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Posts posted by Mr.Bill347
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JPM , good point. But within the group it pretty much screams, don’t grade coins by a tpg unless they are $300. As you said, let others pay the exorbitant fees.
so with so many people losing money on those exhorbitant fees, wouldn’t you think the amount of grading would somewhat diminish? NOT! But there are always plenty of slabs to buy. Few get the bargains that you get though!
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- Coinbuf, EagleRJO and powermad5000
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Well LucyG, welcome to the forum. You learned a hard lesson. One that many have and will encounter. The forum gets questions daily from folks asking about coins that they think are error coins. Much of the blame goes to the YouTube people that demonstrate worthless coins that they state are valuable errors. Real errors are few and far between. The folks on this forum are REALLY knowledgeable about errors and coins in general. If you had asked these folks about your coin, you would have saved yourself the expense and frustration you had. You might not always like the opinions here but for the most part, they are spot on. You cannot guess the judgement of a third party grader, who is always the final word. I’m not saying mistakes don’t happen but often what collectors see as value does not correctly occur. Your post is appropriate for those who are not in the know. But then those people do not post their coins here before the BIG disappointments.
- RonnieR131, Modwriter, Sandon and 2 others
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I don’t believe this coin was struck through. On the contrary I think it was monkeyed with. Notice the ring around the circumference, the obvious damage to the “IN GOD”, and a possible dimple very near what the dead center would be. Therefore I think this coin was tooled somehow and therefore PMD post mint damage.
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Very nice. It may have come from a proof set. It’s awfully crisp and clear not to mention beautiful red color.
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As Sandon stated, some older proof sets do command a higher price. 2010, 2012, and 2021 to name a few. The 1954 set cost me $60.
- Modwriter and Hoghead515
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John welcome to the forum. Your question is one that is often asked. Proof coins are all as perfect as can be in a production environment. However, it has been said that 80% of proof coins do not qualify as MS70. The cost to grade each coin will not yield a profit and can be up to $30-40 a coin. I collect proof sets and have managed to have a set from 1954-2023. It is important to note, US mint proof lenses are not sealed, and they will allow contaminates in the air to degrade or tone coins. That is why it is imperative to store proof sets correctly in specific boxes designed to counteract contaminates. The lenses should be considered dust and fingerprint protectors. There a a lot of collectors breaking apart proof sets and selling the proof coins individually, which if your end result is to profit from your proof sets, it may be the best way to go. I will buy these individual proof coins to complete an album from time to time. The other drawback is you cannot list ungraded proof sets in the registry. I know the TPGs used to grade entire sets, but I am unsure if they still do it.
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I have an antique dealer near me with about ten brown box Ike’s
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I’m NOT a fan of Ike! The coin, that is.
I have a number of them but finding one that hasn’t been abused is another thing. The best one I have is a gem proof bicentennial Ike.
- Hoghead515 and JT2
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Eagle, isn’t that a Proof DCAM? It would grade as a proof coin wouldn’t it?
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What I was saying , it’s difficult to find a decent 1921 D Morgan
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Gov Mint is stating that these are being restocked based on demand.
I do not like it and whatever intelligence they think is used here is wasted.
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My find of the week
in Newbie Coin Collecting Questions
Posted
Here are a of better pictures of the DDO 1964-D