Sandon

There is no specific registry set category for this so-called "short set", for which some dealer who had a number of these later dates probably arranged with NGC to create a special multi-coin holder for a bulk submission. The only applicable registry set category is for the full set, circulation issue. Indian Head Quarter Eagles 1908-1929, Circulation Issue Sets | NGC Registry | NGC (ngccoin.com). If you've entered the serial numbers for each of the five coins into your coin list, you can use it to create a partial registry set.

I think that this coin should be examined in-person by an expert. It would cost quite a bit to send it to a grading service, probably more than the $50 that a Jefferson nickel brockage is listed in the 2023 Redbook. If there is a coin show in your area, you might want to show it to a dealer who is familiar with mint errors. Another option would be to send it for examination by an organization like CONECA. CONECA (conecaonline.org). See the "Coin Examinations" and "Coin Attributions" pages.

@Shygirl2020!--Please post questions about your coins as new topics. This topic is for print and online books, publications and other resources to educate new collectors. Most forum members won't see your post here. However, if you had referred to these resources, you would know that your circulated 1945-D Lincoln cents are worth 5 cents apiece at retail. The other coin appears to have been squeezed against another coin in a vice and is not a mint error.

It is illegal to melt them. Therefore, there is no legitimate buyer for them at above face value, other than collectors.

This 1982-D cent is a small date. I can see some small plating "bubbles", which identify it as copper plated zinc, as are virtually all 1982-D small date cents.

I'm not sure that this coin is damaged, as the "1" and top of the "9" are weak. This could be the result of foreign matter filling these portions of the die.

All four coins are large dates. I'm giving you the correct answer. What would the "right" one be?

The bar above the "zero" and possibly some of the other blobs near the rim of this 1960-D nickel are die chips, which are also sometimes referred to as "rim cuds". They are probably too small to be classified as full-fledged "cuds." These types of die chips are very common on U.S. coins of the 1950s and early 1960s, and there was once a fad of collecting some of them, but they are too common to have ever been worth much and carry little or no premium today. See the following topic for a similar phenomenon on Lincoln cents of that era:

The raised, irregular areas on the obverse of this well-worn 1961-D nickel are likely metal solder or other foreign matter that someone placed on the coin. It appears that the coin was once mounted on (attached to) another object.

The deformity above the letters "ST" on the obverse is just post-mint damage commonly referred to as a "rim ding" or dent. Notice the damage to the tops of the letters, which would have occurred after the coin was struck. The hit was apparently hard enough to cause the corresponding outward deformity above "TE" on the reverse.

Yes, this would be classified as a "cud", a type of "defective die" error resulting from a piece having broken out near the edge of the obverse die. It's a relatively small one. The 2023 edition (now last year's) "Red Book" generically lists this type of error on a Jefferson nickel at $15. This one might go for less, but it's still an interesting find.

I've never heard of anyone being limited to ten posts or replies per day. How were you informed of this? To my knowledge, paid NGC memberships are only required if you want to submit coins for grading.

What do you mean by a "short set"? A full set of Indian head quarter eagles (two and a half dollar gold pieces) consists of only 15 pieces dated between 1908 and 1929, with no pieces issued dated from 1916 through 1924. Only the "key" 1911-D sells for a substantial premium in all grades.

A 1943-D wartime composition five cent piece isn't rare, with or without die cracks. Nearly 15.3 million were minted. Large numbers of uncirculated rolls were saved, as well as large numbers of circulated pieces. Only Gem Uncirculated (MS 67 or better) pieces with 5 or 6 full steps have NGC Price Guide values over $100. The posted coin appears to be AU or low-end mint state and not to have quite five full steps. Die cracks are quite common on both older and modern U.S. coins and generally worth little no premium to knowledgeable collectors. They are indicative of worn dies. The die crack on Jefferson's coat isn't "severe".

Your question would be better phrased as, "What is the difference between mechanical doubling (also known as machine doubling and strike doubling) and die doubling"? NGC has a good article describing this difference at Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com). The significance of the difference is that a coin struck from a doubled die may be worth a premium, especially if it is prominent enough to be popular with collectors, whereas a coin with mechanical doubling isn't worth a premium to a knowledgeable collector. Another form of "worthless doubling" is die deterioration doubling, which presents itself as a weak or ghostly secondary image due to a worn and eroded die.

The "Modern" tier includes all U.S. or world coins struck 1965 to present and with a market value of no more than $3,000, except for patterns and die trials. See NGC Services and Fees | NGC (ngccoin.com). There is no exclusion for gold coins. Therefore, you should be able to submit gold American Eagle (first issued in 1986) and American Buffalo (first issued in 2006) bullion coins under the "Modern" tier, except for the very few that are worth well over $3,000, such as the 2020-W proof with privy mark $50. I don't know what @emabigpiglet is talking about. The date 1954 has nothing to do with any NGC grading tier, nor is there a tier dedicated to proof coins.

Die chips like this that appeared to clog or create new elements between numerals and letters were very common on U.S. coins of the 1950s and early 1960s. This led to a fad of collecting so called "BIE" errors (see topic below) and other anomalies caused by die chips for a time. They didn't command much of a premium then and seldom bring any now.

The closest type of mint error to which your 1944-S cent bears any resemblance would be a "strikethrough" resulting from a foreign object lying on the reverse die or planchet as the coin was being struck. The only other possibility of which I can think would be a major planchet flaw. The problem with both of these ideas is that most of the lettering beneath the depressed area and the affected wheat stalk is visible, some of it bent along with the depression. This indicates that the coin had already been struck when the depression was created. This constitutes post-mint damage, not a mint error. The other small depressions and marks on this heavily circulated coin are also consistent with damage, not a mint error.

The first thing you need to understand about mint errors is that significant ones rarely turn up in circulation. Those that escape the inspection process at the mint are usually intercepted by personnel at counting houses and banks and sold to coin dealers. To be a mint error, the anomaly must have occurred during the minting process. For every actual mint error of any significance that we see, we see dozens, if not hundreds, of damaged and altered coins. The nickel whose photos you posted may have been struck through "grease" or other foreign matter on the obverse die. However, I'm concerned about the unusual shininess of the obverse, which may be indicative of exposure of the coin to some sort of buffing wheel or other post-mint treatment. It doesn't resemble the examples of this type of error shown on error-ref.com. Search Results for “struck through grease” (error-ref.com). I'll let some of the other forum members give their opinions. To learn about the basic types of mint errors, see the following articles on the NGC website: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) Error-ref.com provides comprehensive information about mint errors for those who understand the basics. If you are a new collector, it is advisable to learn more basic information about U.S. coins before focusing on mint errors or die varieties, which have historically been a specialty of some more advanced collectors. See the following topic for essential print and online resources:

The word is "etiquette". It is generally better to ask about only one coin per topic, with the topic title identifying the coin by issue or question. For more complete guidance on posting questions on this forum, please review the following topic:

Neither the NGC World Coin Price Guide nor my 2010 edition of the Standard Catalog of World Coins list a 1907 20 centime piece, nor a 1904, 1905 or 1906. French Indo-China 20 Cents KM 10 Prices & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com) (Note the unevenness in the date numerals of the purported 1907.) Both the 1907 and 1909 dated coins are almost certainly counterfeits. The weight of genuine 1898-1916 issues would be 5.4 grams. Since about 2005 large numbers of counterfeit coins of many countries and eras have been produced in and exported from mainland China. I understand that Chinese law permits the reproduction of all coins except for those issued by China since 1949. If you obtained these pieces in recent years, they may be of this recent vintage. While most of these counterfeits are base metal, it is not all that unusual for counterfeits to imitate the composition of genuine pieces, especially if the genuine ones have numismatic value well in excess of their bullion value, as some of these Indo-China pieces do. @Fenntucky Mike--You are correct that the "0.835" or "0.680" on the various genuine issues refers to the fineness, not the weight, which is the portion stated in grams. These coins were likely used in trade in other portions of Asia, and the legends aided in the valuation of the coins in local currency. Similarly, the U.S. trade dollar states its weight and fineness of "420 grains, 900 fine." I have corrected my previous post.

I assume that what you mean to ask is how to tell a proof striking from a circulation striking in the case of a 1988 Mexican 500 pesos piece. The term "proof" refers to the method of manufacture of a coin, not its condition. Typically, a modern proof coin has mirror fields, frequently contrasting with frosted devices, whereas an uncirculated example of a coin made for circulation typically has a continuous frosty or flat luster and is seldom mirrorlike. Proof coins are usually better detailed than coins made for circulation, as they are usually struck multiple times on special presses. They also usually receive special, separate handling and so avoid the marks and abrasions usually found on uncirculated coins made for circulation, which are ejected from the press onto piles of other coins and then packed into bags of hundreds or thousands of coins. The coin in your photos has the dull, flat luster typical of a coin made for circulation. I checked this issue in the Standard Catalog of World Coins and noted that while the circulation issue has a mintage of 230,000,000 pieces, only two proof strikings are known. The NGC World Coin Price Guide has the following photos of one of these proofs: The mirror fields and frosted devices of this coin are typical of a proof. Your coin is a circulation strike.

Gold dollars and quarter eagles, including circulated common dates, have always gone for a significantly higher premium over their gold value than the higher denominations. Both the NGC Price Guide and the current CPG Coin & Currency Market Review show higher prices for these quarter eagles in circulated grades than Coin World's. I've been a collector for over 52 years. It's really important to learn about coins before you spend substantial amounts of money on them, especially on uncertified pieces. There is an expression from before my time, "buy the book before the coin". It's still true, except that today you can do at least some of your research online. You can also learn from experienced coin collectors and dealers at such venues as coin shows and coin club meetings.

If you develop grading skills yourself, you can evaluate the coin in the holder in accordance with your own educated judgment and tastes and make your own decision as to its grade and value to you without regard to which service graded it.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. The "Coin Marketplace" forum is for topics offering to sell or buy coins. If you are trying to show off this coin that you just purchased at the ANA convention rather than trying to sell it, the best place to post it would be on the "Post Your Most Recent Acquisition--U.S." topic on the "U.S., World and Ancient Coins" forum. It will receive more attention there from interested forum members. Here is a link to this topic: