JKK

Lysergic acid diethylamide costs money, pareidolia is free, and putting the two together, gazing at the thing with an open mind, a 1943 D/S over 1753 V with corroded rim damage, about 412 AD, is plausible.  Especially if you also consider the bump on the head, b g.  Edit: You ought to take the coin grading class, I heard NGC is hiring now....

Well oh heck it would do better on eBay 😂 bids up .seems to me people don't care about the grade as long as they get what they paid for.so keep adding to this post, your only making it seem what you saying could be a little lie and if I bump my head then it's my head 😂.so what's the highest on the grading scale? So how many are slabbed at that top grade,then you subtract the percentage of that and what do you get? You get still damaged coins even in BU rolls,so what's your information about that.did you also tell the people,that in fact for a 1943 copper penny to exist.well it will only be discover on a different coin planchet.so ok 👍 what else do you have.i told you I like the walking dead, just not the ones act like they alive and smart.

Look you can the 19.but you can't see the 43 yet all numbers are in the same condition wow come on you guys really

That's why the received wisdom says to buy the coin, not the holder.

Judging by this thread, it might be gilt copper. That doesn't mean it doesn't have value, but does suggest it's not gold. I'm not a token expert. I found a couple sold listings on Ebenezer for $350-375, both clearly labeled as brass and someone paid that kind of money for it. Might be a nice find.

Can't tell anything from those. They look like brass, not gold. Willing to give them another look if you can provide upright-rotated, better-cropped, sharper and better lit photos.

First: I'd buy a slabbed, non-problem US coin. Gold coins can get faked.
Putting aside the modern bullion stuff, and figuring that $20s are off the table (all are above $1500 even at melt), you have to ask whether you want to buy it for the metal or for the numismatic premium. That may seem a weird question, but it matters a lot because a great many perfectly good gold coins aren't that rare and get sold for neighborhood of melt. Most of them are larger. What I would do is use Coinflation to compare the melt value to the market prices on Numismedia (inflated but not unhelpful), and look at the disparity. I'd also look at the grade columns on Numismedia to see at what grade the value curve goes nuts.
Obviously, when there is a huge disparity between market prices and bullion price, you're buying the collectible premium. If you want your purchase to be less subject to metal market fluctuations, go for a coin with a large numismatic premium. Of course, there being no free lunches, it's then subject to numismatic supply and demand. But the point is that when you buy a dinky 1852 $1 in MS-61 at Numismedia's $330, or even at some reasonable fraction of that like $280-300, $84 is for the metal and the other $200-odd is the numismatic premium. If you buy a 1911 $10 in AU-50 for $1090, or at something like $880-930, $840 buys the gold. Not much premium.
Choose your risk category and preference. Those sites provide you plentiful data by which to assess this.

Thanks Ronnie Stein.oh yeah you tell just Bob .a picture is worth more than a thousand words 😉👍 stamped over a 1753 silver v Coin .ok yes thank you.you gave yourself away when you didn't want to say it wasn't a 1943S .so yeah something don't need to shine ,Or for that matter fit your demand even if you dislike the fact that it was me who found it.! So regardless.thank you even when you was at times giving me good information.so how long have you been doing it to people? Since you can't say it, well I'm I'm quite sure the viewers can see this

w5

R

With that being said, im now a multiple millionaire and im still arguing with some ! Why im unsure of.

What ever you do, don't clean it, or get fingerprints on it, just in case. Take care.

Don't know why you guys keep entertaining this rinky-dink stuff. There's no here here.

Please never clean a coin again, but please especially never let vinegar touch a coin again. I know of no circumstance where that would be a good idea.

Please never clean a coin again, but please especially never let vinegar touch a coin again. I know of no circumstance where that would be a good idea.

Think about it. From that photo, how is anyone supposed to answer your question? Try again.

Are the adult images any good? Don't care about the coin, but...

Are the adult images any good? Don't care about the coin, but...

Are the adult images any good? Don't care about the coin, but...

Be aware that not everything posted on Youtube is factual. The fact that something is hyped up online does not make it true. Videos are designed to get views and likes, not to make you rich. While it is possible to find something interesting in change every now and then, the odds of finding something valuable are very slim, and the odds of finding something that will make you rich are almost non-existant.

Always show both sides of coin when you have a question and state what you would like to know about them.
Also rotate your coins properly so I don't t get a kink in my neck trying to see them right side up.

It's hard to tell from those pictures. Also, there's the thing about teaching a man to fish vs. giving him a fish. Here is a good site showing the high points (where you would expect wear and/or strike weakness) of the Morgan design. Examine yours, under mag if necessary, to see if the high points have wear (a simple magnifying glass can tell you a lot). What looks like wear could also be detail that did not strike up fully. Note that, while you would not grade most coins with magnification, you would use it to ascertain questions like this, seek evidence of cleaning, and/or investigate damages and varieties.

It's hard. Numismatic photography is a fine art (one often abused by online sellers). I am awful at it.

We all hopefully respect our numismatic ancestors. I don't expect new arrivals to realize just how overrated the state of ancestral numismatics are. It just is. I helped a lady get rid of her dad's collection of gold coins, for which he probably paid $350K. She thought he was a Major Expert. When the two counterfeits were subtracted, the total gross hammer was about $150K. My wife's boss's husband had passed away, and he went into *spoon*loads of debt to buy world coins. Had a gorgeous collection in my view, including some very pretty ancients. I estimated that a dealer might give her $1600 for them. You can see where breaking the news of "Hubby/Uncan Sherry/Bampaw/Dad didn't know what he was doing" would get old, because no one wants to tell people that. One wants to gush, be excited, get psyched, fire up cigars and drink single-malt.
That's probably the weight, yeah--although I would weigh it myself rather than take anyone's word.
It's not that I don't like submission posts. I think they are fantastic, topical, and necessary, and I also think that I have no useful contributions to make about submissions. I was trying to help you understand how to get more attention. I'll leave those questions for someone who either works for NGC or who has ever actually sent a coin in for slabbing, rather than inflict an ignorant answer on you. And believe me, all my answers about slabbing would be ignorant.
I love looking at ancient coins, which is why I spent an amount of money that would shock you on buying the necessary references. Kindly: one coin per thread, describe the coin as best you know in the thread title, sharp obverse and reverse pics with good cropping, a photo of any insert or label you have (just as you did with this one), weight in g, average diameter in mm. Try for lighting as faithful as possible. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know where to find the experts if I get stuck.