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  1. Hansen is a huge collector! Look at his sets across the street. I have a few slabs that have the Hansen on them. Also Dr. Long, Paul Kiraly, etc. I bought the coin not the holder so it doesn’t bother me.

    I also don’t think it is unusual for coins to be sold as upgrades are made. I see quite a few coins that I owned at one time that are now in other sets. Albeit I don’t have my pedigree label on them as I was too tight to spend the extra for the label!

  2. Ali,

     

    Slot score discrepancies still exist for Nevada, Nebraska, Colorado, North Dakota, South Dakota, Montana, Washington, Idaho, Wyoming, Utah, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona and Alaska. In the slots for the Silver set all of those slots show having 453 points each. In the combined clad and silver, they range anywhere from 163 for Nevada and 674 for Wyoming. The slot scores are base on the PF70 UCAM grade.

  3. Some of the silver quarter proofs show a different score in the silver proof only vs. the proof and clad set. For example, my 2008 Hawaii has a score of 453 in the silver set. In the silver and clad set it has a score of 395.There are some other that show the same score difference.

     

    Thanks.

  4. That is a tough call. I would think you would do better selling individual but it could take more time. IMO the NGC value is kind of like MSRP on a car. You may want to look at auction archives such as Great Collections or Heritage and you can get a realistic price comparable to your coins.

     

    Good luck.

  5. There are many venues available to feed your passion. Depends on your goals and objectives. 

    One piece of advice I would offer is buy the single rare coin over a bunch of commons. You mentioned the SVBD. Common coins will always be common and may or may not hold value over time. There are still some decent circulation series you can collect from your change. State quarters come to mind. I still find the occasional silver nickel or buffalo in my change. Also. you can go the bank and buy some rolls to go through.

     

    Good luck!

     

  6. In MS67, in this series a nice set can be assembled relatively easy. Throw  in the FT or FB designation and the complexion of the silver series changes completely. Look at actual auction and sales data and prices can go the moon. Find an MS68 with FT or FB and many issues bring well over the $1000. mark. Also keep in mind there is a lot of crossover that happens in this series so a lot of populations shown in FT and FB are not correct.

    i think a very similar circumstance exists with Franklin halves as well. MS65 and MS66 sets can be assembled fairly easy. Add the FBL designation and look at prices in MS67 grades.

  7. To the OP. You need to make sure your coins are worth having them graded. If you are not comfortable with judging the grade of your coins, go to a reputable dealer to  help you screen them. Grading can be expensive so you need to make sure your coins are of high enough value to cover grading and auction costs if you expect to make a profit.

     

    good luck.

  8. 1960 Roosevelt Dime certified by NGC as MS67FT. Please see the pictures. 

    Asking $250. including shipping. Well below what they have been bringing at auction.

    I will consider trades for other silver Roosevelt Dimes of equal (or greater!) value.

     

    Paypal F&F preferred but money order is fine as well.

    Thanks for looking and stay safe out there!

    1960 Obverse 3403048-001.png

    1960 Reverse 3403048-001.png