powermad5000

This coin is on its way to no longer existing as a coin.

When trying to determine varieties of any coin, it is necessary to provide clear, fully cropped photos of both sides of the coin to be able to verify any of the markers needed to determine the particular variety. This is very clear in the forum instructions.

Hello and welcome to the forum and the hobby! I hope you find as much enjoyment in it as most of us here do! Cool collection to inherit! Kudos!

Despite the same format as last year, I am quite excited to go to CSNS this year. My game plan will be entirely different as I am looking to acquire something either really excellent, or something difficult to obtain. What that will exactly be is yet undetermined. I have been thinking for months on what I would like to do while I am there and I just cannot decide. I guess I will let what is available and catches my eye be the determination of the what. I am looking for this next piece to be the top selection of my collection. It's been fun to think about all the possibilities though!

Hello and welcome to the forum! While your Bicentennial Quarter looks to have nice surfaces and very little wear for a circulation find, as stated, the high mintage number and the fact that this was the first change to the design since its inception in 1932, many collectors saved pristine specimens of these coins and stored them, sometimes by the roll. This coin does not add any value until it is in uncirculated condition and even then at entry MS grades may only add about twice its face value. It does not gain any type of premium until grades of MS65 which only adds a slight premium. Modest premium goes to grades above that and only superb gem BU specimens of the highest grade gain significant premium as those are sought by collectors for registry competition sets. I save every one of these I get no matter how poor the condition is and have a bag of over 200 of them, but most of them do not look as nice as the one you have. I would keep it in a 2x2 cardboard flip or put it in an album if I were in your shoes.

In order for the members here to give you proper assessments of your posted coins, in the future, please post fully cropped, clear, and properly oriented photos of the coin. We don't need to see the background or most of the holder that the coin sits in. In your posted photos here, the coin is too far away and too small for us to be able to see what may be necessary details of possibly a scarce variety such as if it were a 1918/7 variety. We can only help you properly based on what you provide us in your query. If we get far away photos of poor quality, then our assessments might not actually be accurate because there is something we cannot see or we might miss a critical detail on your coin.

Yes, they are all large date. On which of these do you need an opinion? It probably would be better to post a pic of the one you were looking to get an opinion on in your response rather than to have the members here have to scroll and get it right on which one you are referring to.

I have a small tube of these miniature coins. It's been so long, I don't remember what type they are. I remember buying them roughly 40 years ago and I only looked into the tiny tube one time. If my memory serves me right, the ones I have are actually silver but they are so tiny as far as weight goes, there's not a lot of melt value in that tube. There would be more melt value in a silver Washington quarter. As a kid, I just thought they were neat. When I get a chance, I will share some pics of the tube and one of the mini coins in it. Be patient, I am not sure when I'll get around to it, but I will eventually and return to this thread. They are basically novelty coins.

I was given the roll when I was a kid and started collecting coins by my Grandmother who worked at the First National Bank of Chicago. I kept the roll sealed for nearly 40 years before opening it. They are all the same date and mint. I picked one from the roll to submit and it returned MS 65 RD. I put the rest of the roll in a plastic tube and taped the end shut. That's how it will stay at least until I pass.

The charges are separate but I believe the NCS charges are billed through NGC so that is how NCS gets paid. As stated by @USAuPzlBxBob, you will be able to see these charges come through in your statements NGC sends to your email under the original submission number as well as on the paperwork that gets returned to you when your coins come back.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I would say you have a dryer coin that got stuck in a spot where the reverse was jammed causing that reverse damage but the edge was able to spin wiping out the reeded edge and make the edge a little wider with some additional heat exposure overall as well which would explain the darker coloration on the reverse.

I also sent in an NGC slabbed Morgan with some unattractive toning for NCS conservation and regrade. NCS declined conservation on the grounds that if conserved it would affect its grade negatively and therefore declined conservation. It was not scheduled for grading since they left it in the original slab. I don't watch my submissions like a hawk so I can't tell you in a similar fashion what happened to mine. Not sure why your coin would be scheduled for grading unless it was actually conserved. The NCS turnaround time is stated as such as I could only imagine when they are at full capacity so people don't think it only takes a day or so, and I am sure that turnaround time can be considerably less if there not many coins coming into their system. If it was not conserved they will only charge the $5 fee so if you have any statements showing a charge for only $5 then it was not conserved. It sounds to me though like NCS already turned your coin back to NGC after conservation and it is in the system now to be graded.

Hello and welcome to the forum! The 1922 Peace dollar is one of the higher mintages in the series and therefore is very common. Also, since it was early after the introduction of the series, many collectors obtained and stored these in choice to gem BU and therefore, there are many excellent specimens widely available to collectors at reasonable prices. Your coin exhibits loss of detail from general circulation wear as well as a lot of marks, nicks, and hits, and some deep scratches on the reverse which would be considered as damage, a spot of environmental damage on the eagle, and some rim dings. Overall, your coin would only be considered for purchase by a low ball collector and the offer would only be for its melt value around $20 or so.

While this is a nice pocket change find still retaining its red color, it does show circulation marks and if considered as MS it would be in the low MS range. Despite MS 60 showing in the price guides as $2.50, the reality of its value in the marketplace is considerably less due to its mintage number of 1,051,342,000. When these were released, there were many collectors who stored uncirculated rolls of these, sometimes in hoard amounts. I myself even have a full roll of these in choice BU. Therefore, plenty of choice to gem BU specimens are widely available and easily obtained at very low prices. You could buy one of these in MS 66 RD already in the slab for less than it will cost you to send this to a TPG. End conclusion being I would definitely not submit this cent for grading but rather put it in an album or keep it in a 2x2 cardboard flip.

I am always wondering if people decide to just give up on holding on to stored rolls of these and end up just spending them. I could only imagine some people who put away BU rolls of these when they were first released in the thoughts and hopes that 30-40 years later those rolls would add significant value only to find in todays terms they are really not worth that much. Disappointment setting in on their original plan, they just decide it's not worth the trouble to try to even sell them so they spend them. Excellent finds though!

To the OP, you have gotten answers, but I noted through the responses, nobody touched on your mention/question if anything is "hidden" in the certification number. I think you mean the submission number by this. There is no "secret coding" in the submission number on the slab. It is simply the way NGC keeps track of your coins through their processes at their facility, keeps coins from getting lost, and makes sure the coins you send to them get back to you and not get mixed up and sent to some other collector/submitter.

Only one of them.

What I use to tell on these whether they are large date or small date is not the alignment at the top. To me it easy to tell using the 7. On a large date, the bottom of the 7 extends below the bottom of the zero. On a small date, the bottom of the seven is even with the bottom of the zero. Maybe that makes it easier for you. I think you have two large date 1970 S cents.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I literally only took one second to look at your coin and the crazy shine and the date numerals misshapen and touching the rim told me right there you have a counterfeit coin. While sometimes some of the counterfeits that come across the forum here can be quite deceptive and it takes some looking into to determine from a photo what the OP has, this coin is not one of those. There are outstanding and glaring differences between yours and a genuine example. And no worries really. You came to the right place to have people look at what you have and give you an honest assessment. Most of us here have been at it in the hobby for a long time we are all volunteers here who try to help people.

I am sorry you spent good money to purchase this. It looks like a vise job to me. Seeing as the lettering of the different year cent is backwards and incuse and the lettering on the reverse is also incuse and backwards tells me someone used force to press a different cent into the surface of the host cent. It also looks like someone used the host 1983 cent in the middle between two different cents, one on each side when they crushed them together in the vise. Sadly, this is not an error but is simply mutilation of a cent (actually three because the other cents in the vise used to press the images are typically also ruined). You need to keep in mind just because something "looks different" that it does not automatically mean it is an error. You also have to think when viewing things such as these as to just how could that be produced in the striking of a coin. Being this had two different years of cents involved should have been a huge red flag that what you are seeing did not happen during the striking of the coin. Error collecting is a niche in the hobby and requires much more additional knowledge than just collecting and grading of coins. You need to know all of the minting processes and how coins are made just to be able to begin to understand errors. As it seems you are newer to collecting, I don't recommend searching for error coins until you have basic collecting and grading down including being good at spotting damage, cleaning, and other coin impairments. There are bad sellers everywhere hocking stuff like what you have posted here to separate someone without proper knowledge from their money on a damaged coin. I don't know how much you actually paid and you don't have to tell us, but I sure hope it was not a lot and really hope it was not in the hundreds of dollars (or thousands) as I have found many bad sellers charging these amounts for damaged junk coins and claiming them to be errors. Sorry to see this lesson separated you from good money.

That sure is unusual to find in a roll! I am also surprised it is in such good condition for its age. Excellent find!

Thank you for the better photos. Now that they are not blurry, I am not seeing any form of doubling on obverse of this cent. What are you seeing that makes you think this is a DDO? You might have to provide clear closeups of what you are referring to. I would say if you are seeing some slight form of secondary doubling with the coin in hand, it most surely would be some form of limited strike/mechanical doubling.

This thread got me to thinking, and a long time ago, I made a purchase at a coin shop of the cent I am including in the picture below. I bought this cent because it had a different look to it than the regular copper plated ones I am so used to seeing, and the shop had it in a sleeve with a handwritten tag calling it a "Yellow Jacket". Perhaps this topic is what they were referring to. I labeled the slab with my own tag when it came back because it just looks different. I submitted this straight not thinking it could be a mint error. Now, I might have to dig this out of my SDB and give it another hard look, and maybe resubmit it and see what happens.