Woods020

I was going to say 66 as well. But I see why you don’t love it. 

I have been picking up a lot of reference books as of late. Mostly focused on variety attribution across bust and seated coinage with a few exceptions. I’m in the market for some copper reference material. I have little knowledge and reference materials for early copper, and I need to remedy that. 
 
As an aside has anyone heard any updates on the new volumes of cherry pickers? At this point it’s kind of a joke to even ask any more. 

My collecting interest have slowed and matured, so I tend to buy more generalized books like From Mine to Mint, and less specialized references.  
I had a bad habit of getting a couple of coins in a series then buying the reference volume.  It got worse when I started in ancients.  I would spend $150+ on a book to ID a few low grade, late Roman bronzes.  But I learned a lot and have a decent library

I would like to repeat what others have said, just for emphasis. Just because a seller lists a coin for a very high price does not mean that the coin is worth what they are asking. It also does not mean that they are actually selling any coins at that price. (hopefully not). Etsy is probably the worst place on the web to buy coins. For every legitimate seller, there are hundreds of scammers and thieves who are hoping to make a big score off some unknowing newcomer. My advice: stay away from Etsy and other similar places when looking for coins to buy, or when trying to determine the true value of your coins. Use patience, and do some diligent research before trying to buy or sell anything. The coins posted above would be fun pocket change finds, considering that they have been around for more than half a century, but honestly, they are only worth face value. 
And if I haven't already said so, "Welcome to the forum."

Ebay has many fine and upstanding sellers, however there are also many on ebay that are looking to rip off those who are not knowledgeable about coins.   Places like etsy, and facebook to name a couple are completely unregulated and are breeding grounds for some of the slimmest sellers.   I have seen some of the most worthless coins being sold on etsy by sellers asking crazy prices, those sellers are fishing for the biggest sucker they can find.
Also, a seller can ask any price he wants to, it is up to the buyer to be informed about what he is buying in order to protect against these rip-off artists.   When you are looking at a site like ebay pay no attention to the asking price unless you know the seller, instead search by sold listings.   Using the sold prices is a far better look at what the true value is for most coins, I say most because there are always exceptions.

I agree with others I just see MD. This can be one of the more challenging thing for newer collectors to learn the difference between MD and die doubling. Some are blatantly obvious, and some are more nuanced like added thickness for example. You were given some great resources. At some point I’m going to make a short video on this, but haven’t gotten around to it. I think it would help a lot of new collectors to get a thorough explanation with visual examples. 

Kudos to NGC for this. They certainly didn’t have to do this for free given it may not have originally been noted. That is customer service at its finest. 

Kudos to NGC for this. They certainly didn’t have to do this for free given it may not have originally been noted. That is customer service at its finest. 

I agree with others I just see MD. This can be one of the more challenging thing for newer collectors to learn the difference between MD and die doubling. Some are blatantly obvious, and some are more nuanced like added thickness for example. You were given some great resources. At some point I’m going to make a short video on this, but haven’t gotten around to it. I think it would help a lot of new collectors to get a thorough explanation with visual examples. 

I agree with others I just see MD. This can be one of the more challenging thing for newer collectors to learn the difference between MD and die doubling. Some are blatantly obvious, and some are more nuanced like added thickness for example. You were given some great resources. At some point I’m going to make a short video on this, but haven’t gotten around to it. I think it would help a lot of new collectors to get a thorough explanation with visual examples. 

Bill - I am guessing that this is referencing back to your questions about value and grading.  Since you are posting several coins, I will speak generally.  Modern coins (pre 1933) are usually not worth the cost of grading (when memberships, shipping, etc. are factored) unless they are
1 - Super rare or a key date
2 - In Mint State condition (under magnification) 
The coins you have  posted here (and in the other threads) are in general circulated condition.  There is certainly nothing wrong with starting your collection with these coins and organizing them by date.  However, these would not be worth sending-in for grading.  The juice is not worth the squeeze.  
I would go to eBay and look at graded examples and compare them to yours to start to build your "coin eyes".  The nickel is a great coin to buy as a 1960s example in graded shape (MS65-66 etc) and use it as an in-hand reference.  When you have an in-hand "blazer" to compare, you can quickly see that yours may not be worth the cost. This will also give you a feel for the price of graded nickels, and you can counter balance this with the grading fees. 

Go here: http://www.vamworld.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2647
...or search the NGC site for a similar explanation.

Another good explanation of MD and the characteristics of true doubling.  
https://www.doubleddie.com/144801.html
Https://www.doubleddie.com/58222.html
 
 

It is actually very simple, notice how the doubling on your coin is lower in relief and flat shelf like.  That is strike doubling, on a true doubled die the doubling will be at or almost at the same height.   Read the links provided above, and as you are new before you start collecting you need to educate yourself on the process of how coins are made.   When you have the knowledge of how a coin is made you will not have to guess if you have found a doubled die coin.   In addition to the links above here is a great visual that clearly shows the differences between a doubled die and the common worthless strike doubling.
 

The only potential candidate would be the 86-O. These pictures I have a feeling are deceiving. Can you post more of that coin without any editing? Based on these it would go AU, and worth $250-$400 or so depending on grade. However I can’t see if there is cleaning or can’t see fine detail well at all in these pics. 

...me thinks it could have an ex-ratzie pedigree....

Anyone ever seen a cameo like this one?

Well I got ahold of ngc and there fixing it for free I call this a big win 

The only potential candidate would be the 86-O. These pictures I have a feeling are deceiving. Can you post more of that coin without any editing? Based on these it would go AU, and worth $250-$400 or so depending on grade. However I can’t see if there is cleaning or can’t see fine detail well at all in these pics. 

Good on you for getting a bunch of coins that a lot of others got as well in an oversupplied market. I don’t have any desire to get even one, but don’t feel special you got 30. Go to any coin show and you can buy hundreds both in OGP and graded. The stupid things are everywhere. 
As Justbob and I asked where is this article from NGC stating they discovered this coin as you said in your post? The one you claim was actually yours?
@LISA B you may want to be aware of this post. 

Not to mention the “wetting of the spacesuit” happened during Shepard’s Mercury suborbital flight countdown, and not on Shepard’s Apollo 14 flight at all. The depicted astronaut is in an Apollo 11 moon walking suit, and not in ANY flight suit Alan Shepard ever wore. The backpack (PLSS) on Apollo 14 moon suits comes waaaay higher up along the back of the helmet. 11’s single EVA was a couple of hours. 14 had TWO EVA’s, each of which was multiple times the length of 11’s single one. 

10000000%

Keeping in mind that when I have been flying the planes I have it has been under perfect weather conditions, and under those conditions flying is not really all that difficult.   Much like driving a car you look to the horizon to keep yourself flying straight and level just glancing at the gages every now and then, it really is very cathartic for me.   Now the takeoff and landing are the difficult parts, both of those can be nerve racking even in the best of weather.   I guess I just really love to be in the air; flying, hot air balloon, sky diving, and repelling are all a blast.

He looks like a bad . The viet cong didn’t want to mess with that dude 😂

I think he legitimately thinks that die crack was part of the intended design to signify the bathroom incident. But that happened before takeoff and evaporated in the high oxygen environment almost immediately. It wasn’t running down his leg on the moon 😂. But to him that die crack is intentional