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124Spider

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Posts posted by 124Spider

  1. "Worth" means different things to different people.  To me, it's "worth" getting a coin graded when I reasonably expect that doing so will enhance the value of that coin by the price of getting it graded (including shipping costs and hassle factor).  I have my doubts that that would be case for a normal America the Beautiful quarter, which were widely collected and made by the billions.

     

    YMMV

  2. Hi,

    I've never sold a coin, but I'm starting to consider selling some.

    They come in two types:  (i) normal coins that I have upgraded (e.g., dimes and half dollars minted in 1921), and (ii) coins I bought from the U.S. Mint, but don't want to keep (either because they're duplicates--2021 Morgan/Peace dollars--or I just don't like them--2021 American Silver Eagle 2-coin "designer" set of reverse proofs).

    What's the best way to sell them?  I'm not as particular about getting every last cent of value as I am about selling to reliable adults.

    Also, would it make sense to get the U.S. Mint "special" coins graded, on the theory that an MS 70 would fetch a considerable premium over ungraded?

    Thanks.

    Mark

  3. On 11/7/2021 at 6:24 PM, Mohawk said:

    They are both 2 ounce silver rounds from the Sunshine Mint's Egyptian Gods 2 Ounce Ultra High Relief Silver series.  I'm attempting the whole set, maybe minus the first round which is Cleopatra because she's not an Egyptian God, so including her seems a bit silly to me but that completionist bug may bite me here, I don't know.  I'm considering doing a Custom Set of these on the Registry so I can share them and tell the stories of the gods depicted on them.  I love things from Antiquity and I love modern things that remember things from the Ancient World.

    Cleopatra was a descendant of Ptolemy, a general under Alexander the Great.  And as pharaoh, she was considered a "god on earth."  You'll get her!

     

  4. On 11/7/2021 at 5:44 PM, Mohawk said:

    Very nice, Mark.  My fiancée would be very into that coin (thumbsu

    Thanks!  I love big silver coins, and Peace dollars are particularly attractive, because they're so affordable (relative to Morgans and walking Liberty halves, at least), with no horribly expensive standard issues.  I'm a simple guy, just having fun filling albums with coins I find pretty, and I LOVE the fact that my Peace dollar album is full of coins like this, not one slabbed (well, the 1934-S is not quite as high grade).

  5. To me, "worth it" would mean that I feel confident that the coin will receive a grade that will mean the coin, slabbed, is worth as much more than unslabbed as it costs to have it graded (the value added of it being graded is at least as much as it costs to have it graded).  I have a complete set of Jefferson nickels in mint state, and I'm not even vaguely tempted to get any graded (besides, I like having them in the album).

    I have never sent a coin in for grading, but I have an extra set of 2021 Morgans/Peace dollars, which, if it graded at MS70, would sell for a lot more than ungraded, so I may send all my 2021 Morgans/Peace dollars in for grading.  But that's what it would take for it to be "worth it" to me.

    Mark

  6. Generally speaking, I'm not a fan of toning.

    Specifically:

    --I like red, red/brown, or brown copper coins; "brown" should be natural. 

    --I have a bunch of plebeian Jefferson and buffalo nickels in mint state, and the older ones have toned nicely; not garish or overwhelming, just a slight change of color.  I like that.

    --I vastly prefer blast white (if uncirculated) or normal patina (if circulated) silver coins.  I don't own anything minted between ancient Greece and 1878, so I have no opinion on how older silver should look.  I will admit that multi-toned Morgan dollars can be pleasing, if the toning covers the whole side in a reasonably continuous fashion, but I would always prefer no toning.

    Mark

  7. Following up on my flippant post earlier in this thread, I am truly impressed with the goal of a complete set of Morgans in MS65.  

    Even assuming you're talking about the "normal" 96-coin set (and not varieties, which seem endless with Morgans), that's a very, very tall order!

    I have ten left before I have a full set of Morgans.  I started with the easy ones (there are a LOT of those), and now have very expensive ones left.  I started that way, because I had no thought of ever completing the set, or even coming close (I still know that I'll never get the 1895, and possibly not the 1893-S; but I have always loved big silver coins, and just wanted to own some).  I don't have one coin in that set as high as MS 65 (my top is MS 64+--1883-CC GSA), and I have a number that are VF/EF.  And I have still spent a LOT of money on this set.

    If you're serious about getting a complete set, I agree with Coinbuf's excellent post--start with the most expensive first.  I would add that perhaps you should, very early, put some thought into your strategy for the 1893-S and 1895, which are ruinously expensive.

    I have spent some money upgrading coins I bought long ago, when my goals (and means) were even more modest than they are now.  I haven't felt bad about my upgrades, but few have been at all expensive.  For a project like you're outlining, however, I again would point you in the direction Coinbuf did, again with the added caveat to consider how you're going to deal with the most expensive ones.  And I second Coinbuf's admonishment to be picky about the ones you buy; to me, Morgans are beautiful coins, but I have seen very high-graded examples that are not attractive to me.

    Good luck!

    Mark

  8. On 11/3/2021 at 11:08 AM, Conder101 said:

    Sounds like a standard proxy bid.  You enter your maximum bid and each time you are out bid the proxy raises your bid by one increment over the current bid until someone bids more than your maximum.

    That is how it works there.