Reno Raines

On 7/16/2023 at 7:41 PM, Jason Abshier said:

Dealer needs to make money on anything weather it’s silver bullion , scrap silver , collectible coins whatever the dealer will always have the upper hand… take one back to them they’ll only give you half price or melt value or not accept it at all … however they will be glad to take PF70 or MS70 modern bullion and mark it up way way way past melt value because they know some one is out there will buy it eventually 

I guess that I've been lucky since I've never paid price guide value for any of my pre graded NGC MS70 burnished ASE's so far.

On 7/15/2023 at 9:03 PM, EagleRJO said:

I agree with Sandon it's a 1923 Peace Dollar.  I also agree that it's probably not worth more than $25 to $30, if that with such a badly stained reverse.

I can clearly see the date of the OP's coin in the picture that Sandon took but I couldn't clearly see the date of the coin in the picture that the OP took.

On 7/15/2023 at 8:16 PM, Sandon said:

   It's definitely a 1923, with the same nearly closed "3" used on all 1923 Peace dollars. The OP presumably has a photo of the entire holder and can confirm this.   I created a cropped blowup of the date area, which came out small due to poor resolution, but you should be able to see that it is a "3":

The 1928 dated coins features an "8" whose top loop appears narrower than on the "3", as well as having other numerals with slightly different shapes, and looks like this:

   You don't want to confuse these two dates on Peace dollars!

Thanks for correcting and showing me the difference in the dates. Here's my NGC MS64 1923 P Peace Dollar.

On 7/15/2023 at 6:58 PM, Sandon said:

    Irregular or blotchy discoloration of this sort is sometimes referred to as "staining" by both NGC and PCGS. NGC classifies it as an "environmental effect" and defines it as follows:  "STAINED coins display discoloration but not corrosion. More often than not such staining is irremovable. When isolated to one side, it is described as OBV STAINED or REV STAINED."  See NGC Details Grading | NGC (ngccoin.com).

   1923 Peace dollars are abundantly common except in "gem" (65 or higher) uncirculated grades, and one that is impaired like this one probably isn't saleable for more than $25-$30.

The coin in the OP's post is a 1928 Peace Dollar but it is kinda difficult to see the date.

I'm a newbie when it comes to coin collecting but I wouldn't buy this coin. When it comes to coin collecting you want coins that are as close to perfection as possible not damaged or stained. To be honest I'm working on two sets currently with one being a set of NGC graded MS64 Peace Dollars. Hope this helps.

On 7/14/2023 at 9:13 AM, Jason Abshier said:

if I’m going to spend $200-$300 or more on a single coin ? I might as well save up a little more money and just try to buy it already graded in a NGC/PCGS holder and call it a day put it in collection it helps me save myself the hassle shipping a coin in for grading and waiting and fees and so on 

That's exactly what I do for the reasons you stated.

On 7/12/2023 at 8:18 PM, George Wayne Coffman said:

This is great information and very helpful. My issue is with the many sellers that don’t use same grading scale as NGC.  While their scale may closely resemble NGCs some grades don’t come close to what the coin represents. I truly wish it was a written coin collecting rule that every coin dealer/seller MUST use same grading scale notations. I’ve bought from Amazon and EBay and a few other dealers hoping the grading was correct only to find the coin is no where near what it was advertised as being. Thank you for allowing me to address this very frustrating issue. 

That's why I only buy coins that have been pre graded by NGC instead of hoping that the seller is correct in their grade assessment.

On 7/11/2023 at 10:09 PM, Modwriter said:

I just purchased my first proof set from the US Mint. 2023, clad, s minted. I went back to purchase the 2022 proof set but they were sold out. Found a proof set on Amazon but close to 3x the regular mint price. Is this normal for proof sets?

 

I don't collect the proof version of ASE's but if I were you I'd look elsewhere to try to find a better deal.

On 7/11/2023 at 11:22 AM, VKurtB said:

Same with me. I buy the W-mintmarked Burnished Uncirculated and the bullion strikes only. I got so tired of proofs. To me, they're just plain dumb-looking.

I agree with you VKurtB about the proofs.

On 4/11/2023 at 10:05 PM, LDH Coins & Memorabilia said:

Yes you are correct, my question had ambiguity. I really was asking about UNC Silver Eagles vs all others in terms of attraction, value etc. Thanx for input  

When it comes to ASE's I only collect the burnished aka the UNC. The burnished ASE program began in 2006 and have been minted each year since with the exception of 2009 and 2010. The burnished ASE's have the least amount minted each year compared to the bullion and proof versions. For this reason some "Experts" consider the burnished ASE's as a modern day rarity. Hope this helps.

What a waste of a bullion ASE.Good thing I only collect the burnished version of ASE's. SMDH.

Henri Charriere, I found a picture of the coin I found here on the price guide. It was a five dollar Indian Head gold coin but I can't remember what year the coin was. It was just one of those once in a lifetime things I guess.

How's come NGC only offers red and silver containers for graded coins? For example, why not make black with gold letters and other colored containers? It would make it easier to identify which coins are in each container when collecting sets.

My interest in coin collecting began when I was sixteen years old. I was walking to work as I didn't have a car and I found something shiny on the railroad tracks. I picked it up and it was a five dollar gold coin. While I was at work the next day my then step mom stole it from my room and used it to buy a pack of cigarettes. Ever since then I just tip toe in and out of the hobby as I just don't have enough time to fully read everything about coins.

On 7/1/2023 at 10:48 PM, xinfantry said:

I am wondering where the grader thought there was wheel marks on the obverse of this coin. I believe it should have gotten a straight grade.

 

I also would like to know how to resubmit this morgan to get another go around with the graders.

Maybe where the nose is if you look closely enough. My vision isn't what it used to be.

On 7/1/2023 at 9:31 PM, Lee Coen said:

Love finding errors on cents...but who knows? Thanks

I'm currently working on a set of burnished ASE's that have already been pre graded NGC MS70. Once I finish that I plan on buying some gold coins. 

Im not sure but I think it's just spending money. Hopefully someone with more coin collecting experience will be able to answer you in more detail soon.

I myself am new to coin collecting however when the more experienced / knowledgeable members of this message board gives their opinion about a coin based on a mere picture of the coin in question you can pretty much bank on it being the truth. Having said that and with the weight of the coin in question being under weight it's either what the members have already stated or possibly a countfiet.

If you're trying to complete a set of Morgan dollars then buy one to complete the set. If not just buy the one you like the most. I like the 1898 - O MS65+ from PCGS the most.

On 6/25/2023 at 10:33 PM, Getzri232 said:

have coin collection that I want to get rid of 

I only collect NGC MS70 burnished ASE's and gold coins. Please post your advertisement in the coin marketplace in the future.

On 6/25/2023 at 8:52 PM, GoldFinger1969 said:

I generally agree with you there, Tony...HOWEVER....to the extent we are all collectors some of us value certain labels or coins with certain features and are willing to lose money on them or hopefully make less money on them when the underlying PM rises in value.

For instance, while it's not the bulk of my silver collection, I do have some commemoratives that I paid a big premium for (the National Park Saint-Gaudens coins) relative to 1 ounce of silver.

As you and others have said, we are all different here.  To each his own.

Amen to that.

On 6/25/2023 at 8:26 PM, GoldFinger1969 said:

You melt ASEs into a single bar ?  I would think you're sacrificing liquidity and marketability.

The 100 oz bars of silver I make are just for myself. I do however make 10 oz bars of silver to sell on eBay. If you look up the most popular silver bar that the average person buys you'll see the it's the 10 oz bar. Okay we're way off the original topic of discussion so let's just basically close this subject.

On 6/25/2023 at 3:38 PM, powermad5000 said:

I have some ASE's but they have their own special labels such as "WTC recovery". That label means something. I drew the line a long time ago at what to me is purely a marketing gimmick and some guy like Mike Mezack is getting filthy rich off of. 

If I take an MS 70 First Day of Production slab, and I put it right next to a plain graded MS 70 slab, can anybody tell the difference between the COIN in the slabs????? Probably not. So, if I covered the labels and showed them to you first, you wouldn't know the difference between the two.

For myself (mind you not an ASE collector), I have taken that one step further as to the naked eye you can't tell the difference between MS 69 and MS 70. Why pay the 70 premium for a  BULLION coin when you can put together a set of MS 69s for half the price? Other than someone with something to prove making a superior registry set to others, I see no reason to even pay for MS 70 on bullion coins.

I never said that there's anything wrong with collecting any coins (including bullion coins)graded MS69 or lower. If I buy one gold coin and its graded an NGC MS62 and decide to do a set my OCD takes over abd I aim for every coin in the set to be the same grade. I just like you don't believe in label chasing as it has zero effect on the grade of the coin and all I'm buying is the coin on it's own merits.

On 6/25/2023 at 4:06 AM, EagleRJO said:

Looks like they have 1 oz cull silver coins at $30 if you wire buy 100, and I don't see anything below the Spot Ask Price they have of $22.62 per oz.

In fact even a bulk buy 100 oz bar is at $24.62 per oz if you wire buy 10 of them (1,000 oz), or 10% above spot, let alone anything at a  discounted Bid Price needed to make any money off that.

Do you have an example of one that you could post a link to as I am genuinely curious if any legit dealer could sell silver at 10% to 12% below Spot Bid Price, which is a loss for them.

No but as I said I make my own bars as it's very simple to do and less expensive. If you already have the equipment needed you'll just have to buy enough silver rounds to make the bar of the size you want. In my case I make 100 oz bars for myself but sometimes I'll make a 10 oz bar to sell on eBay just to make some quick cash.

On 6/25/2023 at 2:30 AM, EagleRJO said:

Where do you buy the ASE"s in bulk, and at what kind of discount?

Various places like SD Bullion for one and I average a 10 - 12 percent discount.