• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Sandon

Member: Seasoned Veteran
  • Posts

    3,672
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    139

Everything posted by Sandon

  1. 1867 Liberty Seated dime, PCGS certified PR 62, but of the F-102 die variety that is said by Fortin and Greer to exist only as a circulation strike:
  2. 1891-CC half eagle, presently uncertified, XF to AU details, perhaps "cleaned": @Mike Meenderink --As I understand it, although a gold coin posted on this topic may be followed by any other gold coin, a non-gold coin that follows a gold coin must have the same date as that gold coin, which in this case would be 1924, the date of the double eagle posted before your comments on previously posted coins.
  3. Although coins of this type can be difficult to grade due to striking peculiarities, I think that this coin should be graded in the mid to upper VF range (25 to 30) rather than XF. The ANA grading guide (7th ed. 2013) states that to grade XF 40, on the obverse "[l]ight wear extends from forehead to below LI in LIBERTY. The curls near the ear are worn but clearly defined". (Emphasis added.) For the reverse, an XF 40 will display "[s]light wear on bow and most of the leaves. Three-quarters of ribbing shows in leaves." (Emphasis added.) This 1814 plain 4 Classic Head large cent shows little detail in the curls near the ear and no more than half the ribbing in the leaves. Here is an 1813 Classic Head large cent that I acquired some years ago and graded XF. Last year NGC graded it XF 40. It exhibits noticeably more detail than the 1814 that is the subject of this topic.
  4. Here is a link to the pertinent website: https://www.cacgrading.com/
  5. I have seen these 1972-73 bags on a few occasions at coin shows offered as low-price items. The mint resumed this practice for a while at some point. I purchased a similar small bag of 1985 cents (Philadelphia mint only) at the Philadelphia mint's gift shop during a visit to the mint that year. The mint did not offer rolls or larger bags of coins of any denomination directly to the public at that time. The mini cent bags were probably intended as souvenirs for visitors to the mint or gifts for children. I don't recall whether the mint sold the 1985 bags by mail order.
  6. Actually, unlike the stickering service, CAC Grading does accept all dollar coins up to the present and other modern coins. See CAC Grading - Coins Accepted for Grading. However, the website also has a notice that they are not accepting new members at this time.
  7. 1852 quarter eagle, presently uncertified, my grade AU:
  8. These coins appear to be uncirculated 40% silver Bicentennial coins, not proofs. I wouldn't send these common coins to any grading service. A few weeks ago, I bought the 40% silver half dollar and dollar from this set, both graded MS 67 by PCGS, for less than $60 for the pair at a local coin show. The same dealer had the quarter in the same grade for $25. I acquired these coins, which were unusually attractive for coins of these types, solely for registry set purposes. Obviously, the grading fees and related costs would exceed the prices I paid for them. I can't see your coins well enough to estimate their grades, but relatively few of these coins grade as high as MS 67 at NGC or PCGS, and CAC grading is expected to be more conservative than they usually are. I don't know why you want to have these coins third-party graded but am sure it wouldn't make any financial sense. At this time, CAC graded coins wouldn't be accepted in any registry, although I understand that CAC intends to create one in the future. If you want them in certified holders, I suggest you buy pieces that have already been certified.
  9. 1847 half eagle, PCGS graded XF45 in old green label holder and appearing to be in the AU range by today's standards:
  10. When you post photos coins about which you have questions, please post clear cropped photos of the full obverse and reverse of each coin, as well as what you think is a pertinent closeup. It is also best to start a new topic for each coin about which you have questions. No, a single mostly filled letter, likely resulting from foreign matter on the die or die wear would not be considered a mint error by a knowledgeable collector, nor would it be attributed as a mint error by NGC or other reputable grading services. It would simply be considered a quality control issue and likely is within the mint's standards for acceptable coins.
  11. There is no answer to your question, as it incorrectly assumes that die varieties and mint errors are each valued as a group. There are both low and higher value pieces in each group. There are literally thousands of different die varieties across all U.S. coin series and dozens of different types of mint errors. (Doubled dies are considered die varieties, notwithstanding that the mint does not intend to create dies that display them.) Only a relatively small group of die varieties, mostly those that are listed in the "Redbook" or other widely available guides tend to have sufficient appeal to most collectors to have any real value. Most others are only of interest to relatively small group of mostly advanced, specialized collectors. Those die varieties that NGC will attribute are listed and mostly illustrated in NGC VarietyPlus. See United States Categories | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com) (U.S. coin varieties). Unlike coins by date and mint, most die varieties (except for the popular ones listed in the "Redbook" and other major guides) sell sporadically, so it is difficult to establish firm market prices for them by grade. Mint errors are especially difficult to value, as no two are alike. Valuation usually depends on how apparent and interesting the error is. Coins that were clearly multiple struck in different positions, struck on planchets intended for other denominations of coins or struck on planchets composed of the wrong metal are examples of those that likely have values of three figures or more. So far all of your questions are about mint errors and die varieties. Do you understand that the vast majority of U.S. coin collectors collect by dates and mints (and a few major varieties) of particular series or by design types and that the collection of mint errors and most die varieties are specialties of smaller groups of mostly advanced collectors? Out of 468 pages, the standard "Redbook" devotes only 4 to mint errors. Do you have and have you studied a recent edition of the "Redbook", officially titled A Guide Book of United States Coins, which is the basic guide to U.S. coins? Do you have and have you studied a grading guide? Without an understanding of the basic information in these books, it is very difficult to grasp the nuances of variety and error collecting. My topic "Resources for New Collectors" to which I've already provided a link, explains how you can obtain these and other basic resources.
  12. Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please review the "Coin Marketplace Guidelines" posted in the following topic on this forum and edit your post so that it complies with those guidelines: Coin Marketplace Guidelines - Coin Marketplace - NGC Coin Collectors Chat Boards
  13. I'm glad to see that activity on this topic has resumed. I've been meaning to image and post some more coins from my Jefferson nickel album but haven't found the time. I purchased for all of $5--a small fraction of the cost of grading-- this 1956 nickel that PCGS graded MS 64 in a dealer's junk slab box a few months ago. Perhaps the submitter erroneously thought it would get a "full steps" designation.
  14. Dealers will usually give you some idea of a coin's value and whether the coin is worth submitting. You may wish to contact the dealer before visiting his shop to determine their willingness to do so and arrange a convenient time. Bear in mind that coin dealers are often busy and may not have the time to look at a large number of pieces at once. Please bear in mind that if the coins you want to show them are pieces you took from pocket change, it is extremely unlikely that you have anything that would be worth submitting to a grading service. I've been collecting coins and checking my and other people's change for over 50 years and have never found anything of such value. The few legitimate mint errors I've found over the years--a blank cent planchet and a couple of broadstruck quarters--would only be worth a few dollars each. You may find the following article by Jeff Garrett, a highly experienced dealer and former president of the American Numismatic Association, informative: Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com). I urge you to read it. The date of a coin is generally irrelevant to whether or not the coin exhibits a mint error. You may be confusing mint errors with die varieties. A mint error is an individual coin that was improperly manufactured in some way. As such, they are not listed by date and mint. A die variety is a coin struck from dies that had some distinctive characteristic, so that every coin struck from those dies shows that characteristic. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com).
  15. NGC has a dealer locater under the "Resources" tab on its home page. Here is a direct link: Find Coin Shops & Dealers | [[DealerLocator.MainSection]] | NGC (ngccoin.com). Any reputable dealer should be able to verify that your 1969-D cent has no premium value. You seem to be under the impression that minor anomalies on coins are valuable mint errors or that valuable mint errors and varieties are regularly found in circulation. This is incorrect, notwithstanding it being frequently stated or implied by various posters on sites such as YouTube. In fact, it is unusual--a once in a lifetime event, if that-- to find any die variety or mint error (two different categories) of any real value to collectors. If you are new to coin collecting, submitting coins to grading services is the last thing you should be doing. You must learn how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins for yourself before you can determine whether your coins have sufficient value to be worth submitting. See the following topics for guidance as to print and online resources to help you in this process: You should also attend coin shows and coin club meetings where you can see a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers.
  16. Welcome to the NGC chat board. Based on your photos, your coin is a normal, lightly circulated 1969-D Lincoln cent, of which over four billion were struck. There is no report of the Denver mint, where these were minted, having struck any with a special finish. Whatever you may see that you think is out of the ordinary, it is almost certainly the result of something that happened to the coin while it was in circulation.
  17. Although SEGS, which I understand was until a few years ago owned and operated by dealer Larry Briggs, is generally regarded as a legitimate grading service, it has never had the reputation or market acceptance of either NGC and PCGS, the "top tier" grading services, or of ANACS and ICG, the "second tier" grading services. NGC would treat the submission of coins in SEGS holders as though the coins had never been third-party graded, and you would have to make your own judgment as to whether NGC would likely award them similar grades and whether they would be worth the cost of submission even if they achieve the same or higher grades. There is also the risk that the coins could be damaged while being removed from their current holders, whether by you or NGC. The NGC "Consent to Remove Coins from Holders" form provides that NGC will not have liability for such damage. Especially, if your SEGS graded coins are relatively low value modern coins or coins whose value is largely related to their precious metal value, I would not consider the expense and risk of having them "regraded" worthwhile in any event.
  18. I don't know why this off-topic discussion of the merits of cats from a year ago has been resumed. I'm sure that the OP doesn't want to see these posts in her e-mail. I would caution anyone who may think ill of cats or those humans who enjoy their presence--one can't really be the "owner" of a cat--to view a 1960s horror film entitled Shadow of the Cat. THE CAT KNOWS!
  19. It is extremely unlikely that this circulated 1936 Canadian cent, which has been improperly "cleaned", is a genuine "dot" cent, of which only three genuine examples are known to exist, all of which were obtained by the late John Jay Pittman (1913-1996) from former Royal Canadian Mint employees. See https://www.pcgs.com/news/rare-canadian-1936-dot-cent; Akers, David, Catalog of The John Jay Pittman Collection: Selected Numismatic Rarities Part One at 14-16 (1997). The photo of the reverse is too small to determine whether this coin actually has a "dot" beneath the date matching that on the authenticated pieces. In any event, no knowledgeable collector or dealer would accept it as genuine without certification by a reputable grading service such as NGC or PCGS.
  20. Welcome to the NGC chat board. When posting a topic on this forum, please ask a question you would like us to answer. Your 1943-S steel Lincoln cent appears to have been "replated" to make it look uncirculated and of little value. I see no evidence in your photos of the coin having been struck by the dies more than once or of any other mint error or anomaly. In over 50 years as a collector, I have never seen the term "double struck plugged dies". Please review the following topic about posting on this forum:
  21. Welcome to the NGC chat board. NGC's policy regarding "crossovers" is as follows: "NGC will not accept CrossOver submissions of coins holdered by companies other than PCGS. These coins may still be submitted to NGC only if they are accompanied by NGC’s Consent to Remove Coin(s) from Holder(s) Form. The coins will be treated by NGC as raw (ungraded) submissions." Coins We Grade | NGC Coin Grading Polices | NGC. I assume that NGC wouldn't retain the ANACS designation of this as a "first strike" coin (whatever that means) or the position in the sequence in which ANACS certified the coin, as NGC would have to take ANACS's word for it. I'm not sure what the "GSA" sticker is but highly doubt that NGC would affix it to their holder. You could post your question on the "Ask NGC/NCS" forum or contact NGC Customer Service.
  22. NGC has a special system, NGC Shipwreck Certification, for grading coins recovered from shipwrecks. See Shipwreck Coin Effect Designation Guide | NGC (ngccoin.com). I'm not sure that such coins can be submitted by anyone other than the company that salvaged the shipwreck and recommend that you contact NGC to determine whether and on what terms your coins could be submitted. I'm baffled as to why you would want to pay the cost of having these coins certified. You already have evidence of their origin and authenticity, and whether they are "details" graded or graded under the NGC "Shipwreck Effect" scale, the result is unlikely to be favorable. Both of the coins in your photos, especially the lower one, exhibit serious corrosion or encrustations. If your only purpose is to place them in holders that make them look like your certified pieces, you can buy holders that look very much like them from various coin supply dealers.
  23. Welcome to the NGC chat board. This forum is for new collectors to ask questions about coins, not to just post photos of them with a comment such as "Miscellaneous Currencies". We would also need clearer, cropped photos of any coins about which you have questions. See the following topic for guidance on how to post on this forum:
  24. The coin could be "Reholdered" for a fee as described here: NGC Services and Fees | NGC (ngccoin.com). As suggested by @Coinbuf, you would have to contact NGC to find out whether the special label is available and on what terms. Unless the scratch interferes substantially with your view of the coin, I suggest leaving it in the original holder.
  25. 1935-S Boone commemorative half dollar (no "1934"), now NGC graded MS 65: