Woods020

Here is another long one for you, but this excerpt from Wikipedia is probably worth a read for you. I’m guessing this is your amusement/social life? In Internet slang, a troll is a person who starts flame wars or intentionally upsets people on the Internet by posting inflammatory and digressive,[1] extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the intent of provoking readers into displaying emotional responses[2] and normalizing tangential discussion,[3] either for the troll's amusement, or to achieve a specific result such as disrupting a rival's online activities or manipulating a political process.

Mod, I am not wasting time or energy trying to start an argument. And I partially agree in that anyone who has been on this forum for any amount of time recently, when you weren’t suspended, realizes not to take you seriously. Here is my rub. Suppose this is a new collector since this is a newbie forum. They post a question that is important to them, even if the more experienced collectors roll their eyes. Everyone has to start somewhere and this is a complex and costly hobby so mistakes are common and costly. So this new collector posts a question to a forum that carries the NGC name which leads them to believe this is a reputable place to get advice. They don’t know you, don’t know enough to know a joke from real advice, and take that at face value. If you want to drive people away from a hobby, let them get burned by what is supposed to be experts. And while I don’t collect for profit, I think everyone on this forum has a vested interest in protecting the hobby. All I’m saying is don’t assume a new collector who asks a questions knows enough to discern joke from reality. Joking is fine just make sure they know that. That is all I’m asking. I’ve been at this for less than a year now, and have asked some very dumb questions I now realize. And I’ve made mistakes that I won’t make again. New collectors have enough pitfalls without being lead astray.

This should shake things up

What roll do you sneak 3 cent silvers in? I sincerely hope that most of us newbies know you are joking when you give advice. I would hope you would feel pretty bad if someone took if for real advice and ruined a coin they spent their money and time to acquire. Joking is all well and good, and I am by no means an authority on this hobby. However, make sure you qualify your jokes and sarcasm as just that, because those new to the hobby are totally at a loss and see this forum as a source of sage advice.

Thanks James. Everything I have read is reflecting the same. They really showed no mercy on these dies. I was mainly curious on if die clashes were viewed positively, negatively, or neutral by the collecting community. It seems it has no bearing on grade or desirability from the answers here. Much appreciated everyone!

Another one I picked up earlier in the week. Trying to make a run at a respectable PCGS registry set.

A few new additions I picked up on David Lawrence auction this week.

It a cheap digital camera on my computer. I am sure there is a way to fix that, but my question is really more general. I realize the pictures included aren't sufficient for a grading opinion. I simply added it as an example, albeit a poorly photographed and inverted one. I am more curious how I should think about older coinage where die clashes were common. Is this good, bad, doesn't factor one way or another, etc...

The camera I used to snap the pictures inverts the image.

I picked up an 1862 Seated Dime today, and the reason I ended up buying it was it has very prominent die clashing. For me this adds character, and tells a story of how early minting processes have vastly improved over time. However, my question is how does this affect grading? Is it viewed similar to a weak strike, disregarded and considered a normal component of early coinage, etc... I am attaching pictures of the reference coin that sparked the question, but they are not the best. There are die clashes on both obverse and reverse, with the obverse having multiple areas covering the majority.

You will need to add a clear picture of the whole coin front and back

Please post a clear picture of the whole coin front and back. You probably won’t get a good answer until you do that.

Even a broken clock gets it right twice a day right? In all honesty I’ve been at the hobby for about 6 months seriously now, and I have learned a ton from people here. For all of us newbies I appreciate those of you that are experienced that have patience and give real advice. Many on here seem to worry more about being witty or cocky than growing the hobby. I always enjoy seeing yours and Quintus Arrius’ responses on here.

If you aren’t aware, VAM world has a nice listing by date with great diagnostic details and pictures. Probably a VAM 25, but check. http://ec2-13-58-222-16.us-east-2.compute.amazonaws.com/wiki/Morgan_VAMs_by_Date Also despite all the VAM listings, only a small portion are ackowledged by the the third party graders. If that is a 25, as I suspect, then I don’t think PCGS or NGC recognize it. You can double check. The only VAM that is really sought after for that year/mint is VAM 4, rusty fish hook.

I am newish, so more experienced collectors may have a better explanation. However it looks like a rim fin that has folded over. This is something I learned from a post here as well asking about a similar issue with a Mercury dime. Maybe research rim fins and see if that looks like the coin you have.

I’m newish so others will be more accurate. But to take a stab at testing what I’m learning, I would say this is roughly a Fine (12). BUT there appears to be damage (the chunk missing out of the leg). So that detracts.

Being born and raised in Alabama, I thought it fitting that one of my nicer coin purchases be an Alabama commemorative. Happy to bring one of the better examples to it’s state of reference.

Seems like it may hold value as a Rorschach coin? What does it say that one member saw a bear cub and one saw a disrobed Venus de milo? Any psychologist in the forum? 😂

I just did some reading on rim finning. Thanks for steering me in the right direction.

It is almost as if there was an extra layer that is not adhered around the edge. I am relatively new to this so I am sure I am not describing it properly, but it wasn't something I have seen so far.

I picked up a 1942-S Mercury Dime today, and as I was giving it a once over while putting it in a 2x2 I noticed what initially appeared to be material peeling around the majority of the reverse around the rim. Some areas look like cuds, and others are peeling and flaking it seems. I did notice a die break on the obverse that is probably unrelated. What is your opinion on what is going on here? I tried to get the best pictures possible, but I am learning that light reflects off the rim in a way that makes it harder than the interior of the coin.

Accidental duplicate post

My guess is this was covered with a piece of tape at some point, but wanted to ask others.

My guess is this was covered with a piece of tape at some point, but wanted to ask others.

I would say I am your target audience (relatively new collector), and would greatly appreciate something like this. I’ve spent hours trying to definitively get the nuances of machine doubling and true doubling in the hub process, and there is little guidance. Several pictures of extreme examples exist, but the nuanced ones still are a struggle. Some of the recognized DDs look just like machine doubling to me. And vice versa. So I would greatly appreciate resources and would put the time in to use them. One thing I think that would really be helpful in the beginning is an explanation of what causes true DDs and what causes machine doubling. I searched for a long time and still haven’t found a great resource. It would help from the get go to understand Exactly what caused the error, and then it would be easier to understand what you are looking at/for.