Sandon

It would be preferable for you to ask about one coin per topic and post better cropped photos of the coins. The only coin you have posted with which I am familiar is the 2015 one-half ounce gold American Eagle bullion coin, which if genuine would be worth approximately its current gold value of $950 to $975. (The price of gold changes daily; see U.S. Gold Coin Melt Values | Gold Coin Prices | NGC Coin Melt Value.) There are worthless base metal counterfeits of these coins being produced in Asia, and I can't tell from your photos whether the coin is genuine. You should take the coin to a legitimate coin or bullion dealer, who would buy it if it is of the correct weight and otherwise is established to be genuine.

The photos are too blurry to see whether the coin shows any form of doubling. A doubled die exhibits crisp, clear doubling that is usually at about the same level as the primary image and exhibits notching at points between the two images. You may wish to compare your coin carefully with the photos of the known (and minor) 1972-D doubled die varieties (VP-001 and VP-002) on NGC VarietyPlus at Lincoln Cents, Memorial Reverse (1959-2008) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). There may be additional varieties listed on doubleddie.com and varietyvista.com.

When you post photos of coins on this site, please post clear, cropped photos that to the greatest extent possible show only the coin about which you have a question and not mostly the surface on which the coin is sitting. Based on what I can see after magnifying the obverse photo, the coin is clearly scratched, likely by a coin wrapping machine, which would have been wrapping a roll "dead center" relative to the coin. It appears that in some areas the scratch went deep enough to remove the copper plating from this cent and expose the underlying zinc core. This is not what something that was impressed into the coin as it was struck, known as a "strikethrough", looks like. Contrary to what you may have seen on the internet, it is extremely uncommon to find significant mint errors in circulation. (Most that leave the mint are intercepted by personnel at banks and other coin distributors and sold to coin dealers.) In 52 years of collecting coins and searching through change, all I've found are a blank cent planchet and two "broadstruck" quarters, worth perhaps a few dollars each. Only one collector I know has ever found a significant error. He is a man who is now about eighty and had been collecting and searching for decades who received an uncirculated cent that had been overstruck by nickel dies at a grocery store a few years ago. For every legitimate error, there are thousands of damaged coins. To learn what legitimate mint errors look like and how they are made, see the following resources: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) and other topics that are shown when "mint errors" is entered in the search bar on the NGC home page. For a comprehensive listing and description of mint errors, see the site error-ref.com.

1845 Liberty Seated half dollar, PCGS graded XF 45:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. U.S. five cent pieces, commonly known as "nickels", are composed of an alloy of 75% copper, 25% nickel. The 2012-P nickel with a reddish color was buried in the ground or otherwise exposed to environmental conditions that caused a chemical reaction that resulted in this discoloration, commonly referred to as "corrosion". This appearance is commonly encountered by those familiar with copper-nickel coins, especially older ones. Such coins are undesirable to knowledgeable collectors. The coin is worth its face value of five cents. Only an ignorant person would pay a premium for it, and this would be based on your misrepresentation that it is somehow worth a premium. Don't do it!

@AcesKings--A coin posted on this topic should be of either the same date or the same type as the one that preceded it, not just the same metal. Unfortunately, the rules were stated on the initial post 320 pages ago and occasionally thereafter.

As a new collector, you may benefit from the print and online resources referred to in the following forum topics:

1907 "No Motto" "Indian" Head eagle, AU details, rim dings, presently uncertified, saved by my grandparents from circulation:

Although I would have graded this coin Choice Extremely Fine (XF 45) by the standards I learned decades ago, a grading service would likely grade it in the AU range (50, 53, or even 55) today. The final grade might depend on the amount of luster on the coin and other factors I can't see from the photos.

Your situation is a good example of why it is important to learn about the coins you want to collect, their grading, and what they are supposed to look like before you spend money buying them. This is especially true if you are buying uncertified coins. Your 1835 Capped Bust half dollar has been harshly "cleaned" and has high point wear. If you sent it to a grading service, the best grade you could hope for is "AU Details, Cleaned". NGC might classify the coin as having an "altered surface" and not encapsulate it. Regarding coins that have been "cleaned"--really, coins whose surfaces have been affected by abrasives and/or chemicals--see my Custom Registry Set entitled "Characteristics of Cleaned Coins", which depicts and describes certified coins from my own collection that were "details" graded as "cleaned" or in a few cases were "straight" graded but in my experienced opinion were "cleaned". Characteristics of "Cleaned" Coins - Custom Set (collectors-society.com). You can also use the links shown on the pages depicting the individual coins to link into my competitive sets, which include "straight" graded pieces for comparison. There is a limit to what you can see in photographs, but it's a start. You also need to distinguish between striking characteristics and circulation wear. Capped Bust, lettered edge half dollars were struck on hand operated screw presses in "open" collars with dies prepared from individual punches for the devices, letters, numbers and stars. Many are weakly struck or struck from worn or improperly prepared dies that don't show such details as the star centers even on uncirculated, uncleaned coins such as that shown in the "Heartland Collection" piece in your initial post. The introduction late in 1836 of "hubbed" dies, close collars and steam powered presses for the Capped Bust, reeded edge half dollars resulted in a more consistent product, but striking characteristics and die wear can cause coins to vary widely in appearance to this day. You should endeavor to attend coin shows and other venues where you can study authenticated, professionally graded examples of these coins and speak with experienced collectors and dealers. It's a time-consuming process, but it is also enjoyable and worthwhile.

@jesbroken--I agree with @Coinbuf that your half cent question should have been posted as a new topic, not as a post on this thread of photos of copper coins. However, the likely answer to your question is that a key date 1811 half cent has a market value that is multiples of that of an 1810 in equivalent grade, and even well-worn 1811s are considered worth submitting to TPGS, unlike 1810s. Key date coins often have much higher certified populations than more common dates in the same series.

1883 Indian cent, NGC graded PF 65 RB:

Your 1851 large cent is considered a major variety and as such listed in the "Red Book" and most coin price guides as the "1851, 51 over 81" or "1851/81" variety. (NGC calls it 1851/INV 18.) Although there are now over 40 known die varieties of 1851 large cents, identified by most of the numbers N1 through N45, only the 1851/81 (N3 only) is distinctive enough to be separately listed and priced in these major guides. (Howard R. Newcomb listed 34 varieties in his United States Copper Cents 1816-1857, originally published in 1944, with a number of new discoveries added and several original varieties delisted since.) This variety was apparently created when the punch used to punch the date into the obverse die was partly punched in upside down and then corrected without the underlying inverted "18", appearing as "81", being completely effaced. (On examples of N3 struck once the dies had become worn, the inverted date feature may not show, and NGC will not classify these as "18/INV 18.) Based on the photos, your coin does appear to be the 1851/81 (N3, early die state) variety, not an N4 (repunched date) as suggested by @powermad5000. It shows the correct date characteristics, including the underlying inverted date, and the die scratches beneath Liberty's bun and elsewhere as described by Newcomb. Compare the photos on NGC VarietyPlus at Braided Hair Cents (1839-1857) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). Although thousands of pieces of this variety are believed to exist, it is popular and commands a premium. Based on the photos, I would grade it Ch. XF (45), but some might grade it AU. Coin World currently lists retail prices for it of $275 in XF 40 and $425 in AU 50, as compared to $73 and $150 for a "regular" 1851 in these respective grades. In my opinion, it is neither cost effective nor usually desirable to submit coins of this value to grading services, especially if you are not a "registry set" collector. Moreover, NGC charges an additional $18 to attribute this variety. I would place it in an appropriate holder, and above all, do not hold it in your bare hands as shown in your photos.

A genuine Morgan dollar is only .900 fine silver, so this isn't possible. Your photos are only of one side and are too blurry to make an informed judgment about the coin, but it doesn't look right. (Do you warrant its authenticity?) The Guidelines with which you haven't complied provide as follows: If selling directly from here, you must list specific items with purchase prices. It is acceptable to bulk price, and/or to note that package discounts may be available, but you must list a starting price that you WILL sell for (links to auction sites like eBay are an exception). Include pictures showing the grade, or at least describe the grade for offered items. Include estimated shipping costs, times, and methods. Include acceptable forms of payment. I strongly recommend that you learn something about coins before you list uncertified coins for sale on this forum.

The fine details of each side of this piece, as well as its overall appearance, are wrong for both the Trade dollar obverse and the Seated dollar reverse. Note, for example, the crudeness and fatness of the figure of Liberty on the Trade dollar obverse as compared to that of the genuine coin depicted by @EagleRJO. It's probably just a muling of modern counterfeit dies for a Trade dollar obverse and a Seated dollar reverse.

@AdamWL-- This is why the CAC sticker isn't being recognized, which started this topic in the first place.

In my 52 years as a coin collector, I have never heard of a "large day D". Presumably, you mean either a "large date" or a "large D"; however, 1968-D cents are only known to exist with one date size and one style of mint mark. (At that time, mint marks were still punched into each die by hand, so they may vary in location, angle or be heavily or lightly punched.) Based on your photos, both of your 1968-D Lincoln cents are normal circulated examples and have no collector value. There are many ignorant and fraudulent sellers on the internet peddling non-existent 'varieties" like this and minor anomalies or damaged coins as "mint errors", as well as the usual plethora of counterfeit, altered, impaired, and overgraded coins. As a new collector, you need to educate yourself to avoid being taken advantage of by them. Please refer to the following forum topics for legitimate print and online resources worthy of your study: The most widely collected die varieties are listed in the "Red Book" and in price guides referred to in these topics. Additional ones are listed and depicted in NGC VarietyPlus, which includes all of the varieties that NGC will attribute. Countries | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). More obscure but legitimate ones are included on the Variety Vista site, Variety Vista Home, and on doubleddie.com. View any purported variety that doesn't appear on these sites as highly suspect.

As you had already posted a topic about this supposedly new variety, it was unnecessary to post a new topic about the same thing. As I explained in my response to your Personal Message to me, you need to explain in words just what characteristics of the one coin you see as being "smaller" than the others, as none of your photos makes this evident. I'll make a conjecture about what you might be seeing, at least on the obverse. The obverse master Lincoln cent die had reportedly been in use since 1919. Over decades of use to make the "master hubs" from which "working hubs" and ultimately coinage dies are made, the devices (Lincoln's bust) and lettering gradually became shallower and more spread out. The master die wasn't replaced until the commencement of coinage in 1969. (Coins dated 1967-68 often appear to have the motto "IN GOD WE TRUST" against the rim, about which we have answered inquiries on this forum.) Perhaps the coinage of over 2.5 billion cents between the two mints in 1961 necessitated the creation of more than one master hub, resulting in some minute stages in the degeneration of the master die, and the "small variety" came from a die that had ultimately been prepared from an earlier master hub. The difference is so minute that it would not be of interest to the vast majority of variety collectors, assuming that it is rare by any rational standard, which it is likely not, as a number of working dies would have likely resulted from each hub. Perhaps @RWB can comment on the validity of my conjecture, or the lack thereof. The reverse master die had only been in use since 1959, so the above conjecture wouldn't apply to any reverse differences, which I can't see anyway.

You misunderstood. I said the coin "wouldn't be worth the cost of third-party grading." An unimpaired VF lists $110 in the NGC Price Guide, $115 in Coin World. A dealer selling it in a grading service holder marked "cleaned" might reasonably ask $75. The dealer might pay $35-$40 for it as a hard to sell item. Assuming that you already have a paid membership with submission privileges, NGC would charge a $23 "Economy" (lowest possible for this coin) tier, plus a $10 per order processing fee, plus a minimum $28 return shipping fee, for a total of $61, not including your own shipping cost. (Review the topics under the "Submit" tab on the NGC home page, www.ngccoin.com.) PCGS (pcgs.com) fees are similar. ANACS (anacs.com) costs somewhat less and doesn't charge a membership fee, but the coin isn't worth their cost either. Until you learn to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself, it would be unwise for you to send coins to grading services. We can point out the essential print and online resources to help you learn. You should also examine as many third-party graded coins as you can and speak to experienced collectors and dealers. You should place this coin in a protective hard plastic holder or capsule, many of which will enable you to see its lettered edge, which would be at least partly obscured by a grading service holder.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your 1827 Capped Bust (not Draped Bust, these being the types dated 1796-1807) half dollar has details in the Very Fine range, but its unnaturally light gray color and the hairlining that I can see in the photos indicate that a grading service would likely "details" grade it as having been "cleaned". In my opinion, it wouldn't be worth the cost of third-party grading. It is important for you to learn when a coin will likely be regarded as "cleaned" or otherwise impaired, especially if you intend to purchase uncertified coins. Some may still be worthwhile for an appropriate discount. I created a "Custom" NGC Registry Set depicting the certified coins in my collection that were described as "cleaned" and attempt to explain what to look for. Characteristics of "Cleaned" Coins - Custom Set (collectors-society.com). Compare their appearance with the early half dollars that were numerically graded in my regular set, which also includes the "cleaned" and otherwise impaired certified pieces. Set Details | NGC Registry | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Notwithstanding the disinformation you may have seen on the internet, these minor anomalies are regarded as the result of quality control issues, not as mint errors. They are very common and have no value to knowledgeable collectors. Grading services will not attribute them but would keep your attribution fee, as well as your grading and processing fees and shipping costs to certify a circulated 1958-D cent worth a few cents. To learn how to identify and understand legitimate mint errors, which are seldom found in circulation, see resources such as the following: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) and other topics that are shown when "mint errors" is entered in the search bar on the NGC home page. For a comprehensive listing and description of mint errors, see error-ref.com.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. The "NGC Registry" forum is for questions about the Registry, which is for coins that have already been certified. Your question should have been posted to the "Ask NGC/NCS forum. However, you can find detailed instructions for how to submit coins to NGC by reviewing the topics under the "Submit" tab at the top of the NGC home page (ngccoin.com), especially the first three topics, "How to Submit", "Coins We Grade & Policies", and "Services and Fees". The fourth topic includes fillable submission forms. You should only submit a coin to a grading service if you have sufficient knowledge to estimate the grade and value of the coin yourself so that it will be worthwhile to incur the fees and costs involved. Otherwise, it would be wise to consult with an established dealer or experienced collector first. Some NGC member dealers can also submit coins for you. See Find Coin Shops & Dealers | Coin Dealer Locator | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Sorry, but what you perceive as a "D" is the wrong shape, too weak given the strength of the other features of the coin, and probably too close to the olive branch as well. Compare it to photos of genuine 1916-D dime reverses such as this one from the NGC Coin Explorer:

I see no meaningful differences in the details of these coins. Any differences in the thickness or strength in the lettering or other features are explainable by die wear or die polishing combined with circulation wear on the coins. This would not be indicative of die varieties or mint errors. If you remain convinced that there are different varieties of 1961-D cents, you should examine a number of uncirculated examples of them, rolls of which should still be available from some dealers.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your 1950-S quarter doesn't appear to be the 1950-S/D FS-601 variety, as it doesn't show any trace of the left side of the underlying "D". The blob on the right side of the "S" is probably a die chip. Compare it to the NGC VarietyPlus photo of an uncirculated example of this variety: Your coin certainly isn't a D over S, which is a D with traces of an underlying "S".