JKK

I think EF is high for the $10. My thought was VF.

It's not a coin. Those who have knowledge about coins know what is not a coin.
If you pointed at a horse and said, "Tell me what kind of camel that is," and a camel expert said "That isn't a camel at all; it's a horse," would you say to him: "If you are a camel expert, surely you can tell me what kind of camel it is?"

Anyone interested in voicing their thoughts??🙃🕺🏼

Now let’s talk Doubled dies!. 
We can see who’s got what 🙃💥💥🥴

Okay. This is me not telling you that.
I am not sure that's much help.

That is the problem. It is not a coin, so it is not listed in any of the common references.
Compare your piece to other gold coins. Yours does not have an issuing government, or denomination, or name of the person being pictured, or any other feature normally found on a legitimate coin, aside from a date which may or may  not be the actual date of issue, (and, my money is on it not being the actual date.)
If you really believe it is gold, take it to a jewelry store and have it tested. Heck, take it to four or five jewelry stores. Get all of them to test it
 If it is gold, sell it. If it is not, then use it to level your refrigerator or stop your table from wobbling.

Reckon it's not blood. Maybe someone sneezed on it long ago, or caught it in the spray pattern of a shot of kitchen cleaner.

Remember: it used to be money. (It still is, of course. But you know what I mean.) There was a day when that was no more special to anyone than is a common presidential dollar today. They thought no more of vandalizing it than we do of running a 2017 penny through an elongate machine.

That's one thing grading will do for you, if you want to be dead sure. That's how we found out. I had already been suspicious of them and marked both as questionable, and sure enough, the grading service body bagged them as not genuine. Both were incuse Indian designs from the early 1900s, a $5 and a $2.50. Also, just because they test positive for gold doesn't make them authentic. It's quite possible to plate a cast counterfeit struck from something else, though in most cases weight should be a good test for that because I don't see anything on the periodic table that is common, easily worked, and similar in density to the Au/Cu alloy.

One of your biggest potential issues is how they abrade each other in the tubes. Some of that will have already happened simply from handling the rolls. Until each is segregated and protected, as you describe with the holders, that will continue each time they are moved.

Would it possibly be a proof? That could be possibly the reason for plating To conserve wear? Also how would a guy get that off without damaging the coin.

Had to take my most desired coin out of the collection this Sunday night so I could wash it up some !! 😁😉

Well, based upon that wealth of specific information and the clear photos, I estimate that your coin is worth one cent.

It helps a lot to know how MD and DD results occur.
As I understand it, mechanical doubling occurs when the planchet moves during the striking process. That's why it looks shelfy. It is not a die variety, of course, because the problem does not lie with the dies. Imagine if you were sticking a signet into softened wax, and someone moved the wax very slightly just as your impression reached full depth.
A doubled die occurs, to my understanding, when the working die is created from the working hub. This means that all coins struck by that particular die will reflect the doubling, and that its ghostly images will each reflect the features the coin should have had only once. I am not sure whether it would be right to say that the mistake that creates a DD is somewhat like the error that creates MD (just at the die creation rather than coin striking), but it might be.
It is very rare to discover new DD types, because we've been looking at these suckers for decades now in many cases, and people who are very eager to find them have gone through totes and totes of pennies. This doesn't mean that no uncatalogued DD can exist; it just means that they are vanishingly rare because most of the DDs have been discovered.

As long as you won't be mad when you get the results, I guess. It is very unlikely the values will justify the expense, but if you can afford it and want to, it's ultimately your call.

As long as you won't be mad when you get the results, I guess. It is very unlikely the values will justify the expense, but if you can afford it and want to, it's ultimately your call.

When you post a question about a coin or coins, it's worth remembering that the people giving you answers--unless it is specifically about an NGC policy matter or submission--are volunteer hobbyists who do this for fun. They are not speaking for NGC; they speak only for themselves, and they want to help people. When you do a good job of posting your inquiry, you increase your chances of helpful replies, because you show respect for the volunteers' time.
Please do:
Ask a question, or multiple questions. We need to know what to focus on. Authenticity? Grade? Identification? Value? All of these? Think about your questions. "What would this grade at NGC?" and "What grade would you give this coin?" are two very different questions. If you ask the first one, only people who know a lot about NGC's ways have much to offer you. "How much is this worth?" is another nebulous question. Better: "What would a dealer pay me for this?" Or: "What would a dealer sell this for?" Post clear photos of the entire obverse, reverse, and if necessary the edge. If need be, add zoomed photos of specific features, but always clear shots of both full sides. Post all pictures of a given coin in the same thread. Accept that if you have photographic limitations, and you keep posting badly photographed coins, you'll keep being told they're not good enough to use to answer your question. You can't expect everyone to read all your threads and know your circumstances, be they poverty or Parkinson's or can'tbebothereditis. It's not their fault your photos can't or won't get better, even if it is also not always your own fault. Use a thread title that describes the coin(s), so that people who know the subject matter are likelier to read the thread. If you just inherited Bampaw's silver dollar collection which you can see spans the period 1850-1921, you could title it "Evaluating silver dollar collection 1850-1921." People who know a lot about those silver dollars will see it and be likely to help you. "Grading advice" is bad; everyone wants grading advice. "Morgan dollar grading advice" is good. "Is this fake?" is bad. "Is this Chinese silver coin fake?" is good. Post only once per coin. (If you have received a huge collection, and you want to start with a picture of the whole hoard with zoomed shots of parts, that's no problem. This guideline is intended to keep people from slamming multiple fully photographed coins into a single thread, making it difficult to figure out which one the answers are talking about. So if it's a hoard, and you single out some for close scrutiny, go with new threads for each of those.) If the picture files are too large in terms of data, learn to make them smaller without losing necessary information. Paint.net is a free image editor for Windows. Open your pictures in it, crop them, and save them as .jpgs. Look at what sizes they are now. This is too easy. If there is any question of identification or authentication, include weight in grams and diameter in millimeters. If you don't know the metric system, use an online converter. Weight is one of the key diagnostics of authenticity and unless the coin is too obviously bogus to bother, you will be asked for it. Just include it with your first post. Tell us what you know, or what you believe to be the case, about the coin. It's okay to be incorrect. Understand that the term "melt" does not automatically mean someone plans to melt the coin down, nor is anyone suggesting you should. It refers simply to the value of the metal for its own sake. Do not freak out when someone says "melt" about Bampaw's Morgan dollars. We really do not want or expect you to throw it in a blast furnace, all right? Use punctuation. Being easy to read works to your benefit. When you write a twelve-line paragraph with no periods or commas, people tune you out. For those who need reminders, this , is a comma. You use it to separate phrases, more or less. This . is a period. You use it to end most sentences. Hitting Enter will insert a paragraph break. You use this between series of thoughts. Live them. Love them. Use them. because ill tell u what really suxors is when some1 posts sententses like this 1 4 about half a page its impossibel 2 read and some people including me will prob not finish readin it which means u arent gettin as many respontses think about it ur only hurtin ur own cozz notice how stooped this reads ur in affect makin urself ten times harder 2 help and frankly its disrespectfull 2 assume entellegent people should do all that extra work 4 ur sake now kinely clean up ur act and rite like u at least got thru 6ixth grade im glad we had this little talk Come prepared to accept responsive answers. Brace yourself to learn that Bampaw or Opa, always considered the family's Great Numismatist, may not have been so great at this. No one seeks to offend your relative's legacy, but the coin must be called what it is. Be patient. No one who doesn't know the answer is going to post "I don't know." It can take days to a week for someone to notice. Remember that some inquiries may require research, for which volunteers are not being paid, and are doing as they have time. Expect that opinions may vary, even among experienced numismatists. Realize that if you're rude and/or difficult, your problem is not the people who take time to fight with you. Your problem is the people who, without a word, mark you down as someone not to bother with in the future--because you have no idea who or how many they are, and thus have no power to alleviate that diagnosis. Kindly do not:
Just post pictures without giving any indication of what you want to learn. Post glare-obscured, blurry, or otherwise poor photos. Post only partial pictures of errors or damage. Complain that your pics are too big to post. Use an image editor to crop and save them as .jpgs. Get defensive when told your pics are not good. Maybe you're bad at photography; maybe you don't have a good camera; maybe the photography gods just don't like you. If you can do better, do so. If you cannot do better, than just accept that this limits how much we can help you. Post a new thread for every photo of the same coin. Post new threads in the same forum, or other forums, with reference to the same coin. Once suffices. The shotgun approach makes one look impatient and immature. Use a meaningless thread title like "looking for advice" or "no idea what 2 do" or "plz help." Those tell people nothing about the discussion except that it was begun by someone who picks meaningless thread titles. Omit weight and diameter, unless they are completely irrelevant to your question. Get annoyed if you don't like the answers. If you disagree with them, fine; act on your views. Ask us to tell you how we know it's a counterfeit. While that's a legit question on its face, the problem is that even if you didn't mint the fake, those who make them are always looking for ways to improve. We frown upon supplying helpful feedback to criminals, and so should you. So no, don't ask us that. And if we tell you politely that we aren't going into detail, don't get annoyed because you don't like that answer. Grouse about not getting any replies. No one knows everything; no one has unlimited time; sometimes no one knows the answer. Come in telling how many Youtube videos you have watched about coins. This will lower your credibility. Use Photobucket links. If you do, don't anticipate that people will use them. Photobucket has been connected with numerous malware and virus infections. Spell 'nickel' as 'nickle.' Whether referring to the element or the five-cent coin, this misspelling is a very bad look. If you take the time to do this correctly, you can learn a lot more here than if you skip important steps.
If you do not take the time to do this correctly, some posters may decide that their time is better spent helping other people.
Lastly, here is a Cliff's Notes version that would take care of 95% of the most common disappointed inquiries. If you want to post yours anyway, fine, but just please kindly do not engage in a protracted and dullard debate when you are told that:
Your 1804 silver dollar is a bad counterfeit. Look up authentic examples and compare closely. Your 1776 Continental dollar is a bad counterfeit or a souvenir replica. Many were churned out. What you think is a double die is almost surely mechanical doubling, which carries no premium. What you think is a mint error is likely post-mint damage, and your coin is worth face value. Your "silver" non-1943 penny is plated, replated, has had the plating come off, is altered, or somesuch. Your "bronze" 1943 penny is altered somehow, and is worth very little. Your Greek "silver" coin with flanges sticking out of its edges is a bad cast counterfeit. Your cheesy-looking brass token is not gold, and is not a coin. Any clown can mint brass tokens with bad designs. Cleaning your coins is a stupid idea. Yes, even for you. You, too. If you ask how, listen to the people who tell you not to do so. If you cite Etsy as an authority, people will laugh their heads off with good reason. This is horrible for your cred. If you cite a Youtube video as an authority, people will laugh with good reason. This is bad for your cred. If you have more than three supposed error coins you found in change, and plan to post them all, the odds are overwhelming that none of them are mint errors worthy of note. If you keep posting these without seeming to learn, people might conclude that learning is not your thing. There, that rounds up the usual suspects. I'm not saying those answers are automatically always right. However, as the strongest probabilities, they should be presumed correct unless they can be proven wrong. If you have one child and something is broken in the house, not by you or your spouse, typically the child did it. If you can prove the kid innocent, fair enough; but you know the kid almost surely did it. If you argue about a "double die" at fatuous length when it's clear you don't know what one really is, you will look like the kid with soot all over him insisting he didn't really dig around in the fireplace.
Don't be that kid.
===
Opinions, comments, additions, suggestions?

Fortunately I've done nothing to deserve such board punishment.
See it from the other point of view. Someone posts a coin and wants to know something about it. This particular coin not only does not interest me in the slightest, I know zero about it. Anything I might say would speak from great ignorance and apathy. What on earth could I possibly say? "Hi, I know nothing about this and don't even collect those, but I'm such a Mary Worth that I have to have a post in every thread so this is yours. Good luck!" That's what it would come down to. How idiotic would that be on my part? Many boards have That Person. I believe we should not be That Person.
If people do not respond, it's because they don't know or don't care (which may sound cold but is not an unacceptable outlook provided it is not rudely voiced), and anyone posting a question has to make peace with that because it's the only realistic reaction to expect from anyone who can't help.

When you post a question about a coin or coins, it's worth remembering that the people giving you answers--unless it is specifically about an NGC policy matter or submission--are volunteer hobbyists who do this for fun. They are not speaking for NGC; they speak only for themselves, and they want to help people. When you do a good job of posting your inquiry, you increase your chances of helpful replies, because you show respect for the volunteers' time.
Please do:
Ask a question, or multiple questions. We need to know what to focus on. Authenticity? Grade? Identification? Value? All of these? Think about your questions. "What would this grade at NGC?" and "What grade would you give this coin?" are two very different questions. If you ask the first one, only people who know a lot about NGC's ways have much to offer you. "How much is this worth?" is another nebulous question. Better: "What would a dealer pay me for this?" Or: "What would a dealer sell this for?" Post clear photos of the entire obverse, reverse, and if necessary the edge. If need be, add zoomed photos of specific features, but always clear shots of both full sides. Post all pictures of a given coin in the same thread. Accept that if you have photographic limitations, and you keep posting badly photographed coins, you'll keep being told they're not good enough to use to answer your question. You can't expect everyone to read all your threads and know your circumstances, be they poverty or Parkinson's or can'tbebothereditis. It's not their fault your photos can't or won't get better, even if it is also not always your own fault. Use a thread title that describes the coin(s), so that people who know the subject matter are likelier to read the thread. If you just inherited Bampaw's silver dollar collection which you can see spans the period 1850-1921, you could title it "Evaluating silver dollar collection 1850-1921." People who know a lot about those silver dollars will see it and be likely to help you. "Grading advice" is bad; everyone wants grading advice. "Morgan dollar grading advice" is good. "Is this fake?" is bad. "Is this Chinese silver coin fake?" is good. Post only once per coin. (If you have received a huge collection, and you want to start with a picture of the whole hoard with zoomed shots of parts, that's no problem. This guideline is intended to keep people from slamming multiple fully photographed coins into a single thread, making it difficult to figure out which one the answers are talking about. So if it's a hoard, and you single out some for close scrutiny, go with new threads for each of those.) If the picture files are too large in terms of data, learn to make them smaller without losing necessary information. Paint.net is a free image editor for Windows. Open your pictures in it, crop them, and save them as .jpgs. Look at what sizes they are now. This is too easy. If there is any question of identification or authentication, include weight in grams and diameter in millimeters. If you don't know the metric system, use an online converter. Weight is one of the key diagnostics of authenticity and unless the coin is too obviously bogus to bother, you will be asked for it. Just include it with your first post. Tell us what you know, or what you believe to be the case, about the coin. It's okay to be incorrect. Understand that the term "melt" does not automatically mean someone plans to melt the coin down, nor is anyone suggesting you should. It refers simply to the value of the metal for its own sake. Do not freak out when someone says "melt" about Bampaw's Morgan dollars. We really do not want or expect you to throw it in a blast furnace, all right? Use punctuation. Being easy to read works to your benefit. When you write a twelve-line paragraph with no periods or commas, people tune you out. For those who need reminders, this , is a comma. You use it to separate phrases, more or less. This . is a period. You use it to end most sentences. Hitting Enter will insert a paragraph break. You use this between series of thoughts. Live them. Love them. Use them. because ill tell u what really suxors is when some1 posts sententses like this 1 4 about half a page its impossibel 2 read and some people including me will prob not finish readin it which means u arent gettin as many respontses think about it ur only hurtin ur own cozz notice how stooped this reads ur in affect makin urself ten times harder 2 help and frankly its disrespectfull 2 assume entellegent people should do all that extra work 4 ur sake now kinely clean up ur act and rite like u at least got thru 6ixth grade im glad we had this little talk Come prepared to accept responsive answers. Brace yourself to learn that Bampaw or Opa, always considered the family's Great Numismatist, may not have been so great at this. No one seeks to offend your relative's legacy, but the coin must be called what it is. Be patient. No one who doesn't know the answer is going to post "I don't know." It can take days to a week for someone to notice. Remember that some inquiries may require research, for which volunteers are not being paid, and are doing as they have time. Expect that opinions may vary, even among experienced numismatists. Realize that if you're rude and/or difficult, your problem is not the people who take time to fight with you. Your problem is the people who, without a word, mark you down as someone not to bother with in the future--because you have no idea who or how many they are, and thus have no power to alleviate that diagnosis. Kindly do not:
Just post pictures without giving any indication of what you want to learn. Post glare-obscured, blurry, or otherwise poor photos. Post only partial pictures of errors or damage. Complain that your pics are too big to post. Use an image editor to crop and save them as .jpgs. Get defensive when told your pics are not good. Maybe you're bad at photography; maybe you don't have a good camera; maybe the photography gods just don't like you. If you can do better, do so. If you cannot do better, than just accept that this limits how much we can help you. Post a new thread for every photo of the same coin. Post new threads in the same forum, or other forums, with reference to the same coin. Once suffices. The shotgun approach makes one look impatient and immature. Use a meaningless thread title like "looking for advice" or "no idea what 2 do" or "plz help." Those tell people nothing about the discussion except that it was begun by someone who picks meaningless thread titles. Omit weight and diameter, unless they are completely irrelevant to your question. Get annoyed if you don't like the answers. If you disagree with them, fine; act on your views. Ask us to tell you how we know it's a counterfeit. While that's a legit question on its face, the problem is that even if you didn't mint the fake, those who make them are always looking for ways to improve. We frown upon supplying helpful feedback to criminals, and so should you. So no, don't ask us that. And if we tell you politely that we aren't going into detail, don't get annoyed because you don't like that answer. Grouse about not getting any replies. No one knows everything; no one has unlimited time; sometimes no one knows the answer. Come in telling how many Youtube videos you have watched about coins. This will lower your credibility. Use Photobucket links. If you do, don't anticipate that people will use them. Photobucket has been connected with numerous malware and virus infections. Spell 'nickel' as 'nickle.' Whether referring to the element or the five-cent coin, this misspelling is a very bad look. If you take the time to do this correctly, you can learn a lot more here than if you skip important steps.
If you do not take the time to do this correctly, some posters may decide that their time is better spent helping other people.
Lastly, here is a Cliff's Notes version that would take care of 95% of the most common disappointed inquiries. If you want to post yours anyway, fine, but just please kindly do not engage in a protracted and dullard debate when you are told that:
Your 1804 silver dollar is a bad counterfeit. Look up authentic examples and compare closely. Your 1776 Continental dollar is a bad counterfeit or a souvenir replica. Many were churned out. What you think is a double die is almost surely mechanical doubling, which carries no premium. What you think is a mint error is likely post-mint damage, and your coin is worth face value. Your "silver" non-1943 penny is plated, replated, has had the plating come off, is altered, or somesuch. Your "bronze" 1943 penny is altered somehow, and is worth very little. Your Greek "silver" coin with flanges sticking out of its edges is a bad cast counterfeit. Your cheesy-looking brass token is not gold, and is not a coin. Any clown can mint brass tokens with bad designs. Cleaning your coins is a stupid idea. Yes, even for you. You, too. If you ask how, listen to the people who tell you not to do so. If you cite Etsy as an authority, people will laugh their heads off with good reason. This is horrible for your cred. If you cite a Youtube video as an authority, people will laugh with good reason. This is bad for your cred. If you have more than three supposed error coins you found in change, and plan to post them all, the odds are overwhelming that none of them are mint errors worthy of note. If you keep posting these without seeming to learn, people might conclude that learning is not your thing. There, that rounds up the usual suspects. I'm not saying those answers are automatically always right. However, as the strongest probabilities, they should be presumed correct unless they can be proven wrong. If you have one child and something is broken in the house, not by you or your spouse, typically the child did it. If you can prove the kid innocent, fair enough; but you know the kid almost surely did it. If you argue about a "double die" at fatuous length when it's clear you don't know what one really is, you will look like the kid with soot all over him insisting he didn't really dig around in the fireplace.
Don't be that kid.
===
Opinions, comments, additions, suggestions?

A die marriage registry, I believe, would mean a listing of known obverse and reverse dies, and which were ever used together. With older US coins, for example, the number of dies can be quite finite. I have a 1794 cent that is from an obverse die that developed a crack diagonally through the 4 in the date. Through such tiny cues, we can decide exactly which obverse die that is, and then which reverse dies were used with it (and of course, from that, the die state...for example, my cent is a medium die state; if the crack were longer, I think that means late die state). I would assume that the number is an identifier of one particular die marriage.
If UVC is universal variety code, that would probably mean a unique numeric identifier of a catalogued variety. Some glorious, devoted enthusiasts probably set out to compile a definitive catalogue of varieties, and this is the designator for this particular variation.

Yes. If you post the same coin at least five times, it will remove the haze, so two more posts to go.

Welcome to numismatics. This is fun. You might end up deciding to keep them.
Suggest you start by dividing it between US (if you are in the US) and foreign, then divide the foreign stuff by country, then by believed timeframe. For the US stuff, divide by denomination and then by type. If it's a large collection, posting useful pictures of everything could be a bit difficult. My guidance would be to post the ones that most confuse you, or where a single example would help you identify many coins. Post whatever you like, of course, but if it's a big collection at some point you'll have to pick and choose.
Bear in mind (and please take these with a friendly tone meant to give maximum help):
Just because it's shiny doesn't mean it's worth a lot. Just because it's not shiny doesn't mean it's worthless. Just because it's old doesn't mean it's worth a lot. Just because it's in a plastic holder as a set doesn't make that a mint or proof set, or even valuable. Don't clean any of it and don't ask us how you should clean any of it, because we will give you the very sound advice not to do so. Just imagine we gave it to you already, and that if you do otherwise, 99.9% likely you will be combusting value against our nearly unanimous guidance. And no, we won't suddenly decide that you and this case are the vanishing exceptions to that guidance. Don't clean any of it. (Hopefully I was clear enough. If I was not, I suggest you don't clean the coins.) Do protect the coins, at least those that aren't worn. Consider getting a bunch of plastic flips to hold the nicer ones, especially those that look uncirculated. Fingerprints on uncirculated coins are bad. They don't need any new dings or scratches, either. How to put this tactfully: Sometimes our elders are/were not as capable at numismatics as we have always believed. I learned that when a bunch of completely loose proof coins in my passed-on FIL's collection just fell out along with the rest of a paper roll of coins. I'm currently helping liquidate a lady's dad's collection and she is shocked and disgusted to learn that he bought two spendy counterfeits, a bunch of cleaned coins, and overgraded everything. I helped another lady value her deceased husband's collection, for which he paid with secret credit cards he ran up, and the short version was that she could just about pay a month's rent in a dive in the Portland suburbs with its value (a small fraction of what he actually spent). Very, very rarely does the relative turn out to have been the Great Numismatist we were always led to believe; we all think they are very special, and as people, many are, but one can be a great person and a suck collector. Separate your assessment of the coins from any assumed admiration of the relative's coin knowledge. The silver is always worth something. Gold is always worth something, but all that looks like gold is not. Most of what you will suspect is a very pricey error is probably either post-mint damage or a no-premium detracting condition. Let us know how we can help you figure this out.

It says "I'm going to sabotage the master dies for Longacre's new twenty."

Thank you. Appreciate your help. 

It's important to separate those questions.
No, they likely don't have much monetary value. If you were going to ask about having them slabbed, that'd be money you would not recoup.
If you like them, yes, it's worth keeping them. If so, definitely protect the surfaces. A cardboard flip is not very expensive.
Collect what you enjoy, period. Never worry about whether your way of collecting offends people who think their vision of the hobby is the only permissible outlook, and who thus scorn all others. There are very many different ways and styles of collecting and none of them are fundamentally wrong. Some styles won't generate big bucks in value, but that does not make them wrong.