penny though real or not a 1955 double headed regular obverse reversed date reverse steel cent unbelievable. I thought that set was really unique I was supposed to keep it for a week to do research but no way she's got to take charge of that situation and protect her assets. I would have taken pictures but I had to get it back to it's rightful owner.

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/5/2023 at 3:47 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

How can I get it to you I'd do it for free to a fellow coin friend!

Mr Bill I'm afraid that coin has been said to be lost in the mail on the receipt they are offering a refund but I refuse I can wait!

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/17/2023 at 9:11 AM, pigeonman333rd said:

I had a very special day today I finally got to check out Heides Great Grand Fathers coin collection and it was all pvc flips so damaged but amazing. I seen a 1970 quarter labeled clipped planchet but with date half the coin clipped, I seen a 1955 triple struck coin with three dates on it all 1955, I seen a 1964 dime at first looked like a clad planchet so we took it out of the case false alarm it was silver and all sorts of errors and double dies a few bie errors all unc condition, I got to the last page with my magnet as I was scanning all pages for steel cents and a 1955 double headed penny stuck to the magnet un believable coin Lincoln faces one direction regular on one side and the other side he sits reversed with reversed date an amazing coin if it's real the folder was labled 1930-1970 and the case the 1955 steel cent was in said found in change with no other label. I immediately brought the coins back to her and told her we need to go to a coin show and have some professionals look at it. I did see some cool stuff that might be worth some money like washington silver quarter offsets that are uncirculated a 1964 silver dime clipped planchet the 1970 p,1970D and 1970-s clipped planchet cent set a 1937 lamination error with full date unc coin brilliant blue coin. Jfk half dollar missing clad error coin looks zinc. Jefferson nickels double stamped with two dates. Several other errors like wheat pennys missing u in unum all unc coins most of her great Grand Fathers coins were uncirculated though. I don't think anything other then the 1955 was less then ms 60. How lucky I feel to have seen such a collection. I do wish I owned that penny though real or not a 1955 double headed regular obverse reversed date reverse steel cent unbelievable. I thought that set was really unique I was supposed to keep it for a week to do research but no way she's got to take charge of that situation and protect her assets. I would have taken pictures but I had to get it back to it's rightful owner.

The cool thing is Heidi has two safes full of her great grand Fathers coins mostly rolls and some folders but supposedly she wanted me to look at the folder she handed me because it never left his side he carried it everywhere!

[pigeonman333rd]

On 1/17/2023 at 9:44 AM, pigeonman333rd said:

The cool thing is Heidi has two safes full of her great grand Fathers coins mostly rolls and some folders but supposedly she wanted me to look at the folder she handed me because it never left his side he carried it everywhere!

I should have said the coin had two 5's on the obverse two backward 5's on the reverse not the whole date!